SWSC400

Just did an oil change on my sc4, no problem! I read that it would be alot worse, got to the drain plug easy and used a low profile 7qt. catch container from PepBoys Got to the filter from the top and just took out the front bolts and side bolts of the plastic guard underneath and hinged it down a bit to put a small pan to catch any oil from the filter while removing it and thats it Switched to Castrol Syntec and a Fram 7K mi. filter, plan on changing both every 5K. Also did trunk supports (20 min) ....and lastly, the ole water logged drivers headlight ( read about it here, how to remove and drill vent holes ), worked like a champ Dried it out with a hair dryer, put some goop glue along the top edge to help seal it too...all happy and DRY!...............now, I just have the leaking coolant from the sensor to fix, any updated suggestions on that one???

PERRYinLA

Try switching to decaf. And I have yet to hear of any sealant or adhesive (PVC cement) that works on the coolant tank over the long term, so the only permanent fix remains replacement.

Unless the leak is on the actual sensor, in which case you can try removing the sensor and plugging up the hole with a rubber expansion plug. More details if you search, but it sounds like you already have.

SWSC400

Thanks Perry for the input, I may just replace it with a 95 tank and leave out the weak link of the sensor...the 95 tank is 20 bucks cheaper too! No decaf, Budwieser instead!!!

PERRYinLA

Haha....OK Bud, I'll drink to that!

My coolant tank leak is not too severe (just a drop or two each trip), and has not gotten any worse over the past few years, so as long as that remains the case, I'll just live with it, unless I find a used bargain some day (even with $20 off, it's still a triple-digit price!).

SWSC400

Originally Posted by SWSC400
Hey Perry,
I fixed the leaking sensor today! All I had to do is go buy a new O Ring for the sensor ( #18, 15/16ths I.D., 1/8th thickness) at Home Depot, package of ten. But, I also had to slip the old O Ring passed the groove and let it seat right under the lip that seats against the tank and put the new O Ring right below it in the original groove ( 2 O Rings), then just tighten up enough to stop the leak, you can kinda feel it. I also took all that brown gooie stuff around the wires off and cleaned the area with a little carb cleaner and applied fresh silicone across the top where the wires come out. Worked like a Champ .........thought this might been of some help, let me know.....see ya!

PERRYinLA

That brown gooey stuff is awful and hard to get rid of - good to know that carb cleaner might help. I hope your fix does the trick for you, but in my case, when I bought a new o-ring from the dealer, it didn't stop the leak, slow as it was.

On many of our tanks, the problem is not the sensor seal, but rather the development of hairline cracks in that area or nearby. That's why replacement is sometimes the only answer. But in your case, it looks like you dodged a bullet.

Trexus

I just changed my oil, oil filter and air filter on my '96 ES 300. I just hit 245K miles. I purchased the oil filter from Toyota for $3.49 with a coupon. I use part # 90915-YZZD3 which is made in Thailand. It used to be part # 90915-20004 which was made in Japan but they don't make it anymore. Those were really good oil filters. As for the air filter I use part # 17801-03010 which costs $12.95 also with a coupon. I always get a great satisfaction changing my own oil, oil filter and air filter and I saved some money.