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Old 10-18-17, 09:48 PM
  #16  
lexusrus
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Originally Posted by hankinid
Active maintenance can be done at a dealer or an indy shop or by the owner. E.g., if I change the transmission fluid instead of assuming it will last for the life of the truck, will I end up with a better truck at 80 or 90K than someone who believes the atf fluid is "lifetime".



IMO, you're hanging it out there without a pre-purchase inspection by a shop not associated with the deal. In my neck of the woods, it's $100 or so and good insurance.

Yes, as per my post......I'll hire an expert to do what I feel is beyond what I can do.
Old 10-19-17, 04:02 AM
  #17  
amphibia
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Originally Posted by lex97h
I am one of those that dread going to the dealership for routine maintenance such as a simple oil change because every time I bring it in, I would get some kind of damage such as scratches, dings and technician loosing a bolt or cross threading it.

I know my ways around cars so I can handle somethings like fluid changes and repairs.

But the question remains is, if I should decide to sell the vehicle in the future would anyone be afraid to purchase it because it has no service history?

To me if the truck is clean even though it has no service history I would be willing to take a gamble on it. Then again I am a mechanic by trade.

What is everyone's thought on this?

Take a picture or keep a record of all the oils/filters/grease guns/torque wrench/receipts. These are more meaningful. Those who dare to buy this truck used definitely know what matters.

Also if you do keep a good maintenance schedule, you can certainly rent/buy a cylinder compression tool to run a compression test on every cylinder. Attach these pics when you list it online for sell. Who can refuse a picture set of 8 perfect compression readings.
Old 10-19-17, 04:49 AM
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Or invite the potential buyer to accompany him/her to the shop of his/her choice to get it checked out.

Originally Posted by amphibia
Take a picture or keep a record of all the oils/filters/grease guns/torque wrench/receipts. These are more meaningful. Those who dare to buy this truck used definitely know what matters.

Also if you do keep a good maintenance schedule, you can certainly rent/buy a cylinder compression tool to run a compression test on every cylinder. Attach these pics when you list it online for sell. Who can refuse a picture set of 8 perfect compression readings.
Old 10-19-17, 09:47 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by amphibia
Take a picture or keep a record of all the oils/filters/grease guns/torque wrench/receipts. These are more meaningful. Those who dare to buy this truck used definitely know what matters.

Also if you do keep a good maintenance schedule, you can certainly rent/buy a cylinder compression tool to run a compression test on every cylinder. Attach these pics when you list it online for sell. Who can refuse a picture set of 8 perfect compression readings.
Great ideas. I went with a leak-down (dynamic compression) tester v. the regular tool.


Originally Posted by lexusrus
Or invite the potential buyer to accompany him/her to the shop of his/her choice to get it checked out.
When I buy a used vehicle, it gets checked by a shop in addition to checking records. Last purchase was the '13 Land Cruiser back in August, 2015. I purchased that truck from a Porsche / Audi dealer about an hour away by air. All records showed service by Lexus dealers with no recommended services declined by the original owner. That said, I drove her home that night and scheduled a post-purchase inspection at LTS Motors in Boise. The PPI showed no issues whatsoever.

Last edited by hankinid; 10-19-17 at 12:24 PM.
Old 10-19-17, 10:03 AM
  #20  
lex97h
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Originally Posted by hankinid
Great ideas. I went with a leak-down (dynamic compression) tester v. the regular tool.



When I buy a used vehicle, it gets checked by a shop in addition to checking records. Last purchase was the '13 Land Cruiser back in August, 2015. I purchased that truck from a Porsche / Audi dealer about an hour away by air. All records showed service by Lexus dealers with no recommended services declined by the original owner. That said, I drover her home that night and scheduled a post-purchase inspection at LTS Motors in Boise. The PPI showed no issues whatsoever.
So assuming that the truck had no service records but looks clean, would you have hesitated to make the purchase that night? Or would you have it checked out at a local lexus dealership or indy shop first before making the purchase?

To me, I've made purchases of vehicles without service history as long as it doesn't appear to be neglected or abused. Funny thing is I've purchased a brand new Lexus IS300 back in 2002 from a Lexus dealer and two years later found out it had paint work on it. Lol
Old 10-19-17, 12:35 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by lex97h
So assuming that the truck had no service records but looks clean, would you have hesitated to make the purchase that night? Or would you have it checked out at a local lexus dealership or indy shop first before making the purchase?

To me, I've made purchases of vehicles without service history as long as it doesn't appear to be neglected or abused. Funny thing is I've purchased a brand new Lexus IS300 back in 2002 from a Lexus dealer and two years later found out it had paint work on it. Lol
Excellent question. My answer...I'd have it checked out prior to purchase. There's always another right around the corner, but since Toyota imports very few to the north American market, patience and willingness to travel, not to mention pre-arranged funding, are all requirements if you are purchasing a used 200.

Frame and / or body work may or may not show up on a Carfax or similar. I can take either the Cruiser or LX to virtually any shop not affiliated with Toyota, pay cash, and never see a record other than on my AMEX bill. No secrets there. That, again, is why I recommend an inspection by a shop not connected with any seller, and that would include a Lexus or Toyota dealer. I would have a hard time believing that a dealer would honestly divulge a beat-to-death mechanical POS if the cosmetics look good. Finally, too much money at stake if you do end up with a dog.
Old 10-20-17, 04:49 AM
  #22  
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Several years ago I flew to Chicago during the dead of the winter in January to buy an MB SLK55 AMG hardtop convertible. I was tracking this particular car via it's VIN for at least three months. Initially it was first put on for sale as a "certified MB car" at a legit MB dealership late fall. I even called and verified everything I could over the phone, including asking them to send me a pic of the odo. But the price was not right initially. So I did not go for it. Then it disappeared from that MB dealership and showed up at an independent high end car dealer that sold multiple high end brands (but not officially connected to any one if them as a dealership). There were used Lambo, Ferrari, Bentley, Aston Martin, Jags, MB, Porsche, and etc (not too many Japanese brands though). All well polished. So I checked mileage on the odo which did not increase but a few miles. Keep in mind in January it is cold and had SNOW!! I FLEW in and test drove and asked them put it on the lift and I checked it out (I knew enough about what to look for since I had owned MB's SLK hardtop convertibles before and did not see anything out of ordinary). Since it was dead in the harsh winter in Chicago.........who is gonna buy a convertible in the winter in Chicago?? Usually in the north people has two sets of cars for the two extreme seasons. There was absolutely NO RUST after I removed the plastic panels while the car was up on the lift. If they did not allow me to remove the plastic panels I'll ask them to remove them. If still a no go, then I'll just kindly thank them and leave. The vehicle was still under OEM WARRANTY for a substantial amount of time and mileage. So I took a risk and paid the guy and drove off. Never regret it. Knock on wood, all good to this day!!!

You just need to do your homework.

Originally Posted by lex97h
So assuming that the truck had no service records but looks clean, would you have hesitated to make the purchase that night? Or would you have it checked out at a local lexus dealership or indy shop first before making the purchase?

To me, I've made purchases of vehicles without service history as long as it doesn't appear to be neglected or abused. Funny thing is I've purchased a brand new Lexus IS300 back in 2002 from a Lexus dealer and two years later found out it had paint work on it. Lol
Old 01-24-18, 05:41 AM
  #23  
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Could someone here please post when all the fluids should be changed in a 2011 LX570 or other LX models? eg oil,coolant,brake fluids ,transmission,shocks(AHC),steering,differential and transfer case.
The manual is not precise enough. Also why wait 100K for tranny fluid when it produces so much heat?

Last edited by ships10; 01-24-18 at 12:56 PM.
Old 01-24-18, 12:35 PM
  #24  
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Brake fluid 30,000 miles or three years whichever comes first. Coolant 100,000 miles for the first change then every 50,000 that’s for super long life fluid. Oil every 5k or 6 month for 2011 but after that they changed it in 2013 to 10,000 miles per year 0W 20 synthetic. Front and rear differential and transfer case should be every 60,000 miles. AVS/AHC fluid change every 60,000 miles. Transmission supposedly never needs to be changed but it should be changed at least 100,000 miles
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Old 01-24-18, 12:39 PM
  #25  
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I also have them grease zerts on the drivetrain every oil change there’s like six of them they should also retorq the driveline by asking for this to be done every oil and filter change I figure they probably get it done every third at least
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Old 01-24-18, 01:07 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Max707
Brake fluid 30,000 miles or three years whichever comes first. Coolant 100,000 miles for the first change then every 50,000 that’s for super long life fluid. Oil every 5k or 6 month for 2011 but after that they changed it in 2013 to 10,000 miles per year 0W 20 synthetic. Front and rear differential and transfer case should be every 60,000 miles. AVS/AHC fluid change every 60,000 miles. Transmission supposedly never needs to be changed but it should be changed at least 100,000 miles
Thanks ....and power steering? I wonder why the transmission fluid does not need to be changed ? After all it’s a fluid that will undergo natural degradation and lose its viscosity especially with heat production.Is the 5K oil change with full synthetic or regular oil?I change mine every 6K with full synthetic .The manual says 0W20 but what’s wrong with 5W30? I’ve tried both with no noticeable change in gas mileage or performance. I live in the Chicago area and no issues when it’s cold and frigid when I’ve used 5W30 oil or am I setting myself up for engine trouble down the road ? I have over 76K on the LX.

Last edited by ships10; 02-26-18 at 07:16 PM.
Old 01-24-18, 02:33 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Max707
Brake fluid 30,000 miles or three years whichever comes first. Coolant 100,000 miles for the first change then every 50,000 that’s for super long life fluid. Oil every 5k or 6 month for 2011 but after that they changed it in 2013 to 10,000 miles per year 0W 20 synthetic. Front and rear differential and transfer case should be every 60,000 miles. AVS/AHC fluid change every 60,000 miles. Transmission supposedly never needs to be changed but it should be changed at least 100,000 miles
I tend to go by time v. mileage. So, SLLC coolant every two years. Oil every 6 months, M1 extended mileage and TRD filter. Diffs and transfer case every 2 years with M1 75W90. AHC every 2 years with Toyota AHC fluid ONLY.

Trans every 2 years...with the operative word "supposedly". 2-3 months ago Amazon had Toyota WS ATF for $6 per quart...I ordered a bunch. Set an alert on Amazon and you may be pleasantly surprised. Valvoline "Max Life" synthetic also meets Toyota's WS spec with no issues reported on mud from users.


Originally Posted by Max707
I also have them grease zerts on the drivetrain every oil change there’s like six of them they should also retorq the driveline by asking for this to be done every oil and filter change I figure they probably get it done every third at least
I do the driveshafts every oil change.


Originally Posted by ships10
Thanks ....and power steering? I wonder why the transmission fluid does not need to be changed ? After all it’s a fluid that will undergo natural degradation and lose its viscosity especially with heat production.Is the 5K oil change with full synthetic or regular oil?I change mine every 6K with full synthetic .The manual says 0W20 but what’s wrong with 5W30? I’ve tried both with no noticeable change in gas mileage or performance. I live in the Chicago area and no issues when it’s cold and frigid when I’ve used 5W30 oil or am I setting,shelf up for engine trouble down the road ? I have a over 76K on the LX.
Power steering once a year, M1 synthetic ATF.

The ATF fluid definitely NEEDS to be changed for the reasons you described.

For engine oil, I use 0W20 with the late fall change and 5W-30 for the spring change. Mobil 1 extended mileage...wait for Walmart to put it on sale.

heh

Steve
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Old 01-24-18, 02:34 PM
  #28  
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Power steering 60k. All kinds of threads on oil. Toyota/Lexus recommends 0w20 synthetic for your LX. I change it every 5k but I'm sure 10k would not hurt anything since that is what Lexus now recommends.
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Old 01-24-18, 03:23 PM
  #29  
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are spark plugs 100k item as well?
Old 01-24-18, 08:38 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by pizdets17
are spark plugs 100k item as well?
I think the owners manual show 120k miles


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