Max707

Change belt and pump. Stupid not too.

jimaleg

the water pump was just barely leaking so I replaced the water pump too! 3 years later I'm at 90K. It's a 2003.

CSG

I recently (at about 92k) had the 90k service. The dealer advised me before hand that changing the water pump at that time was often recommended for the reasons others have outlined in this thread. However, once they got into it, they called and said they felt the water pump was fine. No signs of leaking or corrosion so we ended up not doing it. Did get front brakes though.

hankinid

So in effect, the dealer is saying it's more likely for your existing pump to get to 180K without leaking, v. using a new pump for the next 90K.

Replacing the water pump by itself at a dealer will kill you with labor; replacing the pump during a timing belt change is part of the tb labor, as you need to remove / replace the pump as part of the job. For the ~$125 part charge on the pump, I'd suggest a new pump should be a no-brainer.

Steve

toddmorr

by the way, a leaking water pump isn't necessarily a problem. They are designed to weep very slightly

hankinid

[QUOTE=toddmorr;9155065]by the way, a leaking water pump isn't necessarily a problem. They are designed to weep veryslightly./QUOTE]

This is common on a lot of different vehicles, not just the 100. When changing the timing belt, change everything within gunshot that has to come out anyway- water pump, acc belts, etc.

The cost to replace is in labor, as you say, so to replace this stuff while doing the TB is minimal added expense and peace of mind PM. The last thing you want is to change the TB and have your water pump go out 10K miles later...imho.

As far as I've ever been told the weep hole is a direct passage to the w/p front seal. If you have coolant coming out of the weep hole the seal is leaking. The extent of the leak or coolant trail is always arguable. 100- series don't always leak out the weep hole, I've seen many leak on the other side of the pump where it mates to the block. Got to take it off to fix, might as well put a new one on.

two4fun111

Where'd you score the free labor?

hankinid

Read post #21...

The labor is free as the H2O pump is one of the things that needs to be removed to get to the timing belt. I'd also replace the thermostat.

Other pieces that need to be checked during the TB replacement include the crank seal, cam seals, TB tensioner and the serp belt tensioner and idler if needed.

Now would also be a good time to R&R the heater hose plastic T's...toward the rear of the engine. These tend to degrade, rot, and break over time...not a matter of "if", but "when"...and you've been the "when" category". They're about $7 each. Bulletproof fix is to get brass "Pex" fittings at HD or Lowes and use them to replace the plastic T's.

Take a look at radiator hoses as they're yet again stuff that needs to be removed to get to the TB, and do not forget the fan clutch.

Everything above, except the heater hose T's, are free labor...they need to be unbolted to get to the timing belt. The T's are far easier to access during the TB job v. after...coolant has been drained, etc.

Nothing like a good necro thread.

Steve

hankinid

Our '01 LX had her timing belt and water pump replaced yesterday...no issues whatsoever. Front rotors and pads were changed, brake system including the ABS valving was bled with DOT 5.1.
Front wheel and spindle bearings were re-lubed, and AHC pressures checked-out all as they should be.

I'll change all fluids when she gets home and she'll be ready for another 90K.