dctex

Step 28:
I just took of those two bolts on the driver side and that was it.



Step 29-31:
There are two 12mm bolts in the front of the car holding the radiator in place. Take those off and be sure to actually remove the grommet completely from both sides. You'll put them back on the new radiator.








That's where I stopped snapping pics. Just reverse the steps and your all done. Then fill it in up with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and this stuff. 2 of Toyota Genuine Fluid 00272-1LLAC-01 Long Life Coolant - 1 Gallon. I ordered 2 gallons from amazon for about $34 bucks free shipping. You just run the car with the heater on and keep filling it up until it doesn't take anymore and the heater is blowing hot air. I also filled the overflow with distilled water just in case and will check it in a few days to see if I need to add more.

Took it for a spin and it ran like a top!

Good luck... oh and I take no responsibility for anyone following my lazy ***!

dctex

After a week or so I did a follow up inspection and everything seems fine with the replacement work. I noticed however in the back of the engine area there was radiator residue. I hadn't noticed this when I did the replacement work. The t fitting that runs the fluid for the heater is probably cracked. I went ahead and ordered a new t fitting (87248-60460) from toyotaparts.com. I replace the hose as well. Anyways, I just wanted to add this since its near the back of the engine and just to have stumbled across it. Would have been nice to have noticed when I was doing the radiator replacement. When you have over 200k on a car this is a pretty cheap ($8) preventive maintenance item to avoid future issues.
Here is a pic of what it looks like with a small leak.

hankinid

Just a few observations on what I've read so far...

If you're draining the engine to replace the coolant, drain the radiator first, then BOTH block drains. The passenger-side is somewhat tricky to get to, so use a 10mm socket with a u-joint or wobble extension. Placing a foot or so of clear plastic tubing (HD or Lowe's) on the drain nipple on the engine block drains and have a few empty plastic milk jugs or similar.

I'm not sure why anyone's needing to mix coolant...just get Toyota Super Long-Life Coolant...it's pre-mixed and ready to roll out of the jug.

NO need to remove the fan to remove the radiator.

Heater hose T's have a rep of failing, especially the one more toward the centerline of the truck...that's the hot side from the engine to the heater.

Pex T's (HD or Lowe's) are brass and eliminate the T's as possible points of failure.

The heater is ON at ALL times regardless of where you set the temp...motorized baffles ("doors") simply balance hot v. cold air to whatever you've set the temp. O-rings on the metal tubes going from the T's to the engine should also be replaced, as long as you're "in there".

Steve

Sunni

It less than 2 hours labor, & most definitely change the thermostat while your in there. The thermostat & gasket together is less than $20 dollars.