Max707

Price quoted by local Lexus dealer for front and rear diff's and transfer case lube change. $200. Price they are quoting for 60K mile service $540, less the front wheel bearing repack which the manual calls for. Don't know why they left that out???

V8_Fan

What year LX? If its 98-03, the service is the same. If '04+, you don't need to change the coolant or transmission fluid. What do they exactly do for their 60K service? I can't tell you if that's a good price w/o knowing what they do. For a '98-03 vehicle they should

-repack front wheel bearings
-replace engine oil/oil filter
-replace engine coolant w/ Toyota red ($18/gal vs. $5 for cheapo green)
-replace engine air filter
-replace cabin air filters (2 of them)
-replace front/rear diff & t-case fluids
-replace ATF w/ toyota ATF (all 12 qts w/ the machine, not a 3 qt drain & fill)
-replace brake fluid
-replace AHC fluid
-lube front/rear driveshafts
-retorque undercarriage bolts
-inspect the major stuff (ball joints, steering linkages, suspension, f/r brakes, e-brake cable [#clicks])
-cross rotate tires

For all of this, I'd say $1100 is a good price. Chances are, your dealer isn't doing all of this for $540. My guess is they are doing the barebones service (oil change ($50), engine air filter ($30), coolant ($100), cabin filters ($120), brake fluid ($120), AHC fluid ($120), tire rotation ($20), + inspections ($50-100?).) Add $300-350 for the front wheel bearing repack, $200 for the diff/t-case fluids, plus $150-220 for the ATF exchange. Now you're up to about $1400.

aedgington

Damn... and I thought 90K was the high dollar service...

Max707

They do the following for the $540- on the 2004 since it doesn't need the coolant change or the transmission serviced.

-replace engine oil/oil filter
-replace engine air filter
-replace cabin air filters (2 of them)
-replace brake fluid
-replace AHC fluid
-replace PCV
-clean fuel injection
-lube front/rear driveshafts
-retorque undercarriage bolts
-inspect the major stuff (ball joints, steering linkages, suspension, f/r brakes, e-brake cable [#clicks])
-rotate tires

Check front wheel bearings and if they need to be repacked that is another $550.

So to do what Lexus recommends it will cost $1090 that includes the wheel bearing repack. I called the local Toyota dealer to get a price on the front wheel bearing repack and the quoted $510 so the Lexus dealer is close at $550. When it comes time to have it done I will have them do their 60K service and then make another appt. to have the front wheel bearings repacked. That way I get them concentrating on both services and I will get the use of a loaner car for two different days (their gas) and I will get two free car washs. I'm a little over 1 year away from needing the 60K mile service done but I thought it would be interesting to see what they charge. I did the diff's and the transfer case the other day so they are good to go for another 45K miles.

V8_Fan

For what they do, that's a fair price. Personally, I don't see why they replace the PCV unless the current one is clogged and you don't need a fuel injector cleaning at 60K mi unless you ran el-cheapo brand gas. I had my '86 4runner's valve train overhauled at 125K mi back in '02 to install a new timing chain, TRD cam, rockers for the new cam, valve seals/guides, etc. and it didn't need fuel injector cleaning. This vehicle has been in the family since new, now has 199K mi. The injectors have never been cleaned, but I've run primarily chevron 91 gas from 93K-175K mi (now use chevron 89). I avoid Arco and no-name stuff. I had the fuel filter changed at 145K, but noticed no difference after...can ran fine before and after. Also tried the Redline fuel conditioner...also no difference. IMHO, injector service at 60K mi is an unnecessary expenditure. Lexus dealer here charges $350 for a front wheel bearing repack. I bought the parts on discount for $40, lucked out and an ex-lexus tech at the toyota dealer did the repack ($196 labor). For me, $200 for labor is borderline, $300 too much. $500 is crazy!

90K service is the same as the 60K plus the timing belt and water pump. Make sure you check the serpentine belt. Small lateral cracks on the ribbed side are okay, but once you see chunks of rubber missing, replace it. Mine was replaced at 45k, as the heat here in AZ takes a toll on rubber. Also, you might want to change the radiator hoses at 90K since you have to pull the radiator out anyways. Also, use the super long life coolant (pre-mixed toyota red) at 90K so you won't have to change the coolant until 150K or longer. Otherwise, if you use the long life toyota red, you have to change it at 120K. I'll probably stretch my 90K service to 95K and have the dealer do a full inspection since the warranty runs out at 100K. This way, if anything needs replacing under warranty, they can do it then.

Max707

I agree on the fuel system cleaning, I use only Top Tier rated gas, in my area that is Conoco and Quicktrip. Since mine is a 2004 I will continue with the SLL antifreeze when I get to the 90K service. I agree the $550 front wheelbearing repack is nuts??? I had it done with my 1999 LC and it cost $250 in SW Utah, is the 2003+ harder to do???

V8_Fan

No, the repack is exactly the same thing. Prices just differ wildly. $250 is a good price. I think that's about what it would cost here at the toyota dealer ($196 labor plus parts [I brought my own, but list probably would have been $60 for the 2 oil seals, 2 lock washers, 2 flange gaskets]). In Seattle, the toyota dealer charged $350 for a 14 yr old 4runner! I've done it twice on my 4runner (same as on the LC, just there's a bolt on the end of the axle instead of a c-clip, has manual locking hub in place of the full-time 4wd drive flange, and torques are different, parts are smaller & a few bucks cheaper) and have to say it's a royal PITA. Parts are cheap, but it's all labor.

IMHO, $200 labor isn't that bad considering it's about a 3.5+ hr job of dirty labor, plus lots of parts to remove/reassemble. Same goes for replacing front rotors. You have to do the same work to remove the hub since the rotor is bolted to the hub (the inner bearing is on the inside of the hub). So if any of you ever get front rotors replaced, try to have it done at the 30k/60k/90k mi interval and pay the extra $40 for 2 inner bearing oil seals and have the tech repack the inner bearing (he already has to repack the outer bearing to reinstall the rotor). Then you won't have to get it done again at the 30/60/90K service.

Max707

Good info Jim, the Lexus dealer charges $107 per hour labor so I now see how they get to the $550 price. How much are new rotors? Seems like if they wear much at all that if the price is right for the part it was be a good time to put on new pads and rotors? Mine shows it had the repack done at 30K miles and since I have the 3 year 100K mile bumper to bumper Lexus CPO warranty it might be a good idea for me to just do the Lexus dealer 60K that does not include the repack but does include an inspection. That way I would see how the pads and rotors were looking and then maybe based on wear have the repack done at say 70-80K with new rotors and pads??? I'm covered by the warranty to 100K if anything was over looked since I used the local (selling) Lexus dealers recommended services

V8_Fan

I haven't priced the rotors myself, but the toyota service manager was claiming they were like $300-400 each list price. You can buy them on discount from Cruiser Dan at American Toyota in Albuquerque (he's a regular on ih8mud.com). At 57.7K mi right now, my rotors are almost new in thickness, but the fronts grab a tiny bit. As I don't believe in turning the rotors, I'll just wait until 90K and put on some slotted aftermarket rotors (have had good luck w/ the Powerslot slotted rotors on my '86 4runner...installed them in '02 at 130K mi, right now have 199K mi, no sign of wear, rotors are still true and brake very well. The rotors are actually brembo blanks that are slotted afterwards). Aftermarket rotors like the Powerslots or DBA's are around $110-130 each. I wouldn't get the cross-drilled...some are prone to cracking around the holes, plus you lose too much surface area. Slotting is a better alternative.