marylandlp

Replacing the shocks is a relatively straight forward process if you follow the steps below. The job can be done without special tools except for the tie rod end remover. I took the struts to a garage and had them install the new shocks. Others have done the replacement themselves. I found it too cumbersome for one person to hold the strut and compress the spring .The garage charged me $50/side.t was well worth the $110.00.
1. Loosen the lug nuts
2. Jack up the vehicle
3. Place a jack stand under the frame
4. Remove the wheel, caliper, rotor and dust shield.
5. Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using the tie rod remover
6. Turn the steering wheel in the direction opposite to the side you are working on.eg. right wheel (turn wheel all the way counterclockwise).By doing so, you will be retracting the rubber boot on the inner tie rod enabling you to remove the bolt holding the front no.2 suspension lower control arm to the body frame..
7. Remove the bolt that attaches the lower strut to the suspension lower arm assembly.
8 .Remove the three nuts in the engine compartment holding the strut in place.
9. Disconnect the electrical wiring that will interfere with sliding the strut out. Slide the strut out and replace the shock or take it to a garage to have it done.
10. Reassemble in reverse order
11. Final torque readings
a, bolt at bottom of strut—108 n-m
b. 3 nuts on top of strut-67n-m
c. bolt attaching lower control arm to frame—145 n-m
d. tie rod end-60 n-m
e. caliper-135 n-m
f. lug bolts-103 ft-lbs
While you have the struts out, inspect the bushings and rubber tie rod sleeves. Also measure the thickness of the pads to determine whether they need replacement.

roadfrog

What caused you to replace the shocks? Symptoms? Are you planning on doing the rear shocks as well?

Tee

Added ths thread to the FAQ sticky, thank you for your contribution to the LS family!

is150

iTrader: (10)

Any pics of steps 5-6? This is the step that will stump some guys.

marylandlp

I had cupping on the l/r sides of both front tires.At present,I don't plan to do the rears.

Doublebase

Excellent diagnosis of the causes of tire cupping, usually it is the shocks doing this. When the shock part of the strut goes, it has an impossible time controlling the spring, causing the tire to scuff and bounce uncontrollably on the pavement. It's not the only cause, but it is definitely a leading cause.

The front end of the LS460 looks pretty easy to work on (if it's rear wheel drive)...but hopefully I won't have to be doing that any time soon.

lbintab

iTrader: (1)

Also a leaking strut is also a symptom. The front will all eventually fail. The rears will probably last almost the life of the car.

marylandlp

Unfortunately,I didn't take any pictures.However,if you Google "DIY tie rod end removal" you will get several hits that show you how to do it.It's pretty easy after you have watched the clip.

johnbros01

Great - I have been trying to do my Front Struts and I have gotten all kind of suggestions that I didn't see as reasonable. Its is apparent that I need to remove the bolt in the Lower arm but I couldn't see how to remove it - DAH - turn the wheel. Thanks

R Z

Great post. Just curious as to what year is your LS.

johnbros01

Sorry - Just finished front struts - my LS460 is a 2008 base. To replace them I took the Arm bolt out after turning the wheel as you suggested - Breeze to remove, then I removed the Stabilizer Link bolts and pulled one side out so the arm could drop. Then lowered the arm and pulled the Strut out. When I replaced, I had to use a Mirror and a 3/8 6" extension to line up the bolt so it would go in without using a hammer, then had to screw it in to get it all the way through, but the Alignment was fine and strut job did not take as long as I had expected. I couldn't find a torque specification on the arm bolt, link nor the Strut so I used 100 ft lbs on those under the car and about 75 on the upper three bolts. I found this by putting the adjustment on the torque wrench to 60, then stopping the extraction when it clicked until I finally took it off at about 100 without any click of the wrench. Crude, but better than nothing.

roadfrog

Here's the specs:

LILEVO

iTrader: (1)

I just replaced the front air strut on my 2007. You really don't need to do any of the above. It only took 15 minutes or so. You unbolt the strut then unbolt bolt upper control arms from the knuckle assembly. The strut comes right out.

diamente

I don't understand why people had to remove brake calipers, etc. I could understand upper control arms but there should be room to slide out the strut. My problem is I can't remove the stuck lower strut assembly bolt. It's number 2 in the diagram. I am going to use heat to loosen the nut. I did put in a bunch of kroil oil. My bolt is kinda stripped. I am going to home depot to pick up the bolt.

https://www.mylparts.com/v-2007-lexu...and-components

MidwestLS

Can anyone share tips on replacing the fronts on an AWD car? The lower shock mount is different, it curves to accommodate the drive axle.
it seems like removing the outer tie rod end from the knuckle will make enough room to remove the shock and spring, but I’m a little worried about getting the stud for the lower shock mount back through the eye in the knuckle. Will I have to disconnect the upper control arms to pull the knuckle “down” far enough to push the stud through and seat it properly? I had the upper control arms loose and nothing really wanted to drop with the shock and spring in place.