EDU: Rear Seat Removal (non-reclining)
06-03-12, 03:37 PM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
EDU: Rear Seat Removal (non-reclining)
My goal was to remove the factory sub.
Items needed:
12mm and 14mm socket
1 ~ 3 " socket extension will help.
towel or rag
To get started, move the front seats all the way forward.
The lower part of the seat is held in place with three clips, noted with the red arrows. You can lift the seat a little to see the clips. I grabbed the seat right at the clips and pulled up.
Once you have the seat unclipped, you will now want to disconnect the heated seats. There is a plug on each side of the seat.
With the seat completely disconnected, you can remove the seat from the car.
The lower part of the seat back is secured with three bolts. One on each side and one in the middle.
Next I removed the seat belt buckles on both sides (extension comes in handy).
The ski pass through now needs to be removed. The pass through is secured with a clip on each side, closer to the top. I reached into the pass through and pulled out.
Now loosen the nut indicated here.
Disconnect this little plug.
Here I put down a rag to protect the seat from the exposed bolts.
To get the seat disconnected, you will want to lift the seat up and out. If you want to get the seat back out, you will want to disconnect the seat belts. I just need to gain access to the sub, so I left the belts connected.
The white plastic clips flip open, and it wil help to remove the child seat clip retainer covers. After this, I was able to access the four bolts holding the sub in place.
The factory sub is
.
Items needed:
12mm and 14mm socket
1 ~ 3 " socket extension will help.
towel or rag
To get started, move the front seats all the way forward.
The lower part of the seat is held in place with three clips, noted with the red arrows. You can lift the seat a little to see the clips. I grabbed the seat right at the clips and pulled up.
Once you have the seat unclipped, you will now want to disconnect the heated seats. There is a plug on each side of the seat.
With the seat completely disconnected, you can remove the seat from the car.
The lower part of the seat back is secured with three bolts. One on each side and one in the middle.
Next I removed the seat belt buckles on both sides (extension comes in handy).
The ski pass through now needs to be removed. The pass through is secured with a clip on each side, closer to the top. I reached into the pass through and pulled out.
Now loosen the nut indicated here.
Disconnect this little plug.
Here I put down a rag to protect the seat from the exposed bolts.
To get the seat disconnected, you will want to lift the seat up and out. If you want to get the seat back out, you will want to disconnect the seat belts. I just need to gain access to the sub, so I left the belts connected.
The white plastic clips flip open, and it wil help to remove the child seat clip retainer covers. After this, I was able to access the four bolts holding the sub in place.
The factory sub is
.
The following 2 users liked this post by ehaze:
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06-03-12, 05:10 PM
#5
Driver
Thread Starter
Trending Topics
06-03-12, 09:09 PM
#8
Lexus Champion
Do you mind sharing your audio system components? I tried to remove the seats on my own when I was installing my springs and I ended up calling a friend to he me out because of some frozen bolts. It was a pain in the *** job to do. I really want to upgrade my system, but I want a professional to do it since I feel unmatched for the task. I assume you have the premium system as well, correct? Great DIY btw.
06-04-12, 04:02 AM
#9
Driver
Thread Starter
Ran 0 gauge from battery back.
The only new speak wire ran to the tweeters or mids, not sure why.
The rack serves its purpose, but I'm talking to someone about having redone.
Large pic of the rack mess: Link
system:
cache coe 6 (line converter and remote gain)
morel hybrid ovation 6 (tweeters and drivers)
morel cdm 88 (mids)
Accuset MX-33.4E (3-way crossover)
morel ultimo 12 (sub)
zapco dc 1000.4 (fronts)
zapco dc 1100.1 (sub)
Dynamat on all the doors and rear deck.
Removed the center channel speaker and I'm debating buying a single mid to replace it.
The only new speak wire ran to the tweeters or mids, not sure why.
The rack serves its purpose, but I'm talking to someone about having redone.
Large pic of the rack mess: Link
system:
cache coe 6 (line converter and remote gain)
morel hybrid ovation 6 (tweeters and drivers)
morel cdm 88 (mids)
Accuset MX-33.4E (3-way crossover)
morel ultimo 12 (sub)
zapco dc 1000.4 (fronts)
zapco dc 1100.1 (sub)
Dynamat on all the doors and rear deck.
Removed the center channel speaker and I'm debating buying a single mid to replace it.
06-05-12, 10:04 AM
#14
Lead Lap
Ran 0 gauge from battery back.
The only new speak wire ran to the tweeters or mids, not sure why.
The rack serves its purpose, but I'm talking to someone about having redone.
Large pic of the rack mess: Link
system:
cache coe 6 (line converter and remote gain)
morel hybrid ovation 6 (tweeters and drivers)
morel cdm 88 (mids)
Accuset MX-33.4E (3-way crossover)
morel ultimo 12 (sub)
zapco dc 1000.4 (fronts)
zapco dc 1100.1 (sub)
Dynamat on all the doors and rear deck.
Removed the center channel speaker and I'm debating buying a single mid to replace it.
The only new speak wire ran to the tweeters or mids, not sure why.
The rack serves its purpose, but I'm talking to someone about having redone.
Large pic of the rack mess: Link
system:
cache coe 6 (line converter and remote gain)
morel hybrid ovation 6 (tweeters and drivers)
morel cdm 88 (mids)
Accuset MX-33.4E (3-way crossover)
morel ultimo 12 (sub)
zapco dc 1000.4 (fronts)
zapco dc 1100.1 (sub)
Dynamat on all the doors and rear deck.
Removed the center channel speaker and I'm debating buying a single mid to replace it.
Couple questions - If you don't mind sharing these:
1) What type of music do you listen to ?
2) Do you normally listen to MP3's, CD's, XM or ?
3) In GENERAL, about what the total expense for this upgrade - rough number (incl labor) ?
4) Are you REALLY satisfied with the results, or less so ?
I am interested in doing something along these lines myself, and that is why I asked these questions. I wanted to see if we had similar tastes or not.
Many Thanks (in advance), Mikey Lulejian - Lake Oconee, GA
06-05-12, 12:07 PM
#15
Driver
Thread Starter
1) What type of music do you listen to ?
Currently in the car: Johnny Cash, Lil Wayne, Tool, Supertramp, Radiohead, The Black Keys, Rolling Stones, and Marley.
2) Do you normally listen to MP3's, CD's, XM or ?
CD's mostly wav files (320 kbps ?). I have a Grom device in the car but it needs to be fixed. Once fixed, I'll add a small hard drive full of music.
3) In GENERAL, about what the total expense for this upgrade - rough number (incl labor) ?
Over five grand, easy. (read below)
4) Are you REALLY satisfied with the results, or less so ?
The first week, real happy with the sound!
I'm going back into the shop tomorrow to have the system re-tuned. Delicate balancing act dealing with the factory head unit, line converter, and amps.
Yes, this is a grip of cash to spend on audio stuff, but it's not a one time expense. All of the gear will be removed before I ever list the car for sale. So, the next car will more or less have the same gear.
And yes, you can build a good system for 1/2 the money I have invested in mine.
Currently in the car: Johnny Cash, Lil Wayne, Tool, Supertramp, Radiohead, The Black Keys, Rolling Stones, and Marley.
2) Do you normally listen to MP3's, CD's, XM or ?
CD's mostly wav files (320 kbps ?). I have a Grom device in the car but it needs to be fixed. Once fixed, I'll add a small hard drive full of music.
3) In GENERAL, about what the total expense for this upgrade - rough number (incl labor) ?
Over five grand, easy. (read below)
4) Are you REALLY satisfied with the results, or less so ?
The first week, real happy with the sound!
I'm going back into the shop tomorrow to have the system re-tuned. Delicate balancing act dealing with the factory head unit, line converter, and amps.
Yes, this is a grip of cash to spend on audio stuff, but it's not a one time expense. All of the gear will be removed before I ever list the car for sale. So, the next car will more or less have the same gear.
And yes, you can build a good system for 1/2 the money I have invested in mine.