Tune up tomorrow
02-01-14, 03:10 AM
#16
I am pretty sure the iridium power do not have the same longevity as the standard long life iridium. Thats fine though you will have had some practice for the second time around.
02-01-14, 11:58 AM
#18
That's interesting wisc. I did not know that.
Just an update, I did pull one plug today just to take a look at it. They are NGK iridium's and they look in pretty good condition considering. I decided to wait as it is supposed to rain and I did not want to get 1/2 way. Anyway, it's pretty straight forward.
The only problem I was having with the plug I pulled is the spark plug puller not wanting to come off the plug and staying in the tube. This was a real pain to deal with. Must be a easy solution for this.
Just an update, I did pull one plug today just to take a look at it. They are NGK iridium's and they look in pretty good condition considering. I decided to wait as it is supposed to rain and I did not want to get 1/2 way. Anyway, it's pretty straight forward.
The only problem I was having with the plug I pulled is the spark plug puller not wanting to come off the plug and staying in the tube. This was a real pain to deal with. Must be a easy solution for this.
02-01-14, 12:17 PM
#19
Well those plugs don't look that good either. I think you're right to change them soon, not critical but time for a change. I too have had the problem of the spark plug socket not letting go of the plug easily once the plug is installed. You pull out your wrench and the socket stays behind discounting from the extension.
My solution was 3 techniques:
1) sprayed a bit of silicone inside the spark plug socket to ease removal
2) didn't shove the new plug all the way into the socket
3) kept a bit of lateral preasure on the extension when removing the tool after plug was installed.
By the way, suggest the following as well:
1) put some anit-seize on the spark plug threads to make the next change problem free (available at any auto parts store)
2) line the inside of spark boot at the contact point to the spark plug tip with Dielectric Tune-Up Grease -- to keep moisture from interviering with the electrical conductivity (also available at any auto parts store)
This is what is done at the dealer or is suppose to be done.
Hope this helps and man those plugs are easy to access compared to many other cars.
Good luck.
My solution was 3 techniques:
1) sprayed a bit of silicone inside the spark plug socket to ease removal
2) didn't shove the new plug all the way into the socket
3) kept a bit of lateral preasure on the extension when removing the tool after plug was installed.
By the way, suggest the following as well:
1) put some anit-seize on the spark plug threads to make the next change problem free (available at any auto parts store)
2) line the inside of spark boot at the contact point to the spark plug tip with Dielectric Tune-Up Grease -- to keep moisture from interviering with the electrical conductivity (also available at any auto parts store)
This is what is done at the dealer or is suppose to be done.
Hope this helps and man those plugs are easy to access compared to many other cars.
Good luck.
02-01-14, 12:42 PM
#20
That's what I had to do. Put the plug in about half way. I did not want to use grease thinking it would interfere with the transfer of current through the plug and with it getting on the tip of the plug most likely. But it took about 4 times to get it right...
I agree that they are due. I am most impressed at that iridium diode. The gap is just ever so slightly larger. Pretty amazing after 10 years and 110k.
I agree that they are due. I am most impressed at that iridium diode. The gap is just ever so slightly larger. Pretty amazing after 10 years and 110k.
02-01-14, 05:06 PM
#21
Thanks for bring this to my attention. I guess I'll be changing them again @ 152k. I'm sure glad that it only cost 60 for the install.
I think the Power @ 15-20km. 9.3 -12.5k miles. Wow, that really often. More Power and torque by 1.5%. Greater fuel efficiency. All due to a 0.4 vs 0.7 tip. Hmmm. makes me question whether to keep the Power or go with the Long Life next time.
Though denso recommends replacing the long-life plugs @ 100k km. 62k miles. The same that are for 120k service according to lexus. That's some discrepancy.
So, from my initial thinking. Denso recommends:
Power - 9-12 k miles change
Long-Life (OEM) - 62k change
Lexus = Long-Life - 120k change
So, I "could" interpret 18-24k change for the power to keep the long-life @ a 120k mile change interval.
More questions than answers. Could this be another maintenance cost of ownership issue/discrepancy. Seeing as most Lexus dealers would charge around 450-600 for a spark plug change.
From Denso:
I think the Power @ 15-20km. 9.3 -12.5k miles. Wow, that really often. More Power and torque by 1.5%. Greater fuel efficiency. All due to a 0.4 vs 0.7 tip. Hmmm. makes me question whether to keep the Power or go with the Long Life next time.
Though denso recommends replacing the long-life plugs @ 100k km. 62k miles. The same that are for 120k service according to lexus. That's some discrepancy.
So, from my initial thinking. Denso recommends:
Power - 9-12 k miles change
Long-Life (OEM) - 62k change
Lexus = Long-Life - 120k change
So, I "could" interpret 18-24k change for the power to keep the long-life @ a 120k mile change interval.
More questions than answers. Could this be another maintenance cost of ownership issue/discrepancy. Seeing as most Lexus dealers would charge around 450-600 for a spark plug change.
From Denso:
Last edited by writes123; 02-01-14 at 05:13 PM.
02-01-14, 05:17 PM
#22
i use a q-tip and apply a little dielectric grease in the spark plug socket.after you tighten the plug set the ratchet to loosen and tap the ratchet to free the socket from the plug.
02-02-14, 05:31 AM
#23
Here is my R&R procedure for COP type engines. I do around 5 to 10 a week. I'm a little **** so bear with me.
1. Remove all the coils at the same time.
2. Blow compressed air down into each plug tube to remove any foreign matter so that it will not fall into the cylinder upon plug removal.
3. Remove spark plug.
4. I always check the gap even though it says not too adjust it. I don't trust it.
5. Insert new plug into spark plug socket.
6. Give the threads a shot of SeaFoam lubricant or your preferred brand.
7. Hand screw plug into head as tight as you can with your hands. Tighten with wrench until firmly snug.
8. Blow ignition coil with compressed air. Wipe down with a rag with a little of the SeaFoam on it. Coil will look brand new and have a slight coating of moisture control on it.
9. Apply die-electric grease to the tip of the coil, the female end where the spark plug goes in.
10. Insert coil and tighten.
11. Apply die-electric grease to the engine side of the connector for the coil. Again, this will keep the connection dry and much easier to remove the next time.
This is how I have been doing COP plugs since they 1st started. Some technicians will just remove the plugs, throw new one's in it and throw the coil back on it. Take a few more minutes and do it correctly.
1. Remove all the coils at the same time.
2. Blow compressed air down into each plug tube to remove any foreign matter so that it will not fall into the cylinder upon plug removal.
3. Remove spark plug.
4. I always check the gap even though it says not too adjust it. I don't trust it.
5. Insert new plug into spark plug socket.
6. Give the threads a shot of SeaFoam lubricant or your preferred brand.
7. Hand screw plug into head as tight as you can with your hands. Tighten with wrench until firmly snug.
8. Blow ignition coil with compressed air. Wipe down with a rag with a little of the SeaFoam on it. Coil will look brand new and have a slight coating of moisture control on it.
9. Apply die-electric grease to the tip of the coil, the female end where the spark plug goes in.
10. Insert coil and tighten.
11. Apply die-electric grease to the engine side of the connector for the coil. Again, this will keep the connection dry and much easier to remove the next time.
This is how I have been doing COP plugs since they 1st started. Some technicians will just remove the plugs, throw new one's in it and throw the coil back on it. Take a few more minutes and do it correctly.
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02-02-14, 11:23 AM
#26
Here is my R&R procedure for COP type engines. I do around 5 to 10 a week. I'm a little **** so bear with me.
1. Remove all the coils at the same time.
2. Blow compressed air down into each plug tube to remove any foreign matter so that it will not fall into the cylinder upon plug removal.
3. Remove spark plug.
4. I always check the gap even though it says not too adjust it. I don't trust it.
5. Insert new plug into spark plug socket.
6. Give the threads a shot of SeaFoam lubricant or your preferred brand.
7. Hand screw plug into head as tight as you can with your hands. Tighten with wrench until firmly snug.
8. Blow ignition coil with compressed air. Wipe down with a rag with a little of the SeaFoam on it. Coil will look brand new and have a slight coating of moisture control on it.
9. Apply die-electric grease to the tip of the coil, the female end where the spark plug goes in.
10. Insert coil and tighten.
11. Apply die-electric grease to the engine side of the connector for the coil. Again, this will keep the connection dry and much easier to remove the next time.
This is how I have been doing COP plugs since they 1st started. Some technicians will just remove the plugs, throw new one's in it and throw the coil back on it. Take a few more minutes and do it correctly.
1. Remove all the coils at the same time.
2. Blow compressed air down into each plug tube to remove any foreign matter so that it will not fall into the cylinder upon plug removal.
3. Remove spark plug.
4. I always check the gap even though it says not too adjust it. I don't trust it.
5. Insert new plug into spark plug socket.
6. Give the threads a shot of SeaFoam lubricant or your preferred brand.
7. Hand screw plug into head as tight as you can with your hands. Tighten with wrench until firmly snug.
8. Blow ignition coil with compressed air. Wipe down with a rag with a little of the SeaFoam on it. Coil will look brand new and have a slight coating of moisture control on it.
9. Apply die-electric grease to the tip of the coil, the female end where the spark plug goes in.
10. Insert coil and tighten.
11. Apply die-electric grease to the engine side of the connector for the coil. Again, this will keep the connection dry and much easier to remove the next time.
This is how I have been doing COP plugs since they 1st started. Some technicians will just remove the plugs, throw new one's in it and throw the coil back on it. Take a few more minutes and do it correctly.
02-02-14, 02:56 PM
#27
Its essential that you have locking extensions like what i have made by gearwrench, these suckers wont let go until you push on the black lever. You also need multiple lengths as the passenger bank kinda sucks unless you have just the right sized extension. If the extension is too long it will be difficult to pull out the plug. I also used a flex joint so it allowed me to turn the wrench upright instead of being wedged into the wheel wells.
Last edited by username32; 02-02-14 at 03:05 PM.
02-02-14, 07:12 PM
#28
No I do not. I am however a factory trained Lexus and Toyota technician. There's so many different ways sometimes to do a repair. I have always found a correct way of doing it the way it works for me. That's what I stick too.
02-03-14, 08:04 AM
#29
How many ft/lbs does the factory manual say the spark plugs should be torqued to?
Also, some newer spark plugs say not to use anti-seize, but I usually think it's a good idea, especially when you're talking about a plug that goes in there for such a long period of time.
Do the Denso plugs require anti-seize? Copper anti-seize?
Thanks
Also, some newer spark plugs say not to use anti-seize, but I usually think it's a good idea, especially when you're talking about a plug that goes in there for such a long period of time.
Do the Denso plugs require anti-seize? Copper anti-seize?
Thanks
02-03-14, 08:13 AM
#30
How many ft/lbs does the factory manual say the spark plugs should be torqued to?
Also, some newer spark plugs say not to use anti-seize, but I usually think it's a good idea, especially when you're talking about a plug that goes in there for such a long period of time.
Do the Denso plugs require anti-seize? Copper anti-seize?
Thanks
Also, some newer spark plugs say not to use anti-seize, but I usually think it's a good idea, especially when you're talking about a plug that goes in there for such a long period of time.
Do the Denso plugs require anti-seize? Copper anti-seize?
Thanks
Check this out.
http://www.globaldenso.com/en/produc...ion/index.html
If a thread lubricant such as grease is coated on the thread, tightening to the recommended torque is tightening too much;
this has been linked to seal leakage.
Do not use a thread lubricant.
Autolite
We do not recommend the use of any anti seize products for installing spark plugs. Anti-seize compounds are typically composed of metallic, electrically conductive ingredients. If anti seize compounds come in contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition. Anti seize compounds can also have a torque multiplying effect when installing plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling resulting in cylinder head damage. Autolite spark plugs are nickel plated to resist the effects of corrosion and seizing. However, plug seizure is aggravated further when steel plugs are installed into aluminum cylinder heads for a long period of time.
AC/Delco
Do not use any type of anti-seize compound on spark plug threads. Doing this will decrease the amount of friction between the threads. The result of the lowered friction is that when the spark plug is torqued to the proper specification, the spark plug is turned too far into the cylinder head. This increases the likelihood of pulling or stripping the threads in the cylinder head. Over-tightening of a spark plug can cause stretching of the spark plug shell and could allow blowby to pass through the gasket seal between the shell and insulator. Over-tightening also results in extremely difficult removal.
According to the Bulletin, NGK states that all their plugs are manufactured with a special metal shell (trivalent) plating to prevent damage to the cylinder head. For plugs with this special metal plating, anti-seize is not recommended during installation. Applying anti-seize to these plugs will cause the installer to mistakenly over-torque the plug in the cylinder head stretching the metal between the last thread and the seal between the cylinder head and plug. This increases the probability that the spark plug will either break during installation or upon removal.
We do not recommend the use of any anti seize products for installing spark plugs. Anti-seize compounds are typically composed of metallic, electrically conductive ingredients. If anti seize compounds come in contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition. Anti seize compounds can also have a torque multiplying effect when installing plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling resulting in cylinder head damage. Autolite spark plugs are nickel plated to resist the effects of corrosion and seizing. However, plug seizure is aggravated further when steel plugs are installed into aluminum cylinder heads for a long period of time.
AC/Delco
Do not use any type of anti-seize compound on spark plug threads. Doing this will decrease the amount of friction between the threads. The result of the lowered friction is that when the spark plug is torqued to the proper specification, the spark plug is turned too far into the cylinder head. This increases the likelihood of pulling or stripping the threads in the cylinder head. Over-tightening of a spark plug can cause stretching of the spark plug shell and could allow blowby to pass through the gasket seal between the shell and insulator. Over-tightening also results in extremely difficult removal.
According to the Bulletin, NGK states that all their plugs are manufactured with a special metal shell (trivalent) plating to prevent damage to the cylinder head. For plugs with this special metal plating, anti-seize is not recommended during installation. Applying anti-seize to these plugs will cause the installer to mistakenly over-torque the plug in the cylinder head stretching the metal between the last thread and the seal between the cylinder head and plug. This increases the probability that the spark plug will either break during installation or upon removal.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 02-03-14 at 08:17 AM.