Got Keyed
I'm on the same page. I found another place to park that should hopefully be much safer. Not directly on the greenbelt, but not too far away. I will probably keep looking for good spots too.
Yeah, it's hard to see from the pictures, but some of the long scratch touches bare metal. Body shop is going to paint both driver side doors and the rear of the car stretching up over the doors next to the removable strip--basically whole panels up to whatever is the first seam. Deductible is only $100, but I have no idea what my rates are going to do. Long-term client with multiple vehicles, home coverage, auxiliary policies, etc.; so hopefully they won't jack 'em too bad. Whatever it turns out to be, I'm sure it's nothing compared to our oldest turning 16 next year and learning to drive!
EDIT: Sorry, I didn't read FunFact's post correctly. Did not catch that FunFact meant to install the rear-facing camera directly behind the front-facing camera.
Last edited by FatherTo1; Mar 21, 2019 at 06:59 PM.
Never use State Farm's recommended shop. I'd suggest steering clear of that particular company. Find an independent reputable shop that answers to you, not your insurer. Not sure how many miles you have but it could be a total.
Find and use a body shop that does it right. And by right, I mean sanding and correcting back to the proper paint depth. Read this. It matters.
http://www.elcometerusa.com/Second-H...n-Repairs.html
http://www.elcometerusa.com/Second-H...n-Repairs.html
Find and use a body shop that does it right. And by right, I mean sanding and correcting back to the proper paint depth. Read this. It matters.
http://www.elcometerusa.com/Second-H...n-Repairs.html
http://www.elcometerusa.com/Second-H...n-Repairs.html
I'm already worried about them taking apart my doors and such. As a longtime diy stereo installer I know how how rattles and creaks can come from not paying attention to the details in the doors. Not to mention my fears of whether the new paint truly matches the old paint after 5 years. My old Acura was rear-ended many years ago, and the repair was simply amazing. Or it was until it was 6-8 years old and the new bumper paint cracked and changed color slightly. I'm praying the BASF Glasurit posters and brochures in the lobby of the body shop are a good sign...
Find a good local PDR place. They will do that for around $200 per panel. Had my pax door done after being keyed - turned out great.
I ever find somebody doing that Imma go medieval on his ***!
I ever find somebody doing that Imma go medieval on his ***!
Why not just go to a top notch autobody repair shop that specializes in paint? I know when you try and trade in a car they run around with their hand held meter and test paint depth. If the pdr place can do a flawless job, then I am all in. On the other hand, if their work is subpar and is easily detectable that paint work has been done, then no thanks. If I intend to keep the vehicle long term, then I want the best results possible, even if higher cost.
Luckily, the car is insured so the cost isn't really an issue; I just have to pay my deductible. Car is scheduled to be dropped off second week of April.
In the meantime I put a charger on the battery in my old Acura TL and she fired right up! Figure I'll drive that instead of a rental when the LS is in the shop.
In the meantime I put a charger on the battery in my old Acura TL and she fired right up! Figure I'll drive that instead of a rental when the LS is in the shop.
The reason people are recommending the pdr place is that they can fix the paint without repainting the whole panel. Just like how sweet project cars does chip repair I assume in YouTube. If I intend to buy a car and I’m testing paint thickness and I see a discrepancy I’ll probably pass unless I.can be sure what happened. So it’s not really about money but rather preserving the fact that your car has original paint











