Need tools for changing control arm bushing
 

Hi guys, I am in the process of replacing the upper control arm bushing for my 2010 LS460 base model. I rented a 23 piece ball joint press kit from advanced auto parts, but that doesn't fit at all. I tried all combination of those adapters, and none can push out the old bushing on the upper control arm. So I think I need a specialized tool, like the PSB 460T, to do the job. However the PSB460T is out of stock, can't find it anywhere. I even called Armstrong Distributors and no luck.

So anyone on the forum has one of these PSB460T lying around, so I can buy or rent it? I'm in Belmont CA, I can do the transaction locally or on eBay or whatever way you prefer. Thanks!

Try a press.

I have already bought the PSB460 bushings, so can't buy whole set of control arms, would be too expensive. And since I dont have another car, if I take off the control arm, there is no way for me to drive to a shop to use their press, so have to go this DIY route. Thanks for your response though!

If your looking a OEM ones... You will be paying. Check rock auto, get the mid line ones... People here swear on them. And they are like 1/4 the price of the OEM ones... and are direct replacements..

The whole set, upper and lower for the front comes to around $600 in parts...

There's always Uber!!!!

Can I ask ? What does that have to do with ANYTHING on this subject ?

He can always get around where he needs by taking an Uber,or taxi,or friend,...while car is at the shop.
I didn't think it'd be that difficult to understand.

First I was going to be blunt but I also have been known to try and save a buck and had it backfire. RockAuto then return the bushings or eat them.

In order to remove stubborn bushes from suspension, AS LONG AS THE PART IS OFF THE CAR, I've extracted them by using fire.

Seriously.

Remove the control arm or whatever, grab a portable torch, and set the rubber on fire when you're on concrete and away from flammable things. It'll take a few minutes, but eventually, the bush will shoot itself out of the control arm, leaving probably a metal sleeve behind. Clean up said sleeve of melted rubber, install the new bushes.

Again, DO NOT DO THIS WHILE THE PARTS ARE ON THE CAR OR IN YOUR GARAGE!!!

Pay attention to which side the bush was obviously pressed in from, as you want to set the opposite side on fire. It doesn't have to be a raging inferno, just smoldering will do it, though it may take a few minutes. You'll hear a muted "thwump", and the rubber will have backed itself out of the sleeve.

I'm going to take video of the next time I do this, as I have to do all the front end bushes on Silvia, and there are still a few on my Grand Cherokee which I've yet to tackle, because of how difficult they are to access. "Difficult" as in the front axle needs to be disconnected from the suspension, completely, in order to access the upper control arm bushes on the top of the axle. That's going to take a couple of hours.

Thank you guys, the package of the bushings has already been opened and I've already lost 1 of the 4 tubes of grease :egads:, so no chance of returning that. Also my rental agreement explicitly says "don't do mechanical work in the drive way", so I'm using a friend's drive way to do the job, and it's probably not a great idea to light a fire, even a small one...... I know that given my situation it's probably best to let a shop do it or just buy all the aftermarket CA, but I have already successfully taken one upper CA off (ball joint and the arm itself is in good shape, only the bushing is shot), tried and failed to push out the original bushing, realized I need special tools, and then put back the control arm, and car still drives. So right now all that is between me and a perfect ride is those PSB460T tools. Really hope someone has it :D

I'm with the others that say to replace the entire arm. I replaced the entire front suspension recently, and one arm was surprisingly more difficult than the others. 3 out of the 4 UCA came out with no issues, but the last one I had to destroy the ball joint for it to come out of the knuckle. Luckily, I was already replacing all the arms, so it wasn't an issue for me.

Found this one on Amazon, it has adapters from 18mm to 65mm in 1mm increment, hope this thing paired with the ball joint service set from advanced auto parts would do the job. Has ordered one, actually half the price of PSB460t. Will give it a try on Tuesday or Wednesday. Will report back whether successful or not.


edit: just went down and did a quick measurement, the diameter of the oem CA bushing is between 40 and 50mm, somewhere around 45mm. The thickness of the metal ring is definitely more than 1mm, which gives a good space for maneuverability, since we don't want the adapter to be exactly the same size (preferably 1mm smaller in diameter but still able to push on the metal ring solidly), that way the adapter will get stuck in the CA like its a bushing....

The thing SHOULD work, I hope.

Those drivers will work for pressing in the new bushings, but you'll have trouble taking out the old bushings. You need a driver that has the correct outer diameter and a recessed bore on the inside to accommodate the bolt sleeve for the stock bushings (think of how a socket looks). A socket is usually the perfect driver to use on a hydraulic press (press height can be adjusted to accommodate the driver and receiving cup), but since you're using a ball joint tool it is usually limited to a 6" opening.

If you want to use those drivers, then you'll have to use a torch to burn out the bolt sleeves first, then you'll be able to place the driver directly on to the bushing sleeves to press it out.

That's very good insight! Thanks!

During my last failed try, I used one adapter from the advance auto parts set, and successfully pushed both the metal ring and the inside bolt sleeve to the edge of the control arm, meaning that they are level (hope you understand what I'm trying to describe, sorry for bad English, non native speaker here). Then I realized that it won't just pop out automatically, I pushed it back to the original position and installed back on the car... It's definitely more damaged than before lol. I hope with similar process I can first level the bolt sleeve and the metal ring, then use the adapters I bought to push out all the stuff together.

Thanks!