I am doing the brakes on a friends 2011 460 RW sport brake edition this weekend. The Alldate instructions always talks about 2 things:

1. disconnecting the battery so that if you open the door or step on the brakes the SRS will engage. Is this necessary and what would happen is the SRS did engage- would it deploy airbags or do something else?
2. Draining the brake fluid. Is this a necessity to deal with the 6 piston Brembo calipers or just a recommendation on brake fluid replacement. is fluid is more than fine and changing it it a waste of money and not to be rude sounding, but i know cars and I know when to change the fluid or not. I am just asking since I live in the world of Jaguar if this is some necessity to retract the caliber pistons? Any useful tips/hints on doing the front brakes?

On the rear brakes and I have done the brakes on a 2005 LS 430 are quite simple, but it appears that the rotors are hooked to the parking drum brakes on the 2011 and that some experience with that would appear to be helpful. Any suggestions or if I goof- do I end up with a dysfunction braking system?

Thanks

Tom in Dallas/Plano

 

It would be good to hear from others what steps they followed when replacing their rotors and brake pads. This is on my list to do as well.
I have changed a lot of pads and rotors on different vehicles and do not remember ever disconnecting the battery.

I too would like to get this right the first time.

Hopefully others will weigh in on this.

 

If you don't disconnect any fluid lines YOU DO NOT need to use Techstream, nor do you need to disconnect the battery. Simply replacing pads and rotors do not require any special tools or techniques.

 

I concur with roadfrog, I just installed new front rotors and pads at 105,000 miles, very straightforward job

 

Yes it is very straightforward and easy. I've done mine twice now and each time was a breeze. In fact of the dozens of brake jobs I've done in the last 30 years, this would be the easiest next to my 5.0 Mustang,

 

Yup, easy and cheap to do rotors and pads yourself on these. I had a trusted independent shop do the brake fluid along with the transmission as those are a bit more involved.

 

Not sure about the rear brake be hooked on a 2011. I doubt it is maybe the rotor is just seized a bit more. I used a bolt the right size to run thru the holes on rotor to pop them off better than taking a hammer to it.

 

So how did it go? I just did brakes and rotors yesterday and did not disconnect the battery. I even opened doors and started the car several times to turn the wheels. When I was done I had no lights on my dash and everything was fine.

 

Everything went fine and the front brakes were a breeze. I did disconnect the battery, but that all takes an insignificant amount of time. I always err on the side of caution. For whatever it is worth- here is what Alldata indicates:
"BRAKE: FRONT BRAKE (for 6-Pot Caliper): REMOVAL

HINT
* Use the same procedure for the RH and LH sides.
* The following procedure is for the LH side.

NOTICE:
While the battery is connected, even if the engine switch is off, the brake control system activates when the brake pedal is depressed or the door courtesy switch turns on. Therefore during servicing of the brake system components, do not operate the brake pedal and open/ close the doors while the battery is connected."


What can I say?

Thanks

Tom in Dallas/Plano

 

The motor noise you sometimes hear after turning the car off and locking it (can happen 10 minutes after shutdown) is the ABS pump charging the power assist system. If the brake calipers are not pinching the pads to the rotors during this cycle, the pressure can push the piston right out of the caliper. Then you need to open the bleed screw, carefully push the piston back in without damaging the seal, and bleed that corner after reassembly. Which is not as fun as disconnecting the battery.