LS will not start
08-28-17, 12:43 PM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
LS will not start
Ok, so while doing some elect. work on a aftermarket light switch under dash I apparently shorted something. Car will not start with push button and brake pedal applied.
Nav, radio will come on in accessory position but when start button and brake pedal pushed it just cuts out to nothing headlights do come on.
I do have remote start and car will start and run as normal but with no take over it just shuts off if door is opened and repeats sequence above.
Have checked every fuse, and fusible link on the car.
Any ideas?
Nav, radio will come on in accessory position but when start button and brake pedal pushed it just cuts out to nothing headlights do come on.
I do have remote start and car will start and run as normal but with no take over it just shuts off if door is opened and repeats sequence above.
Have checked every fuse, and fusible link on the car.
Any ideas?
08-28-17, 02:00 PM
#2
Does the green light on the start button come on??
You could disconnect the battery and wait a few mins and see if that resets anything.
What were you installing??
And where??
You could disconnect the battery and wait a few mins and see if that resets anything.
What were you installing??
And where??
08-29-17, 04:08 PM
#3
Driver
Thread Starter
Funny thing is everything works when car is started remotely. When trying to start using push button light is amber and when pushed dash lights come on for half a second or so then cut off, steering wheel moves also then stops and this repeats every time button is pushed.
I don't think the ecu is toast because like I said when started remotely the car starts and function as normal. But it does cut off due to no takeover for remote start.
08-30-17, 07:35 AM
#7
Ok, so while doing some elect. work on a aftermarket light switch under dash I apparently shorted something. Car will not start with push button and brake pedal applied.
Nav, radio will come on in accessory position but when start button and brake pedal pushed it just cuts out to nothing headlights do come on.
I do have remote start and car will start and run as normal but with no take over it just shuts off if door is opened and repeats sequence above.
Have checked every fuse, and fusible link on the car.
Any ideas?
Nav, radio will come on in accessory position but when start button and brake pedal pushed it just cuts out to nothing headlights do come on.
I do have remote start and car will start and run as normal but with no take over it just shuts off if door is opened and repeats sequence above.
Have checked every fuse, and fusible link on the car.
Any ideas?
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08-30-17, 12:16 PM
#8
Driver
Thread Starter
ok, I'll check the brake pedal switch. I do hear something like a relay clicking at the motor area but I have to wait until my friend comes over so he can hit the button and hold brake so I can check it out.
my battery is fine. The car starts perfectly using remote start.
my battery is fine. The car starts perfectly using remote start.
08-30-17, 12:30 PM
#9
You can check the brake pedal switch by yourself.
With the electronic key inside the car, press the brake pedal while observing the START button. If the pedal switch is good the green LED in the START button will illuminate when the pedal is depressed.
With the electronic key inside the car, press the brake pedal while observing the START button. If the pedal switch is good the green LED in the START button will illuminate when the pedal is depressed.
08-30-17, 01:01 PM
#10
ok, I'll check the brake pedal switch. I do hear something like a relay clicking at the motor area but I have to wait until my friend comes over so he can hit the button and hold brake so I can check it out.
my battery is fine. The car starts perfectly using remote start.
my battery is fine. The car starts perfectly using remote start.
It may be that the battery burden for remote start and local start are significantly different.
It takes only a minute or so, and nothing to disconnect, to get a good idea of the relative amount of energy in your battery, by using a voltmeter and SOC lookup table.
08-30-17, 05:30 PM
#11
Driver
Thread Starter
Voltmeter chk shows 12.26vdc which equates to 60-70 % state of charge.
Green light does come on when brake pedal is depressed. When pressed to start dash lights illum. for a split second and steering column moves and cycles off. Light on push to start button illum. amber for several flashes.
Green light does come on when brake pedal is depressed. When pressed to start dash lights illum. for a split second and steering column moves and cycles off. Light on push to start button illum. amber for several flashes.
08-30-17, 06:31 PM
#12
Seems likely that the brake pedal switch is good.
You are wise to check the battery. If your voltmeter is accurate - I have no reason to doubt its accuracy - then your battery should be OK. You need to keep in mind that the battery may suffer permanent damage if the SOC falls below 50%, so you will need to put it on a charger if you continue to work on your car. It might be a good idea to put it on a charger overnight to see if that will raise the SOC.
Sorry, I am out of ideas, except, as a long shot, you should charge the battery overnight, with one terminal disconnected (the negative terminal). When you reconnect and push the start button that will reinitialize the car's electronics. It probably will not help but it doesn't cost much or take much time.
I hope someone who knows something about this will join the discussion and help you.
You are wise to check the battery. If your voltmeter is accurate - I have no reason to doubt its accuracy - then your battery should be OK. You need to keep in mind that the battery may suffer permanent damage if the SOC falls below 50%, so you will need to put it on a charger if you continue to work on your car. It might be a good idea to put it on a charger overnight to see if that will raise the SOC.
Sorry, I am out of ideas, except, as a long shot, you should charge the battery overnight, with one terminal disconnected (the negative terminal). When you reconnect and push the start button that will reinitialize the car's electronics. It probably will not help but it doesn't cost much or take much time.
I hope someone who knows something about this will join the discussion and help you.
08-30-17, 07:31 PM
#13
Advanced
THIS ^^^^ #12 is great advice!
Did you try jumping the car?..... I know it starts and the voltage appears good, etc. BUT try jumping the car before you go too crazy because this problem seems to be pointing to a weak battery or a high resistance connection. Did you turn off AC, lights, radio, etc prior to starting? Can you "easily" disconnect the remote starter? (EG: Unplugging it)
BTW! The proper way to test a battery is a "load tester" if you have access to one.
Did you try jumping the car?..... I know it starts and the voltage appears good, etc. BUT try jumping the car before you go too crazy because this problem seems to be pointing to a weak battery or a high resistance connection. Did you turn off AC, lights, radio, etc prior to starting? Can you "easily" disconnect the remote starter? (EG: Unplugging it)
BTW! The proper way to test a battery is a "load tester" if you have access to one.
08-31-17, 03:36 AM
#14
Driver
Thread Starter
I have taken the batt. out and placed on a slow charger checked caps water levels look ok, next step will be trying to jump start then disabling remote start if nothing else works.
08-31-17, 06:53 AM
#15
"Good on you" for removing the battery from the car - that forces you to look at the connections and gives you an opportunity to deal with any corrosion.
Chuckinnj has given you some very good advice in post #13 above. There isn't a single battery test that will identify every problem, but a load test will give a very good indication about the battery's capability to start the car in the near term. Most modern batteries will "give up their stuff" (pass a load test) until the SOC becomes very low. And, Chuckinnj's suggestion that you try jumpstarting is also good if you are in a jam - and you may be in a jam. There is some risk in jumpstarting and it is not for those who don't understand the risk. There is risk of damaging both or either car and a risk of injury to the person making the connections, so if you don't have a good understanding of this procedure, it's not for you.
Now that you have the battery out of the car and If you have access to a full-service battery dealer, your should take your battery in and have it charged and tested. Battery dealers should be equipped to test your battery adequately. If they tell you your battery needs to be replaced, then do it. If you will choose a dealer who deals in the same brand as your battery there might be some cost proration if you have to replace your battery.
And, as Chuckinnj said: turn off everything that you can, and especially all the exterior lights.
If you don't have access to a battery dealer and plan to do the "slow charge," keep in mind that, depending on charge rate, it may take up to 36 hours for the battery to be fully charged. Once it is fully charged you should check the SOC - I think the rule-of-thumb is: any fully charged battery that has an SOC less than 75% should be replaced. And remember, the battery may have a defect that only a load test will identify.
Chuckinnj has given you some very good advice in post #13 above. There isn't a single battery test that will identify every problem, but a load test will give a very good indication about the battery's capability to start the car in the near term. Most modern batteries will "give up their stuff" (pass a load test) until the SOC becomes very low. And, Chuckinnj's suggestion that you try jumpstarting is also good if you are in a jam - and you may be in a jam. There is some risk in jumpstarting and it is not for those who don't understand the risk. There is risk of damaging both or either car and a risk of injury to the person making the connections, so if you don't have a good understanding of this procedure, it's not for you.
Now that you have the battery out of the car and If you have access to a full-service battery dealer, your should take your battery in and have it charged and tested. Battery dealers should be equipped to test your battery adequately. If they tell you your battery needs to be replaced, then do it. If you will choose a dealer who deals in the same brand as your battery there might be some cost proration if you have to replace your battery.
And, as Chuckinnj said: turn off everything that you can, and especially all the exterior lights.
If you don't have access to a battery dealer and plan to do the "slow charge," keep in mind that, depending on charge rate, it may take up to 36 hours for the battery to be fully charged. Once it is fully charged you should check the SOC - I think the rule-of-thumb is: any fully charged battery that has an SOC less than 75% should be replaced. And remember, the battery may have a defect that only a load test will identify.