JLAWS

You may be surprised that the noise can be a $30+ sway bar end link either being defective or not tightened down.
It can sound similar to a blown strut. Take off the sway bar link on the side making the noise and drive to see if the noise is still there. Don't make any very sharp turns going over 20+mph with the links off, just go over bumps to see if the noise goes away.
Taking them off can be a challenge if they are old. The hex head that stops the nut from spinning might get stripped and then you'll end up destroying the sway link just to get it off.

I also recently replace a lower ball joint boot myself that was torn. The ball joint was still in great shape. I grease the hell out of it with synthetic bearing grease before putting a new boot on. Doing this along with new sway links (greasable ones) stopped the faint knocking I still had right after putting on new upper control arms which I thought was the culprit (I did it myself) . So I either has a bad sway links or dry lower ball joint due to grease leaking out of the torn boot.

Good luck

lextout

these cars are smooth riders even without air ride suspension

redlight30

Jlaws - I will mention this tomorrow when I bring the car in.

redlight30

Gave the master tech the info above. We went for a long ride and he still hears the faint noises I hear. Also a new problem crept up just yesterday when letting up on the accelerator at 60-70 mph there was a significant vibration then nothing below 60 mph and nothing when giving it gas. The tech new right away something with the axles as he had just done another 2014 with the same issue right around the same mileage. sounded expensive!! Very tempted to just cut bait with this LS and move on! Maybe I can get them to swap me even up a 2017 GS350 Fsport!

kontrazeus

I saved thousand of dollars! After being diagnosed with the dreaded control arm issue on these cars I had to get creative. All of my upper and lower control arms and joints were shot due to my 2008 having over 210000 miles on it. After getting tired of all the noises i decided to try a cost effective fix. Considering that its just rubber I had to think of a way to replace the rubber in the bushings that had rotten out leaving gaps between the bushings and metal bolts holding the arms on. The solution you wont believe was Flex Shot only cost me $20 and it it fixed all of my issues, will be posting pictures soon, but after driving over 2 days with it has solved all my problems! After jacking up the car and removing the wheel, without even having to remove any parts i just used a hydralic jack to push up the lower control arm and upper control arms to move the front assembly independent of the car and sprayed the flex shot into the gaps! This stuff is really strong and flex shot is made to last for years and it also has to strength as well and has made my bushings like new again! Flex shot is there only product that is suppose to last 30 years! To good to be true I know! I still cant beleivie it! Next I will spray leather spray paint over it protect the rubber from the elements https://www.flexsealproducts.com/product/flex-shot/

JLAWS

I hope you are joking. Rubber spray will be good at coating parts and muffling sounds but it WILL NOT fix your worn suspension which could be a safety issue. Aftermarket Upper and lower control arms are very reasonable priced and it is not too hard of a DIY.

By the way Flex seal is GREAT at sealing leaks. My ceiling leaked a little water around the fire place flashing during heavy down pours. I sprayed around the fireplace and it fixed my leaks! Still good after a year.

redlight30

Just picked up my car. both front drive shaft assemblies had to be replaced for the vibration when letting off the gas. Other rattling/chattering noise is still there and we are now getting local rep involved. Drove a 2017 with 2000 miles and heard it on that car as well. I wonder if it will be deemed to be just part of the car? I can't let this go as the noise bothers me beyond belief (even when the radio is up!). We shall see what corporate says.

comotiger

Hi Redlight30, thanks for the update. It is good to know that one problem was fixed but it's too bad that the original noise/chatter remains. I am surprised you heard the same noise in a nearly brand-new car. I am really intrigued by this. I wonder if I hear the same noise but just think of it as nothing unusual. But if you can hear it even with the radio on, that's pretty loud and bad, although I wouldn't have expected to hear that in a 2017 LS. Can you drive a couple more LSs and report back?

anthony1

I had a similar noise coming from front passenger side. Turns out to be leaky shock. Replace both sides with KYB from Rockauto (100 bucks each) and replaced all the arms and swaybar bushings with polyurethane bushings. Now with 77K miles, drives awesome now... still smooth too.

redlight30

I will absolutely update. the master tech took the 17' out as well before we did today and noticed it and that's why we went today. This was the only LS they had on the lot for now. I will also mention the shocks to them as well. They did check the sway bar links that Jlaws suggested and found nothing there. I actually am becoming sour on the LS after this and my 2010 issues and may just work out a deal to punt this car and move on from the LS.

redlight30

A quick update - had the East Coast Regional person from Lexus take a ride Friday with myself and the head dealer tech and he heard the noise fairly quickly when we went over a road/parking lot area where I know the noise happens. He took video and it does show up on the video. I guess next step is for him to try and re-create the noise in other LS' and then speak to some higher ups to see of anyone knows of anything like it. Might be a couple of weeks before I hear back.
He was very nice and has worked for Lexus 25+years. It is just frustrating as I was out with a buddy a week ago and he says to me what the hell is that rattling noise? isn't this a $80k+ car my Honda civic doesn't rattle like this! I mentioned to the regional guy this is likely my last LS as I am 2 for 2 with suspension noises/issues and he said that's interesting to hear I am sure corporate wont like to hear that! Ah well she still drives nicely and if I turn the ML up to 50 I don't hear a thing! Will post another update when I know something else. Ciao

JLAWS

Also try tightening down the upper control arms. Remove the castle nut pins and tighten them down as much as you can. I just changed my struts and had a knock over bumps. I thought I tighten them enough since I was able to get the castle nut pins thru the hole. I needed to do another full turn. Now the noise is gone. I truly believe if there is any movement/travel with the upper control arm connected to the (knuckle?) then there will be noise

johnnyg66

I might try that i am just afraid the bolt will break.

JLAWS

The control arm bolt is a ball joint. It is very strong. Use a close wrench or a socket wrench with a short socket to avoid stripping the nut with a long socket that might slip off.. I believe the size is 17mm. If you can turn it then it was loose. The control arm bolt has to set inside the knuckle meaning if you took the nut off it should not easily pop out. Don't be surprised if you can only turn to another notch every bit makes a difference.
I've done a lot of driving since changing my struts and retightening the control arms. The knocking is gone.

johnnyg66

Did you follow the torque spec?