roadfrog

Bingo. I bet you won't see those deposits on your next check (if you don't use additives).

When I changed my plugs at 80k miles, they were clean as a whistle.

Lexuslsguy

No way two tanks of fuel with additives would do that to the plugs.

sktn77a

iTrader: (2)

I don't think much of the information in this articcle is really applicable to modern engines with iridium plugs (two stroke, lead deposition, lead burning?). are those plugs OEM Denso? I'm thinking that maybe the gas additive is responsible for that deposition as I've NEVER see an iridium plug looking like that.

Lexuslsguy

How many miles were the plugs? Deposits on the firing end is usually related to oil leakage and / or fuel quality issues.

veronchu

I have no idea how many miles they are on. I will drive 5k more miles and check see if any good

Doublebase

The plugs probably look like that because you're burning some oil, probably worn valve guides. Oil has minerals in it that will leave deposits like that...zinc, calcium, magnesium, etc.

Chances are the inside of your combustion chambers have similar deposits, but you have almost 300,000 miles on your engine (kind of to be expected at this point). With that kind of mileage you drive it and enjoy whatever you have left. The thing will probably be fine for another 100,000 miles with a little care and maintenance. Let's say you find yourself with a misfire code 50,000 miles from now and it's because of the plugs, just change them again.

Lexuslsguy

Definitely de-carb the ole' gal. Flush the engine or what I prefer is to run about 2/3 quart of MMO for 2k miles or so. More effective. Great stuff to use in the fuel as well. I use it in every gas fill up. You don't go crazy. About 6 - 8 ounces a tank. Also helps eliminate any water in the fuel and negative carbon related effects of ethanol, cleans the fuel system, injectors, etc.

Check out the UOA's on the stuff if interested. Nothing very exciting but it's impressive. It is a mix in a base oil between well known / used solvents to help clean carbon and friction modifiers to help your oil of choice stick to the metal. It's just a well thought oil mixture. With the best ingredients from what I have read. Amazing they got it right so long ago. Definitely my favorite stuff that I notice the effects immediately. I get my best mileage when I run it in the fuel.

roadfrog

Most of the positive stuff you read are anecdotal and/or from MMO themselves. Back in the day when I was a member of the dieselstop forums, the joke was, "it's a Marvel and a Mystery why anyone would use it". There was a comprehensive research paper done and paid for by a diesel engine website (I'll try to find it), that in summation stated, "It is interesting that it demonstrates not only no enhancement of lubrication but an actual deterioration in lubrication of the medium it is added to."

Further: https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles...ly-a-negative/

There's not really anything in MMO that is earth-shattering, which isn't a surprise considering it was invented by an automotive engineer named Burt Pierce, during WW1 .....Benzene, naptha (white gas) and mineral spirits. Problem is, benzene when combusted, turns into Hydrochloric acid. Not wanting that in my engine or exhaust.

All that said....MANY people swear by the stuff, (although some of the claims are outrageous). At Bimmerfest, 7 Series BMW's were/are having massive problems with engines coking (carbon). Some members tried to use MMO, and Seafoam to remedy it, but without success.

sktn77a

iTrader: (2)

Snake oil has been around longer than any of us! I used to believe that the oil/gas companies knew more than any backyard "engineer" when it comes to additives. And I still think they do. Trouble is, today they are more intent on making money that producing a first rate product that really does stand out from the crowd. Needless to say, I don't use any of these treatments and I steer clear of "Injector Services" offered by my dealer. The only kind of cleaning I do on any engine is the obligatory "top end treatment" that Lexus dealers do to combat the design flaws of my IS250 engine with its direct-only fuel injection.

Sodium

Where did you hear this? Benzene is just carbon and hydrogen (C6H6), so combustion of benzene in air will only produce CO2 and H2O.

C6H6 + 7.5O2 –––> 6CO2 + 3H2O

Only way you could get HCl from benzene combustion is if the benzene were contaminated with chlorine compounds

Lukas99GS

maybe changing the transmission mount would help?
heck at that mileage I would think changing the engine and trans mounts would make it much smoother. Sway bar bushings are another cheap thing to replace, I didn't even think mine were bad but after changing all of them you definitely notice how much more solid it feels over bumps.

roadfrog

I'm no scientist (just look at my grade 10 science report card). I only know what I read, which basically confirms what you said in your post. The way I read the reports, it basically says that the other chemicals (chlorinated paraffins), present in the additive causes the HCI.

anthony1

I got all the polyurethane bushings for the control arms and sway bar but haven't been able to do it myself yet. House remodeling required that i empty my garage. I'm looking forward to the improvement in ride feel.

Sodium

Well to be fair to you, report cards don't always tell the whole story

And yeah burning chlorinated paraffins can definitely give you hydrogen chloride. Of course, any time you burn an organochlorine compound you can get some nasty products (and even more so for organofluorines).

I could see the HCl not playing nicely with the exhaust, but if only a small amount of HCl is produced it likely wouldn't make a huge difference to the engine – the oil already is set up to deal with sulfuric acid from gasoline combustion. Haha so if you want a new exhaust system but the wife isn't letting you spend the money, use as much MMO as possible and be sure to change your oil on time

460ing

I dont have extended warranty but thanks for mentioning it.
Most likely the actuator went out first. So I was shopping for one and realized how expensive it is so I thought maybe give the pump a try first since pedal pressure changed and got worse over time. At times the brake pedal wouldnt want to move at all which did not allow me to start the engine. Whenever that happened, I had to press on the engine start button to let the electronics work to let the brake pedal soften and then press the brake and engine start to start the engine.

After I changed the pump, the pedal pressure was completely normal but I still had all the VSC lights on. We did a manual bleeding and did no change. Then I took it to the lexus dealer to bleed it using machines and the codes still came up :

C1201 Engine Control System Malfunction
C1345 Linear Solenoid Valve Offset Learning undone

The dealer told me most likely its the actuator but they also showed me tons of brake ECUs disposed of. Asked me if I would like to change the actuator and ECU and I told him to wait as I might find cheaper parts.

tried to drive home after the machine bleeding and the brake pedal is now FULLY ON or FULLY off. The brake lines are probably too pressurized and the actuator valves being locked in place might have worsened the situation. If I just touch the pedal with minimal pressure its as if I slammed the brakes.

Dealer also told me to avoid driving as when they tried to reprogram the brake the pump / master cylinder got very very hot. So that might be why the pumps can go?

Will change actuator first and if ECU is good will come back to you guys.