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Well, if you read the first two pages of posts on this forum, you'll get a good idea of what to look for. Control arms, brake actuator, wheel bearings, water pumps, ML amps, glove boxes, melting interior vinyl, etc. Control arms - $500-2000 if you do it yourself, brake actuator about the same, MLamp, $500-1000 to repair, melting interiors - anybody's guess. You can double these prices at a Lexus dealer.
Well, if you read the first two pages of posts on this forum, you'll get a good idea of what to look for. Control arms, brake actuator, wheel bearings, water pumps, ML amps, glove boxes, melting interior vinyl, etc. Control arms - $500-2000 if you do it yourself, brake actuator about the same, MLamp, $500-1000 to repair, melting interiors - anybody's guess. You can double these prices at a Lexus dealer.
On the other hand on my 2010 LS 460L with 65, 000 miles I have had none of those problems. Other than regular service items I have not spent a dime on our LS. I have done brakes (pads & rotors) spark plugs and the service items at the service intervals suggested and that is it.
Please correct me if I am wrong (and I have no doubt our knowledgeable member base will) , but by 2010 I thought the actuator was worked out likewise with the control arms. While certainly no car is perfect, I can not think of a car in its class that combines solid reliability, comparatively reasonable repair costs, and so forth.
Like I would recommend with most all 460's, I would decidedly recommend a PPI (pre purchase inspection) on the 460's that you are interested in. All in all, I really think you will be quite happy with a 2010 460.
Good Luck,
Best,
JQ
I believe it was the later models of the 2010's when the control arms were corrected. Not sure when the actuator issue was resolved. Mine clicks but has never lit up the lights on the dash or thrown a code.
I believe it was the later models of the 2010's when the control arms were corrected. Not sure when the actuator issue was resolved. Mine clicks but has never lit up the lights on the dash or thrown a code.
Dennis
Previous posters are correct, hassoon. You're making a good decision to start with 2010. For additional peace of mind, make sure you get a 2010 AFTER the below VIN range, else use it as a bargaining tool, and we all would agree with Junglequac's suggestion to get a PPI. Happy shopping and take your time, it's worth waiting to get the right one.
Previous posters are correct, hassoon. You're making a good decision to start with 2010. For additional peace of mind, make sure you get a 2010 AFTER the below VIN range, else use it as a bargaining tool, and we all would agree with Junglequac's suggestion to get a PPI. Happy shopping and take your time, it's worth waiting to get the right one.
How do you know the VIN number is after the redesign date for a 2010? Which numbers do you look at to make sure?
How do you know the VIN number is after the redesign date for a 2010? Which numbers do you look at to make sure?
You just check the VIN on the vehicle door jamb or near the base of the windshield, on the driver's side dash, and compare the last 6 digits to the cutoff on the Service Bulletin. If your VIN is larger in value than the cutoff value then you should be good.
You just check the VIN on the vehicle door jamb or near the base of the windshield, on the driver's side dash, and compare the last 6 digits to the cutoff on the Service Bulletin. If your VIN is larger in value than the cutoff value then you should be good.
05-20-17, 02:05 PM
