wakebord99

Folks - We all know there are issues with our control arm bushings going. I'ld like to start this post for us to share your success with aftermarket parts. Please keep the format below when sharing your setup:

Car Year:
RWD/AWD:
Which Control Arm(s):
Miles at Replacement:
Miles since Replacement:
Control Arms or just Bushings:
Manufacturer:
Reseller:
Parts Cost:
Labor Cost:
Would you recommend (1 no --10 yes):

fwhomeboy

Theres a great thread about this already. The guys here have it all laid out. It's great Info there. I gotta dig in to find the link but, I'll find it . Give me a min.

fwhomeboy

Here it is. Read this and get some idea what these guys learned................ Good luck !!!
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...placement.html

fwhomeboy

Here is another one.......https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...placement.html

wakebord99

I want to thank you for your responses however neither of these threads serve the purpose of this. This is intended to be a consolidated location for everyone who replaced their bushings to ID brands and success over time. I'm a long time Porsche and BMW guy and these types of threads are common stickies on most forums and provides a quick reference to cross shop brands and to find commonalities across brands.

roadfrog

I'll bite:

Car Year: 2008
RWD/AWD: RWD
Which Control Arm(s): All front - eight in total
Miles at Replacement: 115k miles
Miles since Replacement: 1k miles (or so)
Control Arms or just Bushings: Control arms with bushings already in place.
Manufacturer: MAAS and Mevotech
Reseller: Rock Auto
Parts Cost: $513.06
Labor Cost: about 800 dollars inc taxes etc
Would you recommend (1 no --10 yes): I highly recommend Rock Auto (10), but it's too soon to recommend the parts. They seem like good quality though

I should add that I only needed to replace one control arm bushing. I only replaced them all as preventative maintenance. My labor cost above was also inclusive of replacing both ball joints which is a biotch of a job. It also includes replacing the front shocks and rear shocks as well as wheel alignment.

Doublebase

Car Year: 2007
RWD/AWD: RWD
Which Control Arm(s): uppers and two of the four lowers (frontward facing)
Miles at Replacement: 115,000
Miles since Replacement: 35,000
Control Arms or just Bushings: control arms
Manufacturer: Mixture of a beck Arnely and Mevotech
Reseller: Amazon and EBay
Parts Cost: around $600
Labor Cost: Did them myself
Would you recommend (1 no --10 yes): 10

Not a difficult job, the Beck Arnley parts I'm pretty sure were OE, they looked like it and I've heard that Beck Arnley sometimes ends up rebranding OE suspension parts.

ibidu1

iTrader: (1)

This should be a sticky!

roadfrog

Update to my post above. I had a knocking/clicking noise from my front passenger side. Took it back to the shop that did the work and they said that the ball joint was failing. So, it's getting redone on Friday. The shop quoted me 254 dollars for the ball joint and arm. We'll see what exactly happened, but until I get the parts back I can't say whether it was a Mevotech, MAS, or the offshore Ebay ball joint that failed.

roadfrog

Update on my Update.....

Turns out that ONLY the ball joint failed. So, I ordered a Febest one on Amazon for 15 bucks and expedited delivery for an extra 10 bucks. They said the control arms were fine.

Lexuslsguy

Beck Arnley is the best aftermarket supplier I have used on suspension parts.

roadfrog

Depends who you talk to. Many say MOOG are better. I believe there have been some significant failures of BA parts especially ball joints. I also believe Doublebase had a BA control arm bushing fail. I'll let him chime in. Here's one of the links to the ball joint problem : https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...-far-away.html

Doublebase

The BA part that failed on me was a wheel bearing, it became loose in 7,000 miles. Contacted BA and I had a new one in three days.

I agree with the poster above, they do seem to be excellent for suspension components. I did a little research before I purchased the BA arms...talked to some guys I know at local shops and they said the BA stuff was sometimes OE (rebranded). And they felt the BA products were very good. They also said Moog was good. I personally find it to be a little hit or miss with any aftermarket parts...sometimes you won't have a problem...sometimes they'll fail. And you never can tell. I've had aftermarket tie rods and ball joints fail, it happens, but they are usually covered under a warranty anyway.

​​​​​​​One thing I will say, if anyone needs to replace a bearing on this car I'd highly recommend going with a Koyo bearing. A friend at the parts store cross referenced the number on it through some code they use to determine if it's a OE part, and it was. I've also read online that Koyo is the supplier for bearing on Lexus. And unlike the BA wheel that failed at 7,000 miles, the Koyo is going strong 25,000 miles later. You'll definitely pay twice as much for the Koyo but it's worth it...but it's still cheaper than an OE bearing

mckellyb

In my history, a few front-end rebuilds, Moog has been the go-to, but it's been 10 years since I did front-end rebuilding like that and have settled on Beck-Arnley or whoever isn't Febest. I was bitten badly on some LCAs for a mid-90s W124. The car is long gone, but I still have those damned LCAs.

I typically check to see if Napa carries it. If so, it's usually not junk.

I have but a mere clicking when backing out of the garage in the morning. We have a rather steep driveway, so it doesn't surprise me something moves as the front wheels produce probably 75% of the braking power, for a very short time.

wakebord99

Thanks everyone for the updates keep them coming! Let's try to keep it in the format above :-)