Best Aftermarket Control Arms and Bushings
#17
Racer
Car Year: 2008
RWD/AWD: RWD
Which Control Arm(s): Front Upper control arms
Miles at Replacement: 90500
Miles since Replacement: 100
Control Arms or just Bushings: Control arm
Manufacturer: Dorman
Reseller: Rock Auto
Parts Cost: $160
Labor Cost: $0 !!!
Would you recommend (1 no --10 yes): Pending
Did the upper arms myself. Heard a slight knock on the driver's side and vibration at 70mph. At 90K the bushings were worn and cracked but the rubber was still somewhat solid. No special tools needed. I just removed the nuts on the upper struts and disconnect the sway bar end link from the lower control arm or either the sway bar. Beware of stripping the sway link hex head if you have old links. Disconnect the upper control arms at the ball joint then hammer them loose. I did not need to use my ball joint separator. Once loose the heavy brake rotor and caliper needs to be tied down otherwise you may snag and damage your brake hose. This method allows you to lower the control arm and pull the upper strut forward so you can access the bolts to remove the arms. I took my time and did it in 2 hours. If did it again, I'd fly thru it in an lhour. Guys, it's not hard at all and I saved hundreds on labor. This control arm "problem" is a Myth which made me hesitant to move on from my GS350. The old original ones lasted 9 years, There are many good aftermarket options and the DIY was easy for me. Any basic mechanic can do the job.
RWD/AWD: RWD
Which Control Arm(s): Front Upper control arms
Miles at Replacement: 90500
Miles since Replacement: 100
Control Arms or just Bushings: Control arm
Manufacturer: Dorman
Reseller: Rock Auto
Parts Cost: $160
Labor Cost: $0 !!!
Would you recommend (1 no --10 yes): Pending
Did the upper arms myself. Heard a slight knock on the driver's side and vibration at 70mph. At 90K the bushings were worn and cracked but the rubber was still somewhat solid. No special tools needed. I just removed the nuts on the upper struts and disconnect the sway bar end link from the lower control arm or either the sway bar. Beware of stripping the sway link hex head if you have old links. Disconnect the upper control arms at the ball joint then hammer them loose. I did not need to use my ball joint separator. Once loose the heavy brake rotor and caliper needs to be tied down otherwise you may snag and damage your brake hose. This method allows you to lower the control arm and pull the upper strut forward so you can access the bolts to remove the arms. I took my time and did it in 2 hours. If did it again, I'd fly thru it in an lhour. Guys, it's not hard at all and I saved hundreds on labor. This control arm "problem" is a Myth which made me hesitant to move on from my GS350. The old original ones lasted 9 years, There are many good aftermarket options and the DIY was easy for me. Any basic mechanic can do the job.
#18
Racer
Yes some movement is normal. Just look for cracks around the rubber bushing while you are twisting it.
#20
Need to do it again...
Just about 1 year...went with dorman for all 8....
labor was $350...
all are are bad now....
i am looking into b&a or mavotech or Moog...
not sure which way to go...
any direction is welcomed...I don’t want to keep doing this every year...I drive lowered with 22”...
i drive a good 40 miles a day...during the work week...
labor was $350...
all are are bad now....
i am looking into b&a or mavotech or Moog...
not sure which way to go...
any direction is welcomed...I don’t want to keep doing this every year...I drive lowered with 22”...
i drive a good 40 miles a day...during the work week...
#21
Just about 1 year...went with dorman for all 8....
labor was $350...
all are are bad now....
i am looking into b&a or mavotech or Moog...
not sure which way to go...
any direction is welcomed...I don’t want to keep doing this every year...I drive lowered with 22”...
i drive a good 40 miles a day...during the work week...
labor was $350...
all are are bad now....
i am looking into b&a or mavotech or Moog...
not sure which way to go...
any direction is welcomed...I don’t want to keep doing this every year...I drive lowered with 22”...
i drive a good 40 miles a day...during the work week...
I don't know if your scenario is the best example.
Usually I wouldn't even consider aftermarket for parts such as these, on a car such as this, but the difference in price between aftermarket and Lexus is surprising.
So, here I am.
#22
Just about 1 year...went with dorman for all 8....
labor was $350...
all are are bad now....
i am looking into b&a or mavotech or Moog...
not sure which way to go...
any direction is welcomed...I don’t want to keep doing this every year...I drive lowered with 22”...
i drive a good 40 miles a day...during the work week...
labor was $350...
all are are bad now....
i am looking into b&a or mavotech or Moog...
not sure which way to go...
any direction is welcomed...I don’t want to keep doing this every year...I drive lowered with 22”...
i drive a good 40 miles a day...during the work week...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
DrMikeinPD
LS - 4th Gen (2007-2017)
15
04-13-19 07:09 PM