1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

My car has the base model (non ML) system, and the clarity and volume is actually very good, I just need some bass to finish it off.

Has anyone upgraded the rear subwoofer to a higher powered model?

I'm thinking of adding a powerful JL audio 10 inch woofer to replace the stock woofer and then also adding a JL audio 12 inch in the trunk, and running them both off the same aftermarket amp.

Anyone done anything like this ?

Shibumi1

I don't think anyone one has. if u go this route tap the front door 6x9s for signal so u don't sub roll off past half volume.. but i dont recommend different size subs.. they each have a different audio "footprint" it will sound sloppy.. Also are u building an enclosure for the rear deck? the only freeair jl sub I'm aware of is marine..

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

Thanks man

Ive actually decided to just leave the stock system as-is , and just add a high powered single 12 inch jl audio to the rear

I have my old set up from my 430 sitting here, but its too big @2x12 , I want to keep as much trunk space as possible so that's my main concern

Shibumi1

ok cool.. but u should still grab signal from the front 6x9.. as there's no sub roll off from them or get a loc that fixes roll off..

sktn77a

iTrader: (2)

Doesn't the base system already have a subwoofer? If so, that would be your best bet to tap a signal for a boxed sub in the trunk.

I had the base system in my 2001 BMW 530 and it sounded pretty weak. But when I added a pair of 10" M5 subs with a suitable amp, it transformed the system entirely.

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

Yes the stock system has a weak subwoofer, but I need some real thump

I added 2x12's to my ls430 in the trunk and it was fine, I ran them off a brutus 1000 W monoblock amp

This time I'm going to go better with a jl woofer and a Rockford fosgate monoblock

Thanks guys

Shibumi1

unfortunately the oem sub is the worst place to grab signal. 1st: u lose upper range bass as its crossed over 60hz an down.. 2nd: there's a terrible roll off thru the factory amp.. after u reach 50% overall volume the sub volume no longer increases. only the mids. so if u grab signal from the 6x9s in the front doors (wired at the oem amp) u get full sub bass and mid bass. without the roll off issue of the rear sub..

Raid05

Any way to get signal from the head unit before the amp?

Junglequac

While it might be possible to tap the H/U, most car stereo shops when just adding a subwoofer tap the rear speaker wires. While not the most elegant solution, it can actually work quite well. Or sound quite well I should say.

If really wanting the best solution, JL Audio's CleanSweep is the best that I know of for integrating with a OEM H/U that cannot be swapped. Allows you the ability to relatively easily add outboard amplification, subwoofers, and so forth.

Tantrix

So far, nobody has been able to answer which infinite baffle sub would be a good replacement.

it just needs a more power handling sub thats suitable for IB environment. Then a small 100 watt micro amp to power it, this will allow the stock amp to drive only the front cabinspeakers.

but so far there has been no input on this badly needed mod

Tantrix

In fact, even the stock subwoofer ohm impedance is not confirmed.

vuong05

This is the correct way to do it.

Dr. Jekyll

iTrader: (1)

Because there really isn't any that will work. I added the boxed 10" JL sub for less than a grand and it's so powerful I can only use 25% before it gets too loud for me.

comotiger

Dr. J, good to see you are alive and kicking . Haven't heard from you in a while, welcome back!

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

Do you mind sharing the specs on your set up?

I'm looking for something compact as I need my trunk space for tools and such ....a high powered 10 inch sounds perfect for my needs right now