v8sprint

I need help to figure out why my suspension is sooo loud and clunky are doing a swaybar link and upper control arm replacement?
I did remove the air suspension unit in order to access and remove the bolts that hold the upper control arm bracket mount onto the frame.

I did not think that would do any harm.
Now my suspension is wayyyyy louder than it ever was to begin with.. I just did a visual inspection and saw that my original parts were cracked and worn in the bushings and links. So I did a swap.

Rhambler

Almost sounds like sway bar link rattle. I know I know, you changed them, but that kind of reminds of bad links and how they would move and rattle.

Not sure you want to do this, but try swapping back in your old links and see if goes away? That would require a lot of work on a gamble and guess, but by process of elimination, reduce the culprit.

But before doing that, I would wait to hear what others might offer in regards to advice.

v8sprint

Update: I had changed only the driver side lower control arm bushings.
I had that long bolt.. NOT TORQUED DOWN!!!
However I got that torqued to spec, and the sound persists minor..
Im going to have to do another vid.
To add insult to injury now.. I think the sound is derived from the brakes?!?

I need to do more on road testing.. but I do believe when I press the brakes over the same downward motion "bumps" more like holes.. that the sound is gone.

I changed the springs "ONLY" on the fronts.. I did Springs and Rotors on the rear. .

This sound DID NOT EXISTS before I changed all of these things.

So in all. I changed the driver and passenger front upper control arms (all) and the sway bar links, and the springs on the brakes/calipers.
I changed the lower control arm frame (long bolt) bushing on the driver side.

In order to remove the long bolt I lowered the steering rack from the frame.
In order to remove the upper arms I removed both AIR ride units- without disconnecting air

To sum more of my work, I replaced the lower control arm in the rear on both sides and the sway bar links on both sides; in the rear. Along with the brake/caliper springs and new rotors, in rear.

I HATE THAT THIS SOUNDS IS EXISTENT NOW, BUT NOT BEFORE.

v8sprint

I was actually half tempted to replace the new links with the old ones on the front also.. to eliminate doubts.

Doublebase

It's tough to tell what the noise is, but it's not uncommon for sway bar links to loosen up after you replace them. I'd go back and tighten them, especially where it kind of sounds "metalic", more than a thump. As for the brakes, I'd check my backing plates, maybe you moved one slightly when you worked on them. Really you're going to have to go back and check every bolt you loosened when you did the repair, but I bet it's the links.

superdenso

You could check the torque on the ball joints...in the vid it looks like the lower forward one has a bit of free-play. Try to re-torque it with the car on the ground. My dad once told me to do one job at a time to avoid this type of situation...hard to do when "multi-tasking" is runnin' amuck

v8sprint

I have swapped the new links to the old links, with no distinct changes.
I also re torqued all of the bolts to specs.
E.V.E.R.Y. bolt

I am getting under the front again to check the bullet proof skid plates and make sure they're all tight.
I am going to do some more GoPro work to try to pinpoint the problem.

Wish me Luck!

trbolvr

Try unbolting the links from the lower control arm and tie the sway bar up out of the way (if there is room), then retest and see if condition changes.

v8sprint

I found the culprit~!

My negligence

I had the bushings to replace the forward control arm on both sides. I was intending to replace that on my first driver side and unbolted the frame bushing mount.. and hand tightened it back up.
I didn't end up wanting to replace it because I didn't have the tool to press that large of the bushing! F*@k!!
Anyway I didn't even try on the passenger side soooooo

I guess I just didn't check that side of things because...
a) I failed to remember unbolting it- thinking I was going to replace the bushing..
b) The bolt was covered by the plastic liner and.. idk.. outta sight outta mind?.. mulligan?? please!?
c)

Nonetheless The rattle is gone!!

However THE passenger side has a caliper brake knock now.. I am going to open a separate thread with video I think.

v8sprint

superdenso

Which one did you miss on the forward contol arm. Was it the control arm to body or control arm to knuckle?

v8sprint

I missed the control arm to body. Large bushing with two 19mm bolt head and flange nut.

Talidtb

I have this annoying clunk noise on my 600. The whole entire front end it new. All control arms (8), sway bushings and links, both front air struts, ball joints and still. I hear it on both side but i must say the passenger side is much louder. It sounds like a worn ball joint with alot of play or a bad strut rattling around.I've had people and mechanics help to try to find the problem. Most is saying it sounds more towards the front and not in the wheel area of the car. And i agree. Put on lift by 2 different mechanics and both found nothing. 1 thight it was my height sensor links. So i changed them as well. No change. Sound still. When turning and driving slow u could hear the rattle very lightly. Sounds almost like a sway link bad. I've retighten sway bushing bracket and links. Sound still present. Im thinking to remove sway links next and tie them down and see if any change but i honestly dont see it being the links or bushings. it sounds like its under the hood almost but more forward. 😰

rssumme

Hi Tyler,

I was wondering how you go about mounting your go-pro in the wheel well? I have one but need guidance on how to secure it for my own testing. I have a very minor clunk and Im not sure where its coming from...

johnnyg66

I asked him that same question on another post. Didn't hear back but i am guessing he used one of the stick on mounts.