byroncat

While preparing to flush radiator we discovered the small plastic connector from the radiator to the overflow tube was broken off and apparently had been glued on in the past.
Does anyone if this is normal or Know how to repair it?

roadfrog

Some have had success by epoxying a new nipple. I had temporary success by tapping and then threading a brass nipple on until my new rad arrived. Those nipples are notorious for breaking. I leaned on mine while replacing my water pump. I had to replace the whole rad, but got it cheap on Ebay for about 60 bucks with a lifetime warranty!

Chaos236

iTrader: (1)

Normal, search it, my mechanic did the samething. Based on cost of aftermarket I replaced it.

byroncat

I agree with those who posted a response.
Lexus is making radiators CHEAP!
I had it replaced with an aftermarket radiator which I don't think should have had to be done @ 116,000 miles; I guess the Japanese are following the U.S. of twenty years ago by foregoing quality for price.
Thanks for the help of this forum - you made the decision easier and faster.
Byroncat

roadfrog

Not many people have had to replace their rads, so I don't think quality has suffered. As I stated, breaking mine was my fault as I leaned on the overflow tank connection and broke it. Rads are made of very thin material. 116000 miles on a radiator is pretty good IMHO.

CRowe14

After reading RF's statement, I thought I'd ask:
Did you have to replace your rad because of the broken nipple or because it was leaking?
I only ask for clarification because as RF pointed out, for the rad to go bad in this car isn't common, especially at 116k.
When looking through my cars history, I noted that my rad had been replaced at under 60k but it was because the tech was performing an inspection on the car, leaned over the front of the car to look at something deeper in the engine bay, and broke the nipple, so Lexus had to replace it, along with URH, drive belt and new fluid.
Typically speaking though, from what I understand, the rad's are pretty solid, as is the rest of the car.

Kennyr44

They clog up inside and also the fins get clogged pretty bad. 100k is time for a new radiator like changing plugs etc. To remove a hose from a plastic nipple you better heat it with a heat gun first and soften it up or it will break. Hell on my 91 LS you needed to heat anything plastic or rubber, everything was petrified. I just checked my new 07 and the water pump is shot, lots of dried up coolant that came from the weep hole on top. I'm ordering a radiator, thermostat, cap, water pump, serp belt and 2 hoses from RockAuto. $300. It only needs the water pump but I'm not going back in there twice.

CRowe14

Not to be on the negative side of things, but the idler pulley, if not done on recall, could be an issue. Tensioner pulley as well.
Not that these items are difficult to address, but oddly enough they are all in the same area you'll be in while taking care of the water pump.
I definitely hope you wont have to touch those items for quite a while, but just thought I'd make mention of it.
When I replaced my water pump and rad hoses, I thought the exact thing:
I had NO desire to go in twice-even though I had to because mine leaked upon the initial repair.
So I had no choice but to go back in!

Kennyr44

Ive thought about the tensioner and idler pulley and figured it wouldnt be a big deal to go into those later if I had to for noise. My main concern is not wanting to open up the cooling system twice.

CRowe14

Indeed!
I completely understand.

GR6RR

I broke my **** while changing out the idler pully and tensioner ... taking it out, I was very cautious. But when tightening everything back up, my forearm put some pressure on the area and off it broke. Good luck!