Changing out my coolant tomorrow. Should I post a DIY?
 

As stated in the thread title.

Should I post pics and a how-to DIY? I did a search, but didn't see a post about this.

I was also going to do a write-up on changing the serpentine belt, but I see there's already one on that service.

Go for it!

Most definitely. We all may need it at some point.

Yes, definitely, but I'll probably wait for the movie. :D

Heck yes, I would love to see that! I've seen drain and fills on my LS400 and an LS430 we had in the shop. They had drain cocks on each side of the block in addition to the radiator drain. It would be very interesting just to see what it looks like under there with the belly shields pulled off. If the LS 460 has block drains and you use them, be gentle tightening them. You may be pleasantly surprised at how clean the old coolant will probably look. All aluminum engines are often remarkably easy on their coolant.

That would be a great addition. :thumbup:

YES go for it

I would imagine if you are going to undo all of the taps including the ones on the engine block you may want to turn the heater on while adding coolant. Also I would read the service manual to see if there is a bleeding procedure. Some of the newer cars these days need to be bleed otherwise you may over heat the engine if a trapped bubble gets suck at the water pump impellers.

Post it. Its always helpful.

Well.....its all on hold for now. While replacing my serpentine belt, I broke the reservoir tank fitting on the rad. Same problem another member here had. He warned us, but I managed to break it anyway. Argh. So I'm working around that for now....have to repair it temporarily until my new rad arrives.

But wait...there's more! LOL. I also need a water pump. There was a huge clump of dried coolant around it, so apparently it's hooped too. Fortunately, neither of these parts are expensive - $60 for the rad with lifetime warranty and 55 for the water pump. Just have to wait for shipping.

this was a blessing..

Exactly. It also explains the couple of tbsp. of coolant I was adding every week. A VERY small leak/weeping that would only have gotten worse.

Guess I have another DIY post to do! LOL.

Stay tuned.......water pump goes in tomorrow. The rad will get replaced next week (and another DIY!) The rad I fixed with a barb fitting and it isn't leaking, but I'll replace it nonetheless.

I changed my coolant the other day...my internal struggle was weather to go with the super long life or the zerex Asian. I ended up going with the super long life because I knew I wasn't going to be able to get all the fluid out (which I didn't). I managed to change maybe a gallon and a half.

The bleeder port is right on top of the upper hose. I tried to get to the block drains, but I couldn't from underneath, I'd be willing to bet I could of come in from the sides if the tires were off. I plan on dumping the radiator again in a month or so to get as much new fluid in as I can. I paid 18 bucks per gallon for the toyota coolant...it was 13 for the zerex. The coolant looked pretty darn good when I was draining it...if that was dex cool it would of looked like cake batter.

Yeah, I couldn't get at the draincocks at the block either. However, because I replaced the water pump, radiator and all hoses, I was able to get more of the fluid out than you did. I'm good with that as I will now be replacing the coolant every few years. I went with the Toyota Super LL as well. I've had very good luck with Zerex in the past and it is quality, but I'm determined to stick with OEM lubricants as much as possible with this car.

Did you ever replace your water pump? If so how big of a task was it?

Yes I did. Pretty simple really.

1. After you get all the engine covers off and drain the coolant, you want to remove the coolant reservoir tank.

2. Remove the air inlets.

3. Remove the belt

4. Disconnect the dipstick tube. You aren't removing it, you're just moving it aside.

5. Remove the water pump pulley.....YOU DON'T NEED a special tool (SST), mine removed easily with just a socket and a pry bar or screwdriver to hold the pulley in place.

6. Remove the water pump. When you replace the pump, I would make sure you torque the bolts all in proper sequence. All the bolts have different torque specs. Lots of diagrams on google that will tell you the specs and sequence.

I also replaced all my hoses and all told, I think it took me about 2 hours (including refilling the coolant and purging the air), and cost me 75 dollars for the pump and hoses.

MAKE SURE YOU USE TOYOTA COOLANT. Or, you can also use Zerex Asian Formula coolant that you can find anywhere. But FWIW, Toyota coolant was only a dollar more per jug, so why bother?

Awesome, thanks. I had to add coolant to my reservoir. Not a significant amount, but my car is used and I've always had lexus do the maintenance, so I don't know if it's a gradual loss over a long period of time or not. Couldnt find pink deposits on the water pump either.

Did you clear everything out of the way to check for deposits? I couldn't see any either until I did. The deposits were around a bolt at the top middle of the pump. If not, I guess I'd let it go and monitor how much you're adding before delving deeper into where it's going. Or just go ahead and replace the pump as a precaution and rule that out.

No I did not clear everything to look. I'll look at it more closely this spring.