Burning through rotors
 

I bought my car certified pre-owned in April 2010. I complained about the pulsating in May. I was told something about the electronic braking, yadda yadda yadda. About a year later I am told my rotors need replacing. Luckily it was documented that I had made the complaint right after getting the car, so it was covered (I had gone about 12,500 miles - just out of warranty of course).

A year later I am told I need new rotors again. This time all four had to be replaced.

Now it about nine months later and I am feeling the pulsating and shudder again. I do not ride my brakes, nor do I do any mountain or hilly terrain driving. It's all flat and highway mainly. When I bought the car I lived in Seattle, and have since moved to Mobile. The only common factor is the rain. However, Seattle is a little rain over a long period and Mobile is a lot of rain over short periods.

Any thoughts or ideas I? Thanks for any insight.

Tom

Are you sure that they said rotors need to be replaced and not turned or cut due to runout?

There is lots of meat on the LS rotors. They ussally can be turned or cut many times before they are below minimum specs.

JR

Do you use the electronic parking brake? If so that leaves indentations on the rotors causing the pulsing that you feel when you apply the brakes. My car is generally parked on a level surface so I don't use the parking brake.

brake rotors
 

The maintence guru 's say that 95% of warped rotors are due to improper torquing of the luhg nuts.They rely on a BMW study done a few years ago.Always use a torque wrench rather than an air gun to tighten the nuts.

is the electronic parking brake using the pads and rotors? i always thought it was another set of "braking" system similar to a drum braking system that doesn't use (or separate) from the disc brake system... maybe it's different on a LS..

the electric brakes are seperate from the disc and are like a drum set up. so not sure where that assumption was from. impact guns warp rotors.

Excellent responses! I don't recall if they were turned each time. I am pretty certain the rotors were replaced this last time. I will have to go dig out my service paperwork.

I will ensure the service shop doing the tire rotation uses a torque wrench rather than the impact wrench to finish tightening the lug nuts. I had never heard of the rotors warping due to over torquing, but I guess that's why there's a torque specification. I had just assumed it was for safety.

I have been considering replacing my rotors and pads and going with Ceramic. I think I'll go review the forum for discussion about that move.

Thanks again everyone!

Tom

Based on the way you said you drive, I would say Marylandlp is right on the mark. My mechanic only uses the air wrench to remove the lug nuts, never to tighten them. That is all done by hand with a torque wrench.

I highly recommend Akebono pads. I got that recommendation in this forum and they are the best pads ever. The wheels on my wife's Jag would look like crap 2 days after I washed her car. Now with the Akebono pads the wheels are the cleanest part of the car. Guys here recommended http://www.placeforbrakes.com/produc...&car_year=2007 and I second that!

those rotors should last at least 80-100k. of course that number can change depending on driving style and conditions. the others are correct about impact guns causing warped rotors. the effect of the impacts on rotor warpage does depend on the guy behind the gun.

FYI, a lot of times when rotors need replacement early it's because they were machined incorrectly. this will not only cause pulsation issues but will mean too much metal was take off the rotors in machining. sadly, it happens ALL THE TIME. have no idea if that's the cause of your problem, but just throwing that out there.

one very very very very very rare cause of pulsations that refuse to go away is a warped hub. that's more for general info on pulsations.......doubt that's what you're battling. with warped hubs the pulsation never really goes away, even with new rotors.

I probably gave you no solutions there. sorry bout that. But LS brakes are very good and should last a long time. I wouldn't change brakes. I would try and find out how someone is messing them up. (either driver or technician)

I am having the exact same issue. Replaced rotors and pads at 39K and 49K and now at 59K they are in need again. I am open to any and all suggestions. Thanks.

Lexus rotors are notoriously prone to warpage. Mine were replaced several times with warpage appearing shortly after. I purchased a set of Bendix on Ebay for 60 dollars including free shipping. and the warpage has not returned.

Rotors
 

Roadfrog,
Thanks for the information. This is very useful and I will respond with what I finally end up doing for everyone's information. I will investigate different brands. geolyte!

No worries. FWIW, I know others here have used different rotors than mine and also had success with eliminating warpage. Also, from what I saw on Ebay, all the sellers there offer free replacement and warranty against warpage.

My CPO '11 460 had rotor problems when I first bought it and I asked for new rotors. Lexus said they don't replace rotors under warranty, they turn them, even if the car were new.

That's BS you're being fed. Lexus replaced TWO sets of rotors on my CPO 2007 LS460. The second set were actually replaced AFTER the CPO warranty had expired. I had to battle a bit on that one, but I had ample evidence of braking complaints prior to the warranty expiration. Don't take "no" for an answer...

P.S. Of course, the crappy rotors Lexus supplies are really not worth fighting for, but I suppose that's another issue entirely - or is it?