LS460 & LS600hL Oil Change Procedure w/pics
 

EQUIPMENT & CONSUMABLES:

1. Rhino Ramps 12000 - The 8000 ramps are OK, but for $10 more, the 12000 is safer.
2. Mechanic’s Creeper (optional). For an extra 4 inch clearance, avoid using altogether.
3. Drain tray/waste oil container - 12 quart capacity.
4. Calibrated torque wrench 1/2” drive.
5. 1/2” drive ratchet.
6. 1/2” drive extension bar x 6” long.
7. 3/8” drive extension bar x 6” long.
8. 3/8” drive ratchet.
9. 14mm socket (use for oil drain plug).
10. 10mm socket (use for flap capscrew).
11. 15/16” socket (use with 64mm socket hex).
12. Assenmacher TOY 640 64mm/14 flats, oil filter socket - US$15.95 (www.toolsource.com)
13. Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W-20 Oil x 9 liters (9.5 US quarts) US$36 (Walmart).
14. Toyota Oil Filter Element - Part No. 04152-YZZA5 - C$7.85 (Open Road Lexus).
15. Toyota Oil Drain Plug Gasket - Part No. 90430-12031 - C$0.60 (Regency Toyota).
16. Paper Towels.

PROCEDURE:

1. The engine should be cold or slightly warm before attempting this procedure. Raise vehicle’s pneumatic suspension using the “HEIGHT-HIGH” setting on the console. This gives an additional 3 inch clearance and you will need it. Turning the engine off does not lower the vehicle, and you will need to lower it afterward.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u89/LS460/IMG_0.jpg

2. Position the ramps at the desired working point and slowly approach the ramps – it is prudent to have someone act as a guide for this approach. Center the ramps to the tires and slowly drive forward and up until the wheels are nested in front of the stop. Place car in Park which should set the automatic parking brake.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u89/LS460/IMG_01.jpg

3. Avoid removing the oil fill cap on the engine at this time, as doing so will increase the oil drain flow pressure and possibly make a mess.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u89/LS460/IMG_07.jpg

4. Slide under car. You should see a hinged plastic flap towards the front held closed with a 10mm capscrew. Remove the capscrew and this flap should flip forward easily. This now exposes the oil filter housing - the black housing cap is made of heat resistant plastic.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u89/LS460/IMG_03.jpg

5. Use the 3/8" drive ratchet and 6” extension to remove the oil filter drain screw cap. Position your oil pan below to catch the oil. Take the supplied plastic drain pipe and snap it into the filter housing cap opening. This requires a bit of force to overcome the spring loaded seal. Once in place, any oil in the housing will drain. Forcibly remove the drain pipe, and using the TOY640 64mm filter socket - fitted to the 1/2” drive x 6” extension and the 15/16” socket, slowly loosen and remove it, being careful not to the damage the side grounding tab. Remove the filter above your oil pan, and clean up the cap and the engine filter housing. This socket is a perfect fit and does not bind like other brands that have been reported.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u89/LS460/IMG_04.jpg

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u89/LS460/IMG_14.jpg

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u89/LS460/IMG_15.jpg

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u89/LS460/IMG_12.jpg

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u89/LS460/IMG_13.jpg

cont'd...

LS600hL Oil Change Procedure... cont'd
 

6. Move your oil pan beneath the drain plug and remove the exposed 14mm oil drain plug. This will take some effort and possibly a longer bar (torque wrench works well) to break the nut loose. Drain the oil; this will take about 15-20 minutes. While the oil is draining, remove the oil filler cap on the engine to accelerate the flow. The oil drain plug gasket does stick to the oil pan and can be loosened with a sharp knife or a thin scraper. Clean the gasket seat area.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u89/LS460/IMG_02.jpg

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u89/LS460/IMG_05.jpg

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u89/LS460/IMG_06.jpg

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u89/LS460/IMG_09.jpg

7. While the oil is draining, remove and replace the large O-ring. Lubricate it with thin clean oil film. Roll it into place rather than stretch or drag to prevent any damage. Locate a new filter element into the now clean housing. Thread the filter cap back into place by hand to prevent cross threading until the rubber O-ring contacts the housing. Use the 64mm filter socket on the torque wrench to seat the cap until it bottoms out; torque to 25 N∙m… 18-20 lb-ft. Check that the grounding tab is contacting the upper housing.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u89/LS460/IMG_16.jpg

8. Replace the small O-ring at the base and thread the drain bolt back in place; torque to 12.5 N∙m… 9-10 lb-ft after applying a thin oil film to the O-ring as above.

9. Place a new drain plug gasket on the drain plug and torque to 30 lb-ft.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u89/LS460/IMG_08.jpg

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u89/LS460/IMG_11.jpg

10. Use a funnel to refill the engine - 9 liters (9.5 US Quarts) of full synthetic, blended or conventional oil and replace cap and hinged cover.

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u89/LS460/IMG_10.jpg

11. Start the engine and check for leaks. Close the oil filter housing access cover with the 10mm capscrew. Slowly back the car down and away from the car ramps.

12. Clean up and deliver the used oil to a local oil collection and recycling center.

Time to complete: 30-45 minutes

Note: This procedure can be applied to the LS460; only the filter is different...

nice Type R..

You checkin' out my garage? :) Very low mileage. I was wondering who would spot that...

Very Very nice. Is this the exact for the LS460?
Thanks for the instructions.

DAmn, low miles? I used to have 01-0618 NHBP Type R for 5 years and end up selling them because too many Thieves everywhere kept stealing Honda.. Oh well nice car then!!

Great post

Thanks for sharing, Burnaby! Very informative. :thumbup:

Excellent write-up. Moderators...can this please be set up as a sticky note for future reference?

Great write up!! I've never been under this car yet...thats unusual for me.

Great documentation with pics.

I'll bet my non hybrid does not have those funny fat orange looking high voltage wires :D

Burnaby, great post and you know that I love you man, but what the hell are you thinking or do you have way too much time on your hands?!

I have done just about every repair and maintenance function you can on a car including rebuilding an engine (but I never did a transmission rebuild unlike Mona Lisa Vito) but I never changed my own oil except once or twice when I was real young. It was either too messy (as shown in the 3rd pic in step 6) or just too cheap not to have someone else do it.

I know what Lexus dealers charge is practically criminal, but at this stage of my life, I figure if I can afford the car, I can afford to have someone else do the oil change.

Burnaby, I'm serious, but this is all meant in good humor and certainly no offense is intended. :)

NSZ, I'm hurt... :cry: After all these years... :confused: Time? I retired at 52... :)

Actually, up until ten years back, I always maintained my cars; brakes, oil, grease, electrics, etc., you name it. The only thing I didn't touch was the tranny and the engine and that only because they took more time that I had. I'm a mechanical engineer by profession, and I don't really do it save money, but to satisfy my curiosity. So, when this mechanical wonder came along, I salivated at the prospect of getting down and dirty with it.

Crawling under has allowed me to marvel at this technological wonder that is the LS, so it will indeed be hard to keep me from doing so. Expect more simplified procedures like these, and I hope it serves the interests of those who are not only trying to save a couple of bucks, but also to remove the trepidation when getting warm & fuzzy with their car.

Oh yeah, I love you 2... :p

Thank you for the compliments, everyone!

One thing I might add... I always trusted the dealer on my previous 460 and now the 600 (I know, big mistake). But at the back of my mind I know human nature will frequently take the easy way out and that's when laziness rises to the occasion. There are two O-ring seals on the filter cap, a large one on the main body, and a smaller one on the filter drain nut.

Two scheduled oil changes had already been done by the dealer. However, I could easily tell the drain nut had never been removed. The oil in that area had gelled, and the nut was very had to break loose (iow, it had never been touched from the beginning). While not a critical change, that O-ring should be replaced, as per Toyota specs. We pay for a thorough service after all. So many things go on in places we don't have access to - and even if we did, we certainly couldn't stand next to the mechanic the whole time. Oil changes are often performed by the less savvy, if not junior staff. To me anyway, it's a constant reminder that there is no substitute for DIY.

What I was going to say, but I can see why you might want to do this yourself. Great write up, although I have not lifted the hood on any of my cars for over 10 years now and I used to work part time with a mechanic when I was in high school.:p

See Burnaby, I'm not completely crazy, Dave is a little off his rocker as well!

Actually what I wanted to say is you are right to question the quality of the work you get at some of these dealerships. I'm guessing it could even get worse with this economy. When push comes to shove, who is the dealer going to retain, an experienced certified mechanic pulling in big bucks, or a much lower paid apprentice learning to be certified??????

I have a friend who is a pilot and owns a couple planes. He became so dismayed over the quality of service on his planes, that he took a couple months to attend mechanic's school in Florida so he could be certified to service his own planes. Now he flies with much greater peace of mind!

Burnaby, I'd be willing to give you apprentice rate to come over and do my oil changes. :)