When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So, here's what I did and I appreciate comments and suggestions.
I topped up the oil, again I'm using 0W20, and it was freaking cold last week here -20c or -4F, then I drove to work my normal drive to work takes 45miles/ 70 km, and for a few miles about 20 miles or 37 km I put on manual shifting and downshifted it to 2nd gear at 50mph or 80 km/h so the RPM was quite high steady about 5000 rpm, in an attempt to try to unlock the piston rings. not sure if I did the right thing I think the oil burn was astronomical because it even threw in some misfire and cat codes briefly that eventually went away, I didn't feel any loss in performance but the biggest issue then was a low oil warning on the dash that came and went as soon as I lowered the revs, and remember I topped up the oil before driving it.
I pulled over and popped the hood, the engine idles beautifully and steady, no knocking sounds or anything out of the ordinary other than the very possible massive oil burning, the idle purring so quiet makes me refuse to believe that it's the end of the line for this engine.
Please tell me you didn't try that when the engine was cold?
You also can't really use RPM only like that when he consumption is moderate/severe, you need to pull the plugs out and add some sort of solvent to get the carbon on the rings softened. Otherwise you are just dragging them and it will not free up, the high rpm/high load only works for light issues and to keep it freed up after a fix/before an issue happens.
You also need to make sure your plugs aren't fouled out if you have severe burning and that the cats were not damaged as well
You may be a candidate for a couple of oil changes with this elixer....
I have never used it but if you read the comments of many that have commented after the video, it seems to have made a difference in oil consumption for many of the users.
In general , from my reading of other sites, doing a full engine flush is taking a chance that too much is dislodged too quickly and can lead to serious issues.
Check it out,
"Valvoline Restore and Protect" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyyZDghgdCI&t=5s
I switched to this oil after seeing a YouTube video with a guy who had a LS460 he said after doing the 4 oil changes he said his car stopped burning oil. I think it's worth a try I'm on my first oil change at the moment. I think I'll switch to 5w20 on the next oil change though and see how the car responds.
For reference I've been using Pennzoil ultra and Kirkland fully synthetic oil on this car for the last 60k miles. I'm now at 189k miles
Please tell me you didn't try that when the engine was cold?
You also can't really use RPM only like that when he consumption is moderate/severe, you need to pull the plugs out and add some sort of solvent to get the carbon on the rings softened. Otherwise you are just dragging them and it will not free up, the high rpm/high load only works for light issues and to keep it freed up after a fix/before an issue happens.
You also need to make sure your plugs aren't fouled out if you have severe burning and that the cats were not damaged as well
Sorry for taking a bit to respond Striker,
I waited till the engine was fully wam to do high rpm, I didn't know my oil consumption would be this high if I did that. about the plugs I'd probably guess that at this point even though they're fairly new, because of the oil consumption they might be fouled. I think I will start with a few oil changes with that valvoline everyone seems to be talking about and increase the viscosity from 0w20 to 5w30 and reduce the oil change intervals to maybe 2k miles then if no joy after a few tries, I will take that approach you mentioned, but I am not super confident in my abilities to do that that's why I would try this second, and I don't think any shop would do this following all your instructions as well as I would. and if nothing works, maybe it's gonna be time for a new used engine from the junk yard.
I switched to this oil after seeing a YouTube video with a guy who had a LS460 he said after doing the 4 oil changes he said his car stopped burning oil. I think it's worth a try I'm on my first oil change at the moment. I think I'll switch to 5w20 on the next oil change though and see how the car responds.
For reference I've been using Pennzoil ultra and Kirkland fully synthetic oil on this car for the last 60k miles. I'm now at 189k miles
Good point, I will do that. I am not gonna get desperate just yet haha, will try that, I drove around 500 km 300miles, checked the oil and didn't see any change on the level so far.
In my 2008 Base I use 1 ltr every 2000 KMS.
Mostly hiway between KW and Wiarton.
0W20
I've used Kirkland, Mobil one but I've saved quite a bit of money using Walmart full synthetic.
I use good filters. (OEM)
I have used Kirkland 0-20 for a long time. I do my own oil changes at 5K, with a Toyota filter.
My 2008 LS used about a quart every 1000 miles. No blue smoke from the tailpipe, so I don't know where it was going. Surprised me the first time the oil indicator said low oil. Checked weekly after that.
Now I have a 2014 LS, drive the same as the 2008, but now no oil used at all. 2014 has 135K miles. Same oil and filters.
I have used Kirkland 0-20 for a long time. I do my own oil changes at 5K, with a Toyota filter.
My 2008 LS used about a quart every 1000 miles. No blue smoke from the tailpipe, so I don't know where it was going. Surprised me the first time the oil indicator said low oil. Checked weekly after that.
Now I have a 2014 LS, drive the same as the 2008, but now no oil used at all. 2014 has 135K miles. Same oil and filters.
In my 2008 Base I use 1 ltr every 2000 KMS.
Mostly hiway between KW and Wiarton.
0W20
I've used Kirkland, Mobil one but I've saved quite a bit of money using Walmart full synthetic.
I use good filters. (OEM)
Dan
2008 LS460 Obsidian
2017 Tundra Black
My 2012 LS460L with 105k miles just started leaking oil after a 0w-20 Kirkland oil change and it looks like the dreaded Fuel Pump Gasket leak on each side the engine valve cover.
Since the spark plugs will be needing to be replaced soon, that would be a good time to change all these rubber gaskets that turn brittle with age and heat. It sure would be nice if Toyota/Lexus used longer lasting silicon gaskets.
I found using AT-205 seal rejuvenator has drastically slowed down and pretty much stopped this oil leak for the time being.
I cringed when he took the drivers side fuel lines off and didn't hold the 19mm fitting with a wrench when doing the top nut with a friggin crescent wrench, maybe that's why the didn't show a startup at the end ??
I cringed when he took the drivers side fuel lines off and didn't hold the 19mm fitting with a wrench when doing the top nut with a friggin crescent wrench, maybe that's why the didn't show a startup at the end ??
I always scream a little inside when that happens......
use 0w20 valvoline restore and protect with 3 consecutive oil changes with 2500-3000 miles intervals. Use a high-quality oil filter. It brought down the oil consumption to virtually zero.
I am a huge believer in the Valvoline Premium restore product. I have used it in all of my cars now one of which is a 2013 LS460 with 133K. It was starting to use a touch of oil at 110k. My recipe was 1 change of Valvoline PBR 5k miles, a change or two of the Valvoline R&P 5w-30 (5k miles) another round of Valvoline PBR and the last fill was 5w-30 Valvoline R&P. Changed to oil today and I am very happy to say it had 0 oil consumption in 4-5k miles. I will say the oil was BLACK today at 4,500 miles…. The filter was clean with no shiny particales nor any black carbon particles. I think I am going to change it at 2,500 miles (oil only) to see how dirty the oil is.