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Ive written about it in many threads related to oil use here, has worked in over 35 cars from various brands now
I'm sorry I'm new here didn't see those treads yet, could you kindly send the link or the name of the topic for the ones the discussion took place? I'm curious to see your POV on how you fixed it on yours.
I will think about it, but I don't think there's any sludge in my engine, usually you can see clear signs of sludge on the oil cap, and by simply looking inside on the valve cover, mine looks clean too, I will do another oil change with the kirkland one and analize more precisely how much oil it's taking. I'm just not sure how this engine is supposed to be checked, I always knew it was supposed to be with a cold engine first thing in the morning but the CCN said a few times that the Lexus engine has to be checked warm, I assumed after a few minutes so the oil comes down fully to the pan.
Oil consumption is related to carbon build preventing the piston rings from properly sealing the combustion chamber. Over time carbon builds, piston rings get sticky or stuck. That’s when oil gets pass the piston rings and ends up getting burnt in the combustion chamber. Valvoline claims to have proof that after 4 oil change Intervals their oil cleans the carbon accumulated on the pistons, the piston rings and ringland. If true, it is impressive stuff. I’m actually on my 3rd Valvoline Restore and Protect oil change. My engine only has 71000 miles and does not burn any oil. I use Restore and protect as a preventive measure to keep the piston rings from getting excessive carbon build.
Last edited by NYIS300awdFS; Jan 1, 2025 at 09:26 PM.
You may be a candidate for a couple of oil changes with this elixer....
I have never used it but if you read the comments of many that have commented after the video, it seems to have made a difference in oil consumption for many of the users.
In general , from my reading of other sites, doing a full engine flush is taking a chance that too much is dislodged too quickly and can lead to serious issues.
Check it out,
"Valvoline Restore and Protect" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyyZDghgdCI&t=5s
Ive actually been using the Restore and Protect motor oil the last 2 oil changes and haven’t noticed a decrease in oil consumption.
Hopefully after this next oil change, things will improve, but I am going to go back to the 5W30 oil and see if any improvements have been made in oil consumption reduction.
No smoke, I use 5w-20 Valvoline Full Synthetic and go about 7500 between changes. I burn about a quart in between changes. Next change I'm going to go up to 5w-30, but I don't expect that to change much. I currently have 115k miles on my 2013.
No smoke, I use 5w-20 Valvoline Full Synthetic and go about 7500 between changes. I burn about a quart in between changes. Next change I'm going to go up to 5w-30, but I don't expect that to change much. I currently have 115k miles on my 2013.
You’re lucky. My car smokes, therefore it’s definitely burning oil. Being an 07 these early 460’s are known to be oil burners.
I’ll report back after I change to the Restore and Protect 5W30 and see if oil consumption has decreased.
I’ll report back after I change to the Restore and Protect 5W30 and see if oil consumption has decreased.
I can see how it might make a difference short term if it hasn't been left too long but it's not a fix and never has been or car dealers would be using it instead doing short blocks on warranty repairs...dealers of any brand make very little on warranty parts and labour is heavily discounted so most claims are a loss.
If you go a long time with the rings seized you will score the bores and it will always burn oil. If this has been going on for a while then I would leakdown test and scope the bores first, it will not save you if there is too much damage.
What I do is directly apply carbon solvents to the rings via the spark plug holes and let it soak for 12+ hours and rotate the engine every 4 and top them back off.
B12 chemtool works and isn't as risky as seriously strong options, you need to have a vac extractor to remove the cleaner that remains in the chambers to avoid hydrolock risk as well. The car will likely not start/really struggle to start unless you add a 1/3 Oz of oil to each cylinder after removing the cleaner. Engine oil also must be changed as it will be extremely contaminated and thinned.
Then you need to go drive the car, once up to temp drive it hard as possible with long pulls to redline. Rings work/seal from combustion pressure pressing them outwards and a lot of the problem is people do not ever use the engines at higher power levels and that further encourages the rings to lock up.
This has worked on 4 LSs, 15+ Hyundais, 3 7 series, 3 Audi 3.0Ts, 5 Camrys, and a few Subarus among some other cars of various makes with low tension oil rings. I've had no failures or recurring issues from this nor was damage caused by it.
I'm currently running an experiment with the new valoline oil because if it works like their Cummins developed premium blue diesel engine restore oil then it very well may work. Current test subjects are two Volvo T5 turbo engines that were eating 1 quart in 400-500 miles and one fouled it's plugs out from it and caused miss-fires, next is that 2017 Hyundai I sold with the same issue, a 2003 passat 2.8 that is known for oil sludge, and last is a 2005 corolla that is eating oil but not missing from it as the rate is slow at 1.2 quarts per oil change interval.
All owners are aware of the experiment and are following what I say to do and are reporting back, I'm having one Volvo change oil every 2k and the other is remaining on 5k and both are pulling samples and cold checking oil level every 500 miles. Both cars are owned by the same person. So far it looks very promising, the short interval Volvo has reduced consumption to 1/4 quart at 1000 miles and the 2017 Hyundai has a massive reduction from 1 quart in 250 miles to .5 in 1750.
They were also all told to full pull redline their engines when oil temp is fully warm on their daily drives as well. So far oil samples don't show anything alarming/wrong and bore scope images show it very well may be as effective as the Cummins oil is
Last edited by Striker223; Jan 2, 2025 at 04:20 PM.
Understanding and Managing Oil Consumption in Older Vehicles
Oil consumption in higher-mileage engines (like 155k miles/250k km) isn’t unusual. Losing 1.3 liters over 3200 km may be normal wear or a sign of minor issues like valve seals or piston rings.
To stay on top of this:
Check Oil Frequently: Monitor levels every 1000–1500 km, especially in cold weather.
Use High-Quality Oil: Synthetic oils, such as Castrol, ensure better engine protection.
Schedule Inspections: Pair oil changes with professional checks to catch potential issues early.
For peace of mind, consult a trusted mechanic. If you're in Toronto, Just In Time Auto Service offers dependable oil changes and complimentary inspections to keep your car performing at its best.
Yeah I believe they used low tension rings early on, it was a problem for me. At around 150,000 miles the oil consumption really started ramping up to the point of 1 quart every 500-700 miles.
I think an easy way to check rings is simply remove your air snorkel to the throttle body and hold open your throttle body plate…shine a light in there, if there’s oil pooled up in that intake manifold you have too much blow by past those rings and the oil is seriously tracking up through the PCV valve system. Mine became so bad that the oil was tracking in the snorkel itself.
I’d be really curious to see if some of the cleaners and oils suggested on this thread will cure the problem. Especially the Valvoline Restore and Protect - curios to see if that oil is more than just excellent marketing.
If the rings are just stuck, Berryman B-12 works well but it is labor intensive. If the rings are worn down, there is not much you can do but switch to higher oil viscosity which might have problems on its own.
If the rings are just stuck, Berryman B-12 works well but it is labor intensive. If the rings are worn down, there is not much you can do but switch to higher oil viscosity which might have problems on its own.
The labor part is why I'm running a test on this new oil, if it somehow works exactly as advertised it will be a great option.
FYI you can use 5w40 in the LS460/600h, I’ve attached the owners manual from Japan below.
0w20 is recommended and is the factory fill but you can use 5w40 if the temperatures don’t go below -20 Celsius.
Please don't. You always want to run the thinnest oil possible for a given HTHS requirement for a given engine. Thinner oil cools parts better, flows faster, and allows hydraulic systems to work more effectively.....
About the heaviest weight that makes sense is a XX-30 for these engines and if you are tracking it add an oil cooler.
Understanding and Managing Oil Consumption in Older Vehicles
