2007 LS460L 114,000 miles. CEL, VSC light, and Check VSC System illuminated. Pulled a P0020 code indicating #2 (Right) bank, timing motor, or gear issue. Found several related threads, but looking for clarification on installation. Lexus shop manual and related threads don’t specify any calibration procedure for the timing motor, or the internal gearing in the engine. Looks like you just line it up in any position, irrespective of gear or spindle calibration and it just bolts to the engine. Has anyone had experience with this procedure?
Lexus wants $1500 for the timing motor, so I’m reluctantly going to try a used motor, with a new O-ring to save some money. Labor looks like less than an hour to me. Famous last wordsI know. Any insight is appreciated.

That code is telling you the VVTi actuator is not working properly very likely you simply need to replace it (don't cheap out buy a Toyota part). There is no timing procedure available the engine computer does that automatically.

Thanks LeX2K, that’s what I needed to know. I appreciate your help.

The cutout inside the gear only takes motor's shaft end in one possible position. Almost fool proof.

Thanks for the tip Boykie! The less ambiguity the better. If it’s almost fool proof, I’ve got a fighting chance.

Just in case someone references this thread for their P0020 CEL VSC light I wanted to close the thread with my results
I was able to clear the code after replacing the right bank (#2) camshaft motor. I installed a used eBay motor after insuring that the part numbers were the same. Dealer wanted $1500 for the part, eBay was $164. I purchase a new rubber gasket online. Simple job, took less than an hour. Three bolts hold the motor and two electrical connectors. There is a YouTube titled, “ Lexus ISF intake cam motor. Good vs Old.”. In the video the poster shows the armature spin on his new motor, being much longer duration, and more freely spinning than his old motor. He implied this was a test of usability. In my case, both old a new motor spun freely, but there must have been a circuit failure in the motor I replaced. Rolling the dice on a salvage motor, but with the ease of the job and price differential, I figure it’s worth the gamble. Thanks for the help fellas.

Congrats. Tolerances inside that unit are really tight, so it's rarely obvious and mechanical failure. More like increased/decreased coil resistance or something like that.
Funny statistic - B2 always the one to go, never B1.