08 460 w/ 120k miles.
Delayed/Jerky shifting into Reverse
Delayed/flaring into 3-4 shift
2 Fluid changes including filter, in the last 3k miles (last was done last weekend by myself) w/ Toyota WS, fluid condition is clean and clear (unburnt or clutch material fowled)
P2714/P2808 codes intermittently w/ associated check eng light.
I believe the part numbers Ill need are Toyota 35240-50090 and Toyota 82125-50061
Ive searched and read up a lot on this problem and have isolated it based on the above to the solenoids, seeing as these transmissions are relatively bulletproof aside from this problem. I am wondering if anyone has any write ups with pictures (im an idiot) of what they did when pulling the valve body to do the repair, and if there are any special notes associated with removal of these components. Also if someone smarter than me can please verify my part numbers are correct.
Thanks.

 

It's been discussed here a lot. Fluid changes must follow protocols from Lexus. Specifically, refilling fluid at a 95 degree f temperature. If the trans is too warm when filled, it ends up underfilled and causes similar issues to what you're having.

 

Hi dear, did you ever solved the issue, i am having the exact issue on my lexus.
Thanks

 

I have this same issue, and the fluid level is correct. IDK if solenoids alone will fix it or if i need to replace the entire valve body. The trans does not slip at all, it just has issues going into reverse or the 3-4 shift once it has warmed up, or sat after a decent drive and heat soaked. There is 1 solenoid I could find that was used for the 3-4 shift and for reverse. IIRC it was SL4 which is part number 35210-50050.

I do not get any codes for solenoids or anything else. I found another thread mentioning that when it acts up around a corner it is likely the internal trans harness as it seeps fluid through the wires into the connect. The wiring is cheap enough that I would want to replace it if replacing the valve body anyway, so just ordered that to try first. Also, the only valve bodies i can find are all from China. I see lots of them have been sold but no one has provided any review of them after installation, so IDK if they are any good or not. Has anyone here replaced their valve body with one from China? And if so, did it work?

EDIT: I never have transmission codes when I check the codes, however yesterday on the way home, on each of the last 3 turns to my house, the trans acted up, so today i checked the codes as I havent driven anywhere for them to clear out on their own. I have 2 codes now, P2714, and P2808, both have a common denominator of SL4. SOOOO, along with the trans wiring harness, I am going to order and replace that solenoid as well. I am tempted to just clean it, but do not want to have to drop the valve body again if that does not resolve it, so will just install a new one aith the harness and a new filter while I am at it. I will likely make a new thread with my issues can codes as well as update this one if it resolves it, to aid in making the info easirt yo find for others with these issues.

 

Ok, both codes 2714 and 2808 came back, so I have ordered the SLT solenoid. Changing the SL4 solenoid helped some, but the issue still persists. I had found a forum post quite awhile ago where the guy had the same exact issues I am having and changed both SLT and SL4 and it resolved the issue. Fingers crossed this is it. I held off getting a "remfg" valve body as I have read lots of reviews and most say they are not rebuilt and arrive dirty with old burnt trans fluid in them etc.. I wish I could find a valve body rebuild kit with the gaskets and instructions on where the check ***** go etc.. Then i would disassemble it and clean it thoroughly myself. I think my 30L ultrasonic cleaner would do a good job if it was disassembled completely first.

 

Check the Diff Luid Level. If it's happening around turns.

 

The diff fluid level has no bearing at all on the trans not engaging a gear. My diff is full though, It hasnt been that long since the fluid was changed and no leaks. However the 3-4 shift and shifting to reverse when it is hot after being parked for a bit isnt the diff either. I changed the SLT solenoid today. Going for a long test drive now, though suspect I will have to drive it for a few weeks to see if the issue is resolved as the codes dont happen very often.

 

I had a Cadillac CTS 2005. My car would run fine in the morning but when I would need to go to lunch at work it would hit limp mode. I thought it was the Trans. I thought it was 3-4 solenoid. I first did filter change then changed solenoids. Didn't fix anything. (Shifted a bit smoother) but would still hit limp mode when it got hot. One day on the rack I noticed a oil run line from the diff. Check the diff it was super low so I drained and replaced. The problem went away. A few months later it was back. I checked the fluid level in diff - it was low. So I filled it up - problem went away again. I never did fix the leak and sold the car. But for months I tried to trace this problem around the transmission when all along it was the Diff Level. Thought Ibwould share as it might help someone.

 

Well, after changing both the SL4 and SLT solenoids, my issue of not wanting to engage reverse once the trans got to temp, and the flare for the 3-4 shift, and the 5-4 downshift clunk, seemed better for a few days, then all of a sudden got worse than it has been and the codes came back. P2714 and P2808. . I finally found a video on servicing the valve body, and it shows where all the check ***** etc go so if the weather permits, I will drop the valve body this weekend, disassemble it and put it in my 30L ultrasonic cleaner to clean it and then reassemble. I suspect one of the valves going in the side of the valve body or one of the accumulators is sticking. Likely will be easy to spot once I pull it all apart. I suspect there will be varnish in the bore of the one that is sticking. I will take pics along the way to do a write up as well if everything works out. Similar to the write up i did of putting a 2jzgte a340e into 2jzge powered vehicles like the 1st gen GS300 I had.

 

I believe I have found at least 1 issue. While disassembling the valve body for cleaning, the check ball housings in the B2 check ball circuit were extremely hard to remove. Once out, the bore is severely scored, and the outside of the steel check ball retainers is scratched up. This is very odd since these do not move. There is no spring in this section. There is just the check ball inside the steel housings. Anyhow, I believe the issue is fluid is getting around the check ball housings and that is the issue. I cleaned the bore up with 320 grit, then 400 grit, then 600 grit sand paper so it is smooth, and polished the outside of the check ball holders/valves. I reassembled it after cleaning everything. The B2 circuit is only used for Reverse from what i can tell. My issue of not going into reverse when hot still occurs, but I do not have to rev it as high to get it to engage.

For the issue of the 3-4 shift, this still occurs as well, but does not use the B2 circuit. It seems the C4 clutch engagement is the issue, but works fine when cold. I cannot find a flow diagram for the valve body to determine which of the valves on the side of the valve body are utilized for this. I cleaned them all out though none of them showed any signs of dirt or varnish etc... I made sure they all moved freely in the bores upon reassembly etc.. It drives a bit better and you do not feel any shifts at all now when it is cold, which is just how it should be, but still has the same issues once it warms up and the same 2 codes. P2808 and P2714. Below is a pic showing which port the B2 check valve is. I think what has happened is the lack of fluid change thanks to Lexus lying to its customers that the fluid is lifetime, has caused the damage, and then the clean fluid has washed away the particles that were filling in the scoring in the port, which is why this took awhile to develop after I flushed the fluid out a few years ago. I work from home so only put about 5k miles on the car a year, otherwise this would have happened much sooner I am sure. I suspect some of the metal from the B2 port has worked its way into a passage for the C4 engagement to cause my other issue, though flushing all of the passages seems to have not dislodged whatever is in there. I have ordered a replacement valve body and will install it when it arrives.

This pic is after i had started cleaning up the scoring. I didn't get a pic to show how bad it was before I started with my makeshift flap wheel.





BTW, when reassembling the valve body, I torqued the 10mm bolts to 96in lbs, the same as when attaching the filter to the valve body or bolting it back into the transmission. The small 8mm bolts, I just tightened by hand.

This pic is where the check ***** go in case anyone else plans to try cleaning their valve body as well.


This pic shows where the little round filters go, and the 1 metal spring loaded valve.

 

Just an update. I bought a new valve body during the 4th of July sale at Lexus. I installed it and it resolved my issues. I also need to change the output seal on the transmission as I was not able to find one when i changed the front seal on it a few years ago, but cannot find one anywhere, and even Amayama doesn't list a part number for it. It seems that Lexus only provides it in the overhaul kit, but I do not need to overhaul the transmission to change an old seal. Napa, Oriellys, Autozone etc.. all do not have a listing for this seal. Does anyone have the part number for the output seal?