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The instrument panel on my 2004 LS430 UL has gone dead. I replaced the fuses and it came back to life. Now it is dead again. I can get it to come back to life by pulling and reinstalling the fuses, but it keeps going off again after a few drives. Any ideas?
Were any of the fuses blown? If it is blowing fuses, it could be an intermittent short somewhere in the panel.
May be worth sending it off to get it repaired. There are common issues caused by the use of early non-lead solder in the LS430 in all of the electronics.
Were any of the fuses blown? If it is blowing fuses, it could be an intermittent short somewhere in the panel.
May be worth sending it off to get it repaired. There are common issues caused by the use of early non-lead solder in the LS430 in all of the electronics.
No fuses blown. It seems resetting them by pulling the fuse will bring everything back to life for a while, but ultimately, the dash goes dead again.
Does everything completely stop working?
I mean that some of gauges are still working or not. For an example, the fuel/temp gauges are OK but others aren't.
Does everything completely stop working?
I mean that some of gauges are still working or not. For an example, the fuel/temp gauges are OK but others aren't.
everything stops working except for the turn signals. Everything works perfect after pulling the fuse and reinserting, but will go out again on the next start.
everything stops working except for the turn signals. Everything works perfect after pulling the fuse and reinserting, but will go out again on the next start.
The power supply circuit is dead. It's not easy for a DIYer to fix but I will try fixing it observing the waveform of the DC-DC converter first.
is this something in the cluster or aher part of the car?
It's in the cluster unit. The confirmation can be done removing connectors to the cluster unit. No more open fuse means that the unit's board below is failed although it's for a JDM UCF30/31 Celsior. The biggest electrolytic capacitor with a red dot should be checked first when starting the troubleshoot.
I had the same problem in that my entire instrument cluster was dead except for turn signal lights. According to a Youtube video if the problem can be temporarily alleviated by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery, then the cause is a capacitor/coil that leaks down because of a bad diode. It is repairable. My problem was that disconnecting and reconnecting the battery did not help because a transformer was bad. Apparently this also is repairable. I am waiting for my cluster to be returned and I will post the results including contact info for the repair shop.
In your first post you say it goes out after a few drives then later you say after next start. Has it progressed to that? Battery disconnect will accomplish the same as pulling fuses. Capacitor in switch mode power supply most likely the problem. If you are comfortable working on electronic circuits a meter is all you need for this. If it were a short a fuse would most likely be blown. Do visual inspection of all caps for bulging or leaking and replace those without even checking anything. It is not always that easy but you could just replace all the caps. A lot of times a 1uf small cap is what I replaced in switch mode supply. Repair centers have kits with the know parts to repair. If not comfortable with this then send off for repair.