Did anyone try before to replace the rear blower for the rear AC in Ultra models?

The blower is feeding both rear ac and fridge with cold air. But I have no idea if it could be reached out from Trunk, or by removing the seats. anyone can shed some light? I have searched everywhere

 

The attached PDF might help...?

 

That would greatly help!
Thanks!

 

Did you ever get it out? Did you have to remove the whole unit just for the blower motor? Mine has been making a low brrrrrr sound every so often I'm thinking its a bearing in the fan motor.

It looks like you should be able to pull the housing without removing the whole unit but its hung up on something.

 

Yes.. I had it out with a help of a friend, not gonna lie, it was a pain!

the only way to reach it is through the trunk, remove the trunk covers carefully as they can easily bend and the whole assembly will be exposed. you need to remove the highlighted plastic cover. it's installed by 4 nuts.. 3 of them are easily reachable, the forth one is hidden from the inside so you need to blindly feel it.

below are two pics I took back then on that day.. sorry if the quality is not the best. hope it helps!

 

Awesome thanks for the quick response and the pictures help a lot! I was already in there to replace my ML Amplifier so I thought I could knock this out at the same time.

I see you also found the nice surprise that the subwoofer speaker rubber rotted away. That's my next task after the A/C blower motor.

 

I may have done it differently but I figured out what the hang up was there are two plastic retainers that need to be released prior to getting the whole thing out.

Thanks again!

 

Great to know that you did it!

 

Hi guys. First time poster on here. Any chance there's access to that ML subwoofer from under that blower motor?

I wanted to take a look at the bottom of it to see if it had come apart before pulling the interior apart to get to it.

 

If I recall it's on the passenger side over the wheel well no need to remove the AC just the cover on that side.

 

Yes, you will be able to see the bottom of the subwoofer once you pull the carpeting out, however, the part of it that disintegrates is the foam ring on the outside of the cone, which will not be visible from below. As sacrilegious as it sounds, it's a much better solution to just trim the parcel shelf around the subwoofer to facilitate it being removed and installed, because you don't want to have to do the whole job twice if the "fixed" subwoofer lasts less than a day before it blows again. Ask me how I know!

 

I should have read closer, I thought you were asking about the Amplifier which I also had to replace. As Yoshi stated it's easiest to get to the Subwoofer from the top it wasn't too difficult there are some walkthru's viedeos out there that walk you thru most of it.

 

Amazing. Thanks for the info guys.

I'm trying to get to the bottom because I had a rattle then it cut out so I'm thinking I have the common ML failure issue I've seen a few times on YouTube. Hoping I can fix it in-situ.


If it's not that, I'll look into removing the rear recliners to get at it the right way...

Now to find the time to tackle it with a 4YO and another one on the way 😂

 

You can check the Sub by just popping the cover off the rear shelf. Use plastic trim tools.
If you need to remove the Sub, then the easiest way is to trim the shelf with a sharp knife until you can access the 4 bolts.
The trimmed part sits underneath the cover so cannot be seen when the cover is fitted, if you do it carefully. I did mine years ago and it looks and works fine.
Otherwise you will be disassembling the rear seats to get the shelf out, just so you can undo 4 bolts.

If your speaker measures 12-16 Ohms on a multimeter then you can just re-foam it.
If not, then it will need to be replaced with a 16 Ohm, 8 Inch Subwoofer.
I used the Dayton Audio SD215A-88 with the two 8 Ohm coils wired in series to give 16 Ohms.