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This sub is the only one you can buy. It is a dual 8 ohm voice coil sub. You will need to wire both coils in series (basically adding the impedance of the two coils together to make 16 ohm).
This is how you will wire the sub: Don't pay attention to the ohms in the diagram, but essentially you will need to run your wires exactly as shown in the picture below.
OP, if you do decide to replace ML sub with Dayton, please do provide pictures of the wirings before installation. I have been thinking of replacing my ML with Dayton and the only thing that stop me is bi-wiring the sub. I didn't want to take a chance and burn out my ML amp. Looking forward for some picture. TIA.
This sub is the only one you can buy. It is a dual 8 ohm voice coil sub. You will need to wire both coils in series (basically adding the impedance of the two coils together to make 16 ohm).
This is how you will wire the sub: Don't pay attention to the ohms in the diagram, but essentially you will need to run your wires exactly as shown in the picture below.
Yessir! The Dayton Audio SD215A-88 8" DVC Subwoofer is sitting on my kitchen counter waiting patiently to be installed. Your wiring diagram is exactly what I needed. I plan to do this using crimp style but connectors, electrical tape, and female slide on connecters. I hope this is sufficient.
I soldered my connectors as per below. Not sure if the crimp style connectors will hold given the vibrations a sub can produce.
Also, if yer using the OEM speaker frame/mount, you will need to grind away a little of the rim of the speaker to get the 4 screws that hold the 2 halves together to fit.
Also had to remove quite a bit of the U shaped plastic bits.
Wish I'd taken more photos now.
Consider getting some Dynamat or equivalent and seal all of the holes in the parcel shelf while you have it all apart. You don't need much, a 12x12 square will do it.
My Kicker Comp C dvc 4 ohm sub has been doing good, I didnt trust the dayton sub to actually last. The ML probably has way better suspension than that dayton.
Ive been thinking about ditching the sub where its mounted and building an actual ported box designed around the subwoofer with the power the factory amp provides. Itll take up trunk space, but this thing has plenty of that. I think the 8" is capable of way more than I am getting out of it right now, just needs the correct box. A horn would probably put this thing into another league, like the BFM auto tuba.
After all these years and all the threads on aftermarket subs for the ML system.....it would be nice if there was a dedicated thread on those members who have changed from OEM to aftermarket with the long term results. How long since the replacement was made? Has there been any affect on the volume output and/or quality of the overall system? How many have reported any amp issue or amp failure after the replacement?
After all these years and all the threads on aftermarket subs for the ML system.....it would be nice if there was a dedicated thread on those members who have changed from OEM to aftermarket with the long term results. How long since the replacement was made? Has there been any affect on the volume output and/or quality of the overall system? How many have reported any amp issue or amp failure after the replacement?
I soldered my connectors as per below. Not sure if the crimp style connectors will hold given the vibrations a sub can produce.
Also, if yer using the OEM speaker frame/mount, you will need to grind away a little of the rim of the speaker to get the 4 screws that hold the 2 halves together to fit.
Also had to remove quite a bit of the U shaped plastic bits.
Wish I'd taken more photos now.
Super helpful! What gauge wire do you recommend to the jumper?
I soldered my connectors as per below. Not sure if the crimp style connectors will hold given the vibrations a sub can produce.
Also, if yer using the OEM speaker frame/mount, you will need to grind away a little of the rim of the speaker to get the 4 screws that hold the 2 halves together to fit.
Also had to remove quite a bit of the U shaped plastic bits.
Wish I'd taken more photos now.
That's odd, I didn't have to modify or drill anything for my Dayton to stay put. removed old sub ; take plastic frame and pull them apart; put Dayton in subwoofer hole; place both plastic frames and set it in top of Dayton sub; screw 4 screws in and done.
Super helpful! What gauge wire do you recommend to the jumper?
I used 55/0.1mm which means 55 strands and each strand is 0.1mm in diameter. I believe its 21 AWG but not 100% certain.
So long as the core is the same or bigger than the wire used to connect the original speaker, you should be fine.
That's odd, I didn't have to modify or drill anything for my Dayton to stay put. removed old sub ; take plastic frame and pull them apart; put Dayton in subwoofer hole; place both plastic frames and set it in top of Dayton sub; screw 4 screws in and done.
My original Sub was sandwiched between the 2 plastic pieces, so I did the same with the Dayton.
I used an SD215A-88 as per below.
You can see from my previous pic how the white part protrudes beyond the plastic brackets.
I got it to fit and it works fine, but needed some modifications to get it to fit.
My Kicker Comp C dvc 4 ohm sub has been doing good, I didnt trust the dayton sub to actually last. The ML probably has way better suspension than that dayton.
Ive been thinking about ditching the sub where its mounted and building an actual ported box designed around the subwoofer with the power the factory amp provides. Itll take up trunk space, but this thing has plenty of that. I think the 8" is capable of way more than I am getting out of it right now, just needs the correct box. A horn would probably put this thing into another league, like the BFM auto tuba.
I've had the Dayton installed for 3 years and drive the audio hard every morning and evening when I drive to and from work. No issues at all.
Also I have actually tried putting a box in the trunk and powering it with the ML amp. It wasn't all the great really. I tried tuning the port, stuffing and unstuffing poly into it, and placed it just behind the drivers seat even. But none of it sounded as good as where it was originally. I might try a different box in the future for further testing.
03-18-19, 05:41 PM
Specific Instructions for Wiring Dayton Sub to 16ohms?
removed old sub ; take plastic frame and pull them apart; put Dayton in subwoofer hole; place both plastic frames and set it in top of Dayton sub; screw 4 screws in and done.
