schwartzyd

Hi all,

So quick update... and it's not good. I installed the new radiator hose and the radiator cap (see below for comparison between the two radiator caps - new on the right - compared to the new one, the old one seemed to be lacking the 'nipple' for lack of a better word).

However, the engine is still overheating. After the repair I was idling the engine, with the heat on (fan speed low) to bleed the coolant system. It took forever to get up to normal operating temperature, and still wasn't blowing warm air. Then I noticed it go a tick above normal operating temperature - so I immediately turned the car off before it overheated.

There were no visible signs of a coolant leak, and the coolant level in the overflow remained constant throughout the coolant bleeding process.

Any thoughts on what could be the issue? Thermostat possibly? Something else?




Thanks a lot!

911LE

There is still air in the system if it's not blowing hot from the heater. The service manual says to turn the heat on high and run the engine at 2500 rpms for 3 minutes. It may take a few tries to remove all of the air. All is not lost yet. Just don't let it overheat while you are bleeding it. Once the heater is working it should be good to go.

schwartzyd

Thank you! Doing it at 2500rpm did the trick. Idle did nothing for me. Hot air was blowing through the heater!

Now I re-filled the coolant as the level had dropped once it circulated through the engine, and now I can't get hot air to blow without overheating. Going to let the car rest for 30 minutes and see if it's cooled down enough to do Part 2 of the bleeding process!

911LE

Make sure your cooling fans are coming on too while your at it. If they aren't coming on this can cause overheating if the car isn't moving.

rkw77080

Also check to make sure coolant is circulating through the radiator. Your thermostat may be stuck partially closed.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

Try raising the front of the vehicle when your doing the bleeding process.

toyo