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I am needing to replace the entire fusible link box assembly due to my Alternator fuse melting. I have spent about a day looking online and there is absolutely nothing I can find on how to replace the entire box. I have seen that the IS, and even some Toyota's have an actual white plastic tray that you would swap out. On my 03 LS it seems this box splits in to two pieces only. By taking the bottom piece out this only allows you to unbolt the fuse links. Am I missing something here?
Thanks for the reply. This is the video on how to replace the alternator link (Fuse). I need instructions on how to change out the whole box assembly. The alternator fuse actually melted inside the holder so the contacts in the box itself are destroyed. I ended up buying a used box assembly, but now I have no clue how I am even going to swap it out.
Does anyone have the applicable pages from the factory service manual that they could post?
Short of the factory manual I would remove the two large circuit breakers (held on my 8/10mm bolts) and the three bolts that hold the box together and then gently lift the assembly out so you can see what is underneath it. I don't know how the smaller fuses and circuit breakers are attached but the spare assembly that you have should give you a pretty good clue as to how the wiring attaches. I think the wiring harness has multiple plugs that go to the backside of the circuits. It wouldn't make sense to have the main power feed being anything but snap-in connectors but since I haven't pulled mine, I can't be sure.
In the video you can clearly see the entire black housing lifting up. You may have to remove ALL the side bolts holding the larger fuses in before the entire assembly is able to come out completely.
Those sidebolts can be seen around 2:20 in the vid...
In the video you can clearly see the entire black housing lifting up. You may have to remove ALL the side bolts holding the larger fuses in before the entire assembly is able to come out completely.
Those sidebolts can be seen around 2:20 in the vid...
You are correct on that. The fuse box on the the LS 430 is different though. Same shape and all, but it appears the fuse box on the LS models are all one piece and do not contain the pop out tray as shown in the video. I have looked around hoping that there is just another clip that I am overlooking to remove the entire assembly, but so far no luck.
Thanks for looking, and yes I have come across that thread in my search. It's the normal procedure for just replacing the actual fuse link. I need to be able to replace the box due to the slot for the alternator fuse is messed up due to the original fuse literally melting inside of it. It looks like the IS models have that seperate white tray that is removable, so you can easily just swap it. The LS looks to be a little different. I am going to post some pics later today because I have everything pretty much ripped apart right now. Hopefully that will help out some.
Here are a few pics of the current fuse box. Keep in mind I have removed the bolts that hold in the fuse links already. Most cars I've seen even the IS have a seperate white fuse holder tray. Well this fuse box on the LS 430 seems to be one solid piece. I need to be able to replace the box itself due to corrosion and melted contacts in the holder where the ALT 140A link goes.
Thanks for the photo. Its too bad it doesn't have the white removable tray. Have you attempted to get the cover completely off? If not, can you trace the wires from the loom into the box itself? About the only large wire that isn't visible is the white with blue stripe which looks to route to the left side of the box. There may be smaller wires going to that panel on the other side but there is no picture. Maybe if you squeeze the two tabs on the right side the entire cover will lift off?
Thanks for the photo. Its too bad it doesn't have the white removable tray. Have you attempted to get the cover completely off? If not, can you trace the wires from the loom into the box itself? About the only large wire that isn't visible is the white with blue stripe which looks to route to the left side of the box. There may be smaller wires going to that panel on the other side but there is no picture. Maybe if you squeeze the two tabs on the right side the entire cover will lift off?
That is what I have been looking for. Just hoping that I can somehow find some clips I have been missing.
The blue/white wire you are referring to does indeed go to the other side of the fuse box. The rest of smaller wires you see are actually soldered in on the bottom of the box itself from what i can tell. I tried to tug on one to see if maybe it was some sort of connectors holding them in, but they were not budging.
From what I can tell though it appears that this box is all one piece. Just cant believe there is nothing online anywhere about this. I ended up buying a replacement box with cut wires from a parted out car, but have no idea what to even do with it now. There is no way I will be able to wire everything to the newer box. Another unfortunate thing is I don't even know if this is going to totally fix my original issue with the fuse melting. I don't even want to know what Lexus would charge to do this.
Ok I think I get it now, the only way to remove the plastic "box" housing is to break all the solder joints then re solder your new box or cut and splice all the wires that are not bolted in...?
I'm curious about the 2 zip ties, maybe there are more not shown in the pic, they don't look factory. I wonder if those are left over from a previous owners work and what ever they did is the root of the problem...?
Ok I think I get it now, the only way to remove the plastic "box" housing is to break all the solder joints then re solder your new box or cut and splice all the wires that are not bolted in...?
I'm curious about the 2 zip ties, maybe there are more not shown in the pic, they don't look factory. I wonder if those are left over from a previous owners work and what ever they did is the root of the problem...?
Thanks for the reply, and I think you are on to something. That is the only way I see at this point to get the entire box out. Since I am going to be swapping the box out this weekend I will go ahead tonight and see if I can just break the wires that are soldered in loose, and go from there. I am still concerned since I haven't really found the root cause of the issue for the fuse melting.
1) I have seen to replace the wire going from the alternator to the fuse box / battery
2) I replaced the fuse back in March and have heard that if it somehow didn't make good contact when i put it in that it finally shorted out and melted out of nowhere.
3) I had put in a new fuse to this current holder and it started smoking again after two minutes. I am just wondering if the melted plastic and metal from the fuse link were causing bad contact.
I hope to get to the bottom of this soon, but it just seems that this issue is rare to the point where there is hardly any info on this for any car from what I have seen. I have seen that some models of VW beetles, and Jetta's have somewhat of a similar problem. I read where some have replaced the entire fuse link assembly multiple times, replaced wires, etc and still have the issue.
So I found this thread while doing some searching. This was a similar issue to what I am experiencing, and appears from pics to be a somewhat similar fusebox. It appears that on this one you can take out each block section one by one. I will look more in to this when I get home, and will update thread later.
So you did replace the wire from the alternator to the fuse box/battery? If so double-check the alternator connection for any signs that it heated up there( potentially a bad rectifier in alternator) and that it’s routed properly so as not to touch ground. While you are at it why not get a remanufactured Denso alternator from Rock Auto ($120)? Or if you see scorch marks on the alternator when inspecting it; definitely replace it. The power shouldn’t flow back to the alternator circuit breaker unless the rectifier isn’t working or there’s a massive connection problem (reversed polarity on alternator wires; dead-short; etc.).