Warped Rotors
09-08-18, 05:05 PM
#1
Rookie
Thread Starter
Warped Rotors
We've had our '03 LS for about two years now. Before that we had a Crown Vic, which was a great car but had it's issues and one of them was a tenancy to warp rotors. It was a pain in my a**, because no matter how many different brands I tried they always eventually warped. I even ordered a set of rotors from a police supplier that were "cryo treated" to prevent warping but they warped anyway. I gave up and just accepted it as how the car would be.
Apparently the LS430 has the same issue, is there any way to solve this problem with these cars? A year ago they were warped pretty good so I replaced them with some "high quality" Brembo pads and rotors. They are now HORRIBLY warped and cause considerable vibration under braking to the point it feels dangerous. I thought about having them turned, but the same thing will happen again most certainly. Will OEM pads and rotors solve the problem? Do i need to have the calipers inspected? Could it be related to a control arm issue that these cars also have?
I would really like to figure this out because i don't want to go through what I did with the Crown Vic, my wife drives this car to work five days a week 60 miles round trip mostly on the interstate so the car needs to feel stable under braking and it does not right now, it feels like garbage.
Also, I know that the term "warped rotors" doesn't mean the rotors are literally warped, and that it's deposits left on the rotors from heating the pads up. My wife gets into lots of stop and go traffic, in Florida (hot), and I'm sure that's not helping either.
Apparently the LS430 has the same issue, is there any way to solve this problem with these cars? A year ago they were warped pretty good so I replaced them with some "high quality" Brembo pads and rotors. They are now HORRIBLY warped and cause considerable vibration under braking to the point it feels dangerous. I thought about having them turned, but the same thing will happen again most certainly. Will OEM pads and rotors solve the problem? Do i need to have the calipers inspected? Could it be related to a control arm issue that these cars also have?
I would really like to figure this out because i don't want to go through what I did with the Crown Vic, my wife drives this car to work five days a week 60 miles round trip mostly on the interstate so the car needs to feel stable under braking and it does not right now, it feels like garbage.
Also, I know that the term "warped rotors" doesn't mean the rotors are literally warped, and that it's deposits left on the rotors from heating the pads up. My wife gets into lots of stop and go traffic, in Florida (hot), and I'm sure that's not helping either.
09-08-18, 07:40 PM
#2
Lead Lap
How do you know they are warped? Did you measure the axial runout with a dual gauge?
By the way I had bad luck with Brembo rear rotors. One of them started to disintegrate after only a couple of years.
By the way I had bad luck with Brembo rear rotors. One of them started to disintegrate after only a couple of years.
09-08-18, 07:42 PM
#3
Driver School Candidate
Recently bought a 2003, been researching anything and everything on these cars in the forum to learn and also see what might be headed my way as I rack up miles.
Others with real world experience will chime in, but for whatever it’s worth, I’ve read that the consensus is OEM or Centric rotors and pads for the best quality. You didn’t say whether your current rotors are drilled/slotted, but if they are, in general, those are not recommended for daily driving. You can Google for the actual physics behind it, but I’ve spent hours reading articles that confirm this.
Lastly, not sure if your pedal is squishy like mine (and a lot of others) is, but I bled the brakes and put on Stoptech brake lines ($100 for all 4). Now my pedal feels like my wife’s 2018 GX, brand new and much better braking, I only have to tap the pedal to start braking versus before I had to press a ways to get it to start stopping. From what I’ve read it was most likely air in the fluid, bleeding was the biggest reason, but I figured throwing new lines at it could only help.
Good luck!
Others with real world experience will chime in, but for whatever it’s worth, I’ve read that the consensus is OEM or Centric rotors and pads for the best quality. You didn’t say whether your current rotors are drilled/slotted, but if they are, in general, those are not recommended for daily driving. You can Google for the actual physics behind it, but I’ve spent hours reading articles that confirm this.
Lastly, not sure if your pedal is squishy like mine (and a lot of others) is, but I bled the brakes and put on Stoptech brake lines ($100 for all 4). Now my pedal feels like my wife’s 2018 GX, brand new and much better braking, I only have to tap the pedal to start braking versus before I had to press a ways to get it to start stopping. From what I’ve read it was most likely air in the fluid, bleeding was the biggest reason, but I figured throwing new lines at it could only help.
Good luck!
09-08-18, 07:44 PM
#4
Lead Lap
Recently bought a 2003, been researching anything and everything on these cars in the forum to learn and also see what might be headed my way as I rack up miles.
Others with real world experience will chime in, but for whatever it’s worth, I’ve read that the consensus is OEM or Centric rotors and pads for the best quality. You didn’t say whether your current rotors are drilled/slotted, but if they are, in general, those are not recommended for daily driving. You can Google for the actual physics behind it, but I’ve spent hours reading articles that confirm this.
Lastly, not sure if your pedal is squishy like mine (and a lot of others) is, but I bled the brakes and put on Stoptech brake lines ($100 for all 4). Now my pedal feels like my wife’s 2018 GX, brand new and much better braking, I only have to tap the pedal to start braking versus before I had to press a ways to get it to start stopping. From what I’ve read it was most likely air in the fluid, bleeding was the biggest reason, but I figured throwing new lines at it could only help.
Good luck!
Others with real world experience will chime in, but for whatever it’s worth, I’ve read that the consensus is OEM or Centric rotors and pads for the best quality. You didn’t say whether your current rotors are drilled/slotted, but if they are, in general, those are not recommended for daily driving. You can Google for the actual physics behind it, but I’ve spent hours reading articles that confirm this.
Lastly, not sure if your pedal is squishy like mine (and a lot of others) is, but I bled the brakes and put on Stoptech brake lines ($100 for all 4). Now my pedal feels like my wife’s 2018 GX, brand new and much better braking, I only have to tap the pedal to start braking versus before I had to press a ways to get it to start stopping. From what I’ve read it was most likely air in the fluid, bleeding was the biggest reason, but I figured throwing new lines at it could only help.
Good luck!
09-08-18, 08:32 PM
#5
Can be a variety of situations as well as braking technique. Dad would get hard on the brakes and within a week his rotors had warped across a variety of cars he owned. He had them done and in 2 weeks, again. Same with mo-in-law and she was one of those in a hurry types. After a bit she said forget it, the brakes on her Honda Accord plain sucked because they would always warp. Dad learned to go a bit easier and after that he tended to do better. Didn't solve it but he wasn't visiting the shop nearly as much. LOL.
The limo or chauffer stop is what I was taught long ago. I use the technique because this tends to be a smoother ride and is easy on the braking components. Our 400 typically goes to 80K on Toyota ceramic front pads. The original factory rotors are still good at 210K miles and with sufficient thickness to reach about 280-300K miles. (One more front pad interval roughly.) Our friends with 430's have been doing well with their rotors, they vary at 50-65K for their brake jobs. We compare notes between our 400 and their 430's, they've had 400's as well and some have gone onto 460's.
If they cannot be machined out, I've been pleased with the Centric Premiums.
The limo or chauffer stop is what I was taught long ago. I use the technique because this tends to be a smoother ride and is easy on the braking components. Our 400 typically goes to 80K on Toyota ceramic front pads. The original factory rotors are still good at 210K miles and with sufficient thickness to reach about 280-300K miles. (One more front pad interval roughly.) Our friends with 430's have been doing well with their rotors, they vary at 50-65K for their brake jobs. We compare notes between our 400 and their 430's, they've had 400's as well and some have gone onto 460's.
If they cannot be machined out, I've been pleased with the Centric Premiums.
09-08-18, 08:56 PM
#6
Pole Position
Check your hubs as well. Clean them up and put a DTI gauge on your hub faces. Warped hubs can also cause warped rotors. I've got a nasty set of rotors on mine and while I hadn't checked the hubs when I removed them, the rotors are definitely shot. Front hubs are super easy to change over if they are warped or otherwise worn out
09-08-18, 10:38 PM
#7
Rookie
Thread Starter
The rotors are neither slotted or drilled. I'm pretty disappointed with Brembo tbh, I was under the impression they made quality stuff. I've used centric many times and have never had an issue, but in a car that likes to warp rotors I'll just go OEM to be safe and see what happens I guess. Will look into those brake lines too.
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09-09-18, 07:22 AM
#8
Lexus Champion
I don't understand the the LS430 has warped rotors. My 04 now has 135,000 miles and has never had any indication of brake problems. The pads have worn out and been replaced twice during the life of the car. They were replaced prior to the brake sensor being worn through. The brake jobs were done at my Lexus dealer and the rotors were turned each time. The fact that they were able to turn them 2 times and still be within minimum required thickness shows there was no warpage. I only use Lexus OEM parts on any repair or maintenance.
Consequently, I don't understand how other cars have warped brake problems. Do they let the pads completely wear out and have metal-to-metal on the rotor? That will certainly allow warping to occur.
Consequently, I don't understand how other cars have warped brake problems. Do they let the pads completely wear out and have metal-to-metal on the rotor? That will certainly allow warping to occur.
09-09-18, 07:24 PM
#9
Moderator
I have 110k miles and still using original OEM rotors, replaced front pads and rear pads once (with OEM parts), and the brakes run smooth as glass with plenty of pad surface left. But I drive the car very gently and like an old geezer.
Based on posts made to this forum over last 10 years or so I don't think rotor warping is a common problem on LS430s.
Issues with rotors tend to result from brakes components overheating - some causes include "riding" the brakes, aggressive driving in stop and go conditions, following too close and heavy braking without adequate time for brake surfaces to cool, track day driving style.
Based on posts made to this forum over last 10 years or so I don't think rotor warping is a common problem on LS430s.
Issues with rotors tend to result from brakes components overheating - some causes include "riding" the brakes, aggressive driving in stop and go conditions, following too close and heavy braking without adequate time for brake surfaces to cool, track day driving style.
09-10-18, 04:51 AM
#10
Lexus Fanatic
I'm not sure if it's a tomato/tuh matow thing, but I'm of the camp that says rotors do not warp. They become unsmooth or have runout, because something embeds in the pads, or on floating calipers pins bind up, or rotors become scored, etc. So if this happens repeatedly, there could be something in the environment that causes it. On some vehicles, it's a factor as stupid as parking on a stone driveway. my .02
09-10-18, 06:50 PM
#13
Our 03 has 111K on the OEM rotors. Just changed the fronts pads for the 2nd time (well before the indicators hit) and still running the original rear pads. Never turned the rotors either. Brakes smooth as silk.
09-11-18, 06:01 AM
#15
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After my years with Volvo 240's i learned one thing for sure. Torque lug nuts with a torque wrench as soon as you get home from a tire shop. My rotor problems went away and never came back. Do the same with my LS430 and never had any problems.