Headlight haze - is anyone replacing or are we all buffing
#16
Lexus Champion
A proper restoration is a multi-step process...and most so-called restoration kits are sorely lacking.
A link to a proper headlight restoration on 1999 LS400:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/828856-headlamp-restoration.html
#17
Driver School Candidate
#18
Right 04+
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f265745701
Left 04+
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r241450740
#19
I’ve applied this on three vehicles so far in the past 6 months. I had to “refinish” my 2012 CT200h headlights before applying this product. My 2005 LS430 garage queen’s headlights are flawless. I did those as well, along with my wife’s 2017 Outback. I can’t comment on long term
performance, it just hasn’t been that long. The product has a distinct solvent smell, applies easily and doesn’t adversely affect optics. I will apply a few more coats before calling the job done. They don’t give you a great deal of product, but you don’t use much. Sealing the syringe is easy and secure in that it doesn’t solidify once sealed. I’ve had mine for about 3 months so far, stored in a garage in Texas.
https://www.autogeek.net/optimum-opt...t-coating.html
performance, it just hasn’t been that long. The product has a distinct solvent smell, applies easily and doesn’t adversely affect optics. I will apply a few more coats before calling the job done. They don’t give you a great deal of product, but you don’t use much. Sealing the syringe is easy and secure in that it doesn’t solidify once sealed. I’ve had mine for about 3 months so far, stored in a garage in Texas.
https://www.autogeek.net/optimum-opt...t-coating.html
Last edited by Davidsofia; 05-21-18 at 05:43 PM.
#21
I used to use Meguiar's headlight restoration with acceptable results, but it didn't last.
This year I switched to Bluemagic and applied a thin coat of Turtlewax super hard shell. Several months later and the headlights are still clear.
This year I switched to Bluemagic and applied a thin coat of Turtlewax super hard shell. Several months later and the headlights are still clear.
#22
I did mine, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, then buffed with Chemical Guys V36. They came out pretty well IMO.
#23
Instructor
I did the sanding, buffing, and then clear UV paint on both my LS and GS. They came out fairly decent but on my LS it started to slightly change color over time and the GS I got a little crazy with the rattle can and had some orange peel that most people probably wouldn't notice but it bugged the crap out of me every time I looked at the car. I ended up going to a local company that does sanding but then uses a chemical/sealant that makes them pretty much perfect. It cost me $100 but almost a year later and the still look really good.
#24
I did the sanding, buffing, and then clear UV paint on both my LS and GS. They came out fairly decent but on my LS it started to slightly change color over time and the GS I got a little crazy with the rattle can and had some orange peel that most people probably wouldn't notice but it bugged the crap out of me every time I looked at the car. I ended up going to a local company that does sanding but then uses a chemical/sealant that makes them pretty much perfect. It cost me $100 but almost a year later and the still look really good.
Last edited by Bocatrip; 05-22-18 at 01:59 PM.
#25
Moderator
So true. My sister bought a 2002 Taurus years ago and the headlights were so hazy they looked like they were painted white. 4-5 years ago she came over for a family get together and I got out my polish and cleaned them up for her. Amazing difference it made. It was funny how happy she was! She started looking at that car in a whole new light, until it succumbed to a rusty sub frame.. But, the headlights looked great.
#26
Just redid my headlights actually along with the cruise control module, start with 1500 wetsand, step up to 3000 wetsand (be light, these are plastic headlights you can burn through as they are sensitive to heat) then I did a 3 step buff starting with rubbing compound on an orbital foam pad - make sure you're not heating them up HOT in the area in which you are focusing the buffing on this will cause damage. warm is ok the second step is a machine polish and 3rd step is a ultrafine machine polish I also used three different pads, one heavy cut one light cut one medium - one for each perspective compound= - I was using 3m mirror finish I think If you want specifics. Bottles of compound are not cheap nor is an orbital just sharing how I did it. my headlights do not leak and arent spider cracked. none of this will help that. Sorry that the headlights are on in the picture but this is the after! this is taken with a s6 in a dungeon of a detail shop so bear with the picture. no errors whatsoever with the cruise module. just take everything slowly and tape it all off. I was very happy with the outcome. the orange square in the cruise module I think is the detail shop microwave. P.S. drive up to Madison - Wisco and I'll wetsand and buff you're headlights for 20 bux . Always good to see another member
Last edited by InToyoda; 05-22-18 at 07:03 PM.
#27
You may also clearcoat the headlights too for extra extra long lasting results with a proper bodyshop spraygun for the whole 9 yards. Edit: You can try spraycan clearcoat but you won't see me trying it on any of my vehicles headlights.
Last edited by InToyoda; 05-22-18 at 07:00 PM.
#28
Post pics! this thread is worthless without pics!!!! (of the headlights that is, wish I has a before pic of mine - especially my cruise module.)
#29
You need to refinish them and then apply a clear Xpel overlay which has a UV filter and 10 year warranty I believe. I did mine about 5 years ago. Prior to that I would have to redo about every 12 months since I park outside. I also did the PCS clear cover. Flawless.
#30
Instructor
I would like to mention that my 2002 UL has no headlight haze, likely because it spends very little time out in the sun. No products have ever been applied to the plastic. Therefore, I would infer that UV and heat are the primary causes of the headlight hazing. If you can block or reduce one or both, you should be able to significantly slow the hazing process.