How to fix a stuck front passenger door lock remote.
10-04-17, 02:10 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
How to fix a stuck front passenger door lock remote.
2006 lS-430
Except "occaisionally", the front passenger door opens and locks, only by manually using the interior door lock button.
The smart access system will "jiggle" the interior door lock button, but will not open or lock this door by using the (a) smart access key, (b) pushing the exterior door lock button to lock the door or pulling on the outside handle to unlock it, or (c) using the power door lock switches.
If the solution is a WD-40 or Lithium grease fix, does this require disassembling the door panels to get at the locking mechanism?
PS: I had the Lock Assembley, front door (part #69040-50181) replaced at 63,000 miles by the dealership and now have 82,000 miles on this car.
Except "occaisionally", the front passenger door opens and locks, only by manually using the interior door lock button.
The smart access system will "jiggle" the interior door lock button, but will not open or lock this door by using the (a) smart access key, (b) pushing the exterior door lock button to lock the door or pulling on the outside handle to unlock it, or (c) using the power door lock switches.
If the solution is a WD-40 or Lithium grease fix, does this require disassembling the door panels to get at the locking mechanism?
PS: I had the Lock Assembley, front door (part #69040-50181) replaced at 63,000 miles by the dealership and now have 82,000 miles on this car.
Last edited by busbyrg; 10-05-17 at 05:05 PM. Reason: To be more specific with the problem.
10-05-17, 05:36 PM
#2
Lexus Champion
Sounds like your door lock actuator motor is failing. Please take a look at the post below for a tutorial on the repair...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...-tutorial.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...-tutorial.html
10-06-17, 10:16 AM
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I clicked on your link and was directed to:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...-tutorial.html
I was then directed to:
http://www.shastaanesthesia.com/Lexu.../actuator.html
From the dropdown list, I choose "Door Lock Actuator Repair" once and "Lexus LS 430" the next time. I must be dumber than a post, as I can not find a tutorial either of these drop down menu buttons. Can you enlighten me some more?
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...-tutorial.html
I was then directed to:
http://www.shastaanesthesia.com/Lexu.../actuator.html
From the dropdown list, I choose "Door Lock Actuator Repair" once and "Lexus LS 430" the next time. I must be dumber than a post, as I can not find a tutorial either of these drop down menu buttons. Can you enlighten me some more?
10-06-17, 03:10 PM
#4
Lexus Champion
I clicked on your link and was directed to:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...-tutorial.html
I was then directed to:
http://www.shastaanesthesia.com/Lexu.../actuator.html
From the dropdown list, I choose "Door Lock Actuator Repair" once and "Lexus LS 430" the next time. I must be dumber than a post, as I can not find a tutorial either of these drop down menu buttons. Can you enlighten me some more?
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...-tutorial.html
I was then directed to:
http://www.shastaanesthesia.com/Lexu.../actuator.html
From the dropdown list, I choose "Door Lock Actuator Repair" once and "Lexus LS 430" the next time. I must be dumber than a post, as I can not find a tutorial either of these drop down menu buttons. Can you enlighten me some more?
. However, you can still find plenty of tips and tricks contributed by actual DIY'ers. Please take a look at Post #240 (Page 16) for a summary of steps.
The following users liked this post:
busbyrg (10-07-17)
10-07-17, 07:27 AM
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Post #240 (Page 16)
I am a novice on this Lexus Forum website and although I have tried to search for this Post #240, I have failed.
Can you instruct me how to navigate to this posting? (I am starting to feel as smart as a bag of hammers.)
I am a novice on this Lexus Forum website and although I have tried to search for this Post #240, I have failed.
Can you instruct me how to navigate to this posting? (I am starting to feel as smart as a bag of hammers.)
10-07-17, 07:37 AM
#6
This is what post #240 from a thread mentioned above says:
I scraped the text from the wayback machine; but the images are toast:
Door Lock Actuator Tutorial LS 430.
The door lock actuators eventually wear out. There are a number of
references to this problem if one Googles the problem, however I was unable to
find a do it yourself tutorial. Since my timing belt tutorial has had >2500 hits I
figured there was a large population of do-it-yourself LS 430 owners so I took
some pictures, copied some manual pages and did a little reverse engineering.
The doors are locked and unlocked by a small motor.(MABUCHI) In addition
the actuator has circuitry to signal the computer the status of the lock and the
position of the key in the door. The door key had 3 positions. It can be neutral
or signal "lock" or "unlock". Most of the time the problem with the actuator is
the motor burning out. The motors cost a couple of bucks and simply slips out
and slips in. First you remove the door panel. The manual describes it well.
There are 4 plastic clips
holding the panel to the
door. These clips pop out
with gentle prying and
pulling.
The panel has to
be raised up about 1/2 inch
to release from the door.
These are the 2 cables connecting the
drivers door lock/opener to the
actuator. They are easily removed.
The white cable goes to the lock
mechanism and the green cable to the
door opener
If you don't disconnect the wiring at the front
of the door panel you will need to support
it. Here the door panel is supported by a
motorcycle workstand. This is sufficient
access to remove the actuator. Carefully
remove the vapor barrier. I used a razor
knife to cut the adhesive. It will reseal itself
when you reinstall it.
There are 2 bolts which hold the window rail
and 5 screws (Torx 30) which hold the actuator
in place. The window rail needs to be loose
to slide the actuator out. There is a rod that
connects the actuator to the door handle. It
has a clip which folds over the rod. This will
have to be removed. I could not get a good
photo since it is deep in the door. The key
connects to a spade fitting that fits into a cup in
the actuator.
Disconnect the wire
harness. The window rail
can be moved a little out of
the way and the actuator
come out easily.
The white cup with the slot is where the
key connects to the actuator. The key is
connected to a spade which fits into this
slot. The white cup then connects to the
actuator circuitry. The schematic is
below. This needs to be carefully
reassembled. Upon reassembly with
everything just finger tight make sure the
key in the door can move freely to lock
and unlock position. If the cup is
mis-assembled with the spade the key
will not move freely and the computer will
get a signal indication that the key is
stuck in the "lock" position or "unlock"
position. I know this because I put it all
back together in the stuck "unlock"
position. When you do this you will not
only be unable to unlock the car with a
key but the computer will command all
kinds of bizarre behavior. In the stuck
"unlock" position the remotes don't work
and the computer commands the sunroof
and windows to open. Much cussing
later I figured out problem.
You can check the lock motor at contacts 5 &
6.
Contacts 2- 1 signal the computer if the door
is locked or unlocked. (open circuit when
locked)
The key in the lock position closes circuit
2-4. The key in the unlock position closes
circuit 2-3. In the neutral positon 2-4 and 2-3
are open. This circuitry tells the computer
when you turn the key in the door. This is
how the computer knows to lock other doors.
Also when key in "unlock" position for 3-5
seconds the windows and sunroof will open.
The Actuator assembly prys apart
easily and this is what you find. The
motor pops out. The gear on the
motor slides off. The contacts for
the motor are obvious (although not
in this picture).
When you get a replacement
motor make sure the shaft is "D"
shaped not round "O" shaped. The
gear will not fit on a round shaft.
Pop in a new motor and put it back
together and you are done. $5
dollars to do it yourself versus $700
at the dealer.
When I open up the assembly I
found that I not only had the wrong
motor (the shaft was round and not
"D" shaped) but also that my
copper contacts were broken.
Since the contacts were broken I
elected to replace the entire
assembly.
The part number is 69040-50181.
$200. I ordered from
OEMLexusParts.com.
(Stevinson Lexus of Frederick)
Price was excellent, service was
excellent. Delivered to my door in 3
days. I talked to a real Lexus parts
guy before ordering to make sure I
got the correct part.
Reassembly is the reverse of assembly. Make sure that the spade fitting from the
key mechanism in the door handle fits into the white cup in the door lock actuator
assembly. If you don't the key won't turn freely, won't work, and the computer will
get a signal that key is stuck open or stuck closed. The remote wont work, the key
won't work and the computer will command bizarre behaviour
I scraped the text from the wayback machine; but the images are toast:
Door Lock Actuator Tutorial LS 430.
The door lock actuators eventually wear out. There are a number of
references to this problem if one Googles the problem, however I was unable to
find a do it yourself tutorial. Since my timing belt tutorial has had >2500 hits I
figured there was a large population of do-it-yourself LS 430 owners so I took
some pictures, copied some manual pages and did a little reverse engineering.
The doors are locked and unlocked by a small motor.(MABUCHI) In addition
the actuator has circuitry to signal the computer the status of the lock and the
position of the key in the door. The door key had 3 positions. It can be neutral
or signal "lock" or "unlock". Most of the time the problem with the actuator is
the motor burning out. The motors cost a couple of bucks and simply slips out
and slips in. First you remove the door panel. The manual describes it well.
There are 4 plastic clips
holding the panel to the
door. These clips pop out
with gentle prying and
pulling.
The panel has to
be raised up about 1/2 inch
to release from the door.
These are the 2 cables connecting the
drivers door lock/opener to the
actuator. They are easily removed.
The white cable goes to the lock
mechanism and the green cable to the
door opener
If you don't disconnect the wiring at the front
of the door panel you will need to support
it. Here the door panel is supported by a
motorcycle workstand. This is sufficient
access to remove the actuator. Carefully
remove the vapor barrier. I used a razor
knife to cut the adhesive. It will reseal itself
when you reinstall it.
There are 2 bolts which hold the window rail
and 5 screws (Torx 30) which hold the actuator
in place. The window rail needs to be loose
to slide the actuator out. There is a rod that
connects the actuator to the door handle. It
has a clip which folds over the rod. This will
have to be removed. I could not get a good
photo since it is deep in the door. The key
connects to a spade fitting that fits into a cup in
the actuator.
Disconnect the wire
harness. The window rail
can be moved a little out of
the way and the actuator
come out easily.
The white cup with the slot is where the
key connects to the actuator. The key is
connected to a spade which fits into this
slot. The white cup then connects to the
actuator circuitry. The schematic is
below. This needs to be carefully
reassembled. Upon reassembly with
everything just finger tight make sure the
key in the door can move freely to lock
and unlock position. If the cup is
mis-assembled with the spade the key
will not move freely and the computer will
get a signal indication that the key is
stuck in the "lock" position or "unlock"
position. I know this because I put it all
back together in the stuck "unlock"
position. When you do this you will not
only be unable to unlock the car with a
key but the computer will command all
kinds of bizarre behavior. In the stuck
"unlock" position the remotes don't work
and the computer commands the sunroof
and windows to open. Much cussing
later I figured out problem.
You can check the lock motor at contacts 5 &
6.
Contacts 2- 1 signal the computer if the door
is locked or unlocked. (open circuit when
locked)
The key in the lock position closes circuit
2-4. The key in the unlock position closes
circuit 2-3. In the neutral positon 2-4 and 2-3
are open. This circuitry tells the computer
when you turn the key in the door. This is
how the computer knows to lock other doors.
Also when key in "unlock" position for 3-5
seconds the windows and sunroof will open.
The Actuator assembly prys apart
easily and this is what you find. The
motor pops out. The gear on the
motor slides off. The contacts for
the motor are obvious (although not
in this picture).
When you get a replacement
motor make sure the shaft is "D"
shaped not round "O" shaped. The
gear will not fit on a round shaft.
Pop in a new motor and put it back
together and you are done. $5
dollars to do it yourself versus $700
at the dealer.
When I open up the assembly I
found that I not only had the wrong
motor (the shaft was round and not
"D" shaped) but also that my
copper contacts were broken.
Since the contacts were broken I
elected to replace the entire
assembly.
The part number is 69040-50181.
$200. I ordered from
OEMLexusParts.com.
(Stevinson Lexus of Frederick)
Price was excellent, service was
excellent. Delivered to my door in 3
days. I talked to a real Lexus parts
guy before ordering to make sure I
got the correct part.
Reassembly is the reverse of assembly. Make sure that the spade fitting from the
key mechanism in the door handle fits into the white cup in the door lock actuator
assembly. If you don't the key won't turn freely, won't work, and the computer will
get a signal that key is stuck open or stuck closed. The remote wont work, the key
won't work and the computer will command bizarre behaviour
The following users liked this post:
busbyrg (10-09-17)
10-07-17, 12:32 PM
#7
Whenever I want to provide a link directly to a particular post in a thread, I'll click on that number to bring up another window that shows the post at the top of the window. Then I copy the address for that window and use that for the link. Makes it easier to send people to the material without having to search for it...
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busbyrg (10-09-17)
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