joined the timing belt club at ~ 87k
03-30-17, 11:48 AM
#91
Insisting that it doesn't matter which way the timing belt goes on when you haven't performed the job and your opinion is admittedly based upon only what you read in one post is pure idle speculation. Speculating on less important matters is fine, but this topic is the heart of the interference engine and everyone knows replacing the timing belt must be done correctly, or else. The timing belt has arrow marks for left and right cams and crank because it installs correctly, only one way. As stated above, the distance between each mark on the belt is critical. The cams and crank can always be rotated to line up the match marks on a backward installed belt. Doing that, of course, does not mean "everything lined up."
There is plenty of evidence posted by 02Legend that his belt was installed backwards. If it didn't matter which way the match marks on the belt were installed, why would 02's 2nd tech even say the belt was originally installed "backwards"? And why did he flip the belt and re-install it? If it didn't matter which way the belt was installed, why did the belt have arrows with L and R markings from the factory? Why does the manual say to hand turn the engine 2 full rotations on the crank to make sure no valve interference before starting up the engine?
The novice indie tech installed the belt backwards, turning the cams and crank to make the match marks "all line up." He then started the engine and heard a valve(s) hit a piston(s), even if only lightly. That belt a valve(s). The noise 02Legend hears is the damaged valve(s). They now tell 02Legend that they want to "adjust the valves" for $2,400. (Replacing a timing belt and tensioner correctly does not require any valve adjustment. I'm not aware that there is any valve lash which is adjustable on the 3UZ-FE. The hydraulic lifters compensate for that.) But the tech knows they need to tear down the upper engine and replace the bent valve(s), but they're not telling 02Legend that. Perhaps I just wrote what others are thinking as well, but none of us want to tell 02Legend this strong possibility.
I would take the LS to another shop and have them diagnose and fix the cause. Then take up the cost to repair with the original shop. Did you use a credit card for the original timing belt job? Then refuse payment through your credit card company. Also, many credit card companies offer various types of insurance coverage on purchases. Look into that. Finally, since the damage is fixable and relatively small dollars, you can always file a small claim court complaint. Be sure to get a written statement from the shop that fixes the damage, AND be sure they give you the damaged valve(s) for your Exhibit A.
There is plenty of evidence posted by 02Legend that his belt was installed backwards. If it didn't matter which way the match marks on the belt were installed, why would 02's 2nd tech even say the belt was originally installed "backwards"? And why did he flip the belt and re-install it? If it didn't matter which way the belt was installed, why did the belt have arrows with L and R markings from the factory? Why does the manual say to hand turn the engine 2 full rotations on the crank to make sure no valve interference before starting up the engine?
The novice indie tech installed the belt backwards, turning the cams and crank to make the match marks "all line up." He then started the engine and heard a valve(s) hit a piston(s), even if only lightly. That belt a valve(s). The noise 02Legend hears is the damaged valve(s). They now tell 02Legend that they want to "adjust the valves" for $2,400. (Replacing a timing belt and tensioner correctly does not require any valve adjustment. I'm not aware that there is any valve lash which is adjustable on the 3UZ-FE. The hydraulic lifters compensate for that.) But the tech knows they need to tear down the upper engine and replace the bent valve(s), but they're not telling 02Legend that. Perhaps I just wrote what others are thinking as well, but none of us want to tell 02Legend this strong possibility.
I would take the LS to another shop and have them diagnose and fix the cause. Then take up the cost to repair with the original shop. Did you use a credit card for the original timing belt job? Then refuse payment through your credit card company. Also, many credit card companies offer various types of insurance coverage on purchases. Look into that. Finally, since the damage is fixable and relatively small dollars, you can always file a small claim court complaint. Be sure to get a written statement from the shop that fixes the damage, AND be sure they give you the damaged valve(s) for your Exhibit A.
We're armchair quarterbacking here. Don't know 02's relationship with the shop, how much time he wants to spend on this, the shop's interest in solving the problem, etc. Good luck 02. No one wants to be in this situation. Hope things work out.
03-30-17, 03:55 PM
#92
Lexus Champion
Why does the manual say to hand turn the engine 2 full rotations on the crank to make sure no valve interference before starting up the engine?
The novice indie tech installed the belt backwards, turning the cams and crank to make the match marks "all line up." He then started the engine and heard a valve(s) hit a piston(s), even if only lightly. That belt a valve(s). The noise 02Legend hears is the damaged valve(s). They now tell 02Legend that they want to "adjust the valves" for $2,400. (Replacing a timing belt and tensioner correctly does not require any valve adjustment. I'm not aware that there is any valve lash which is adjustable on the 3UZ-FE. The hydraulic lifters compensate for that.) But the tech knows they need to tear down the upper engine and replace the bent valve(s), but they're not telling 02Legend that. Perhaps I just wrote what others are thinking as well, but none of us want to tell 02Legend this strong possibility.
.
The novice indie tech installed the belt backwards, turning the cams and crank to make the match marks "all line up." He then started the engine and heard a valve(s) hit a piston(s), even if only lightly. That belt a valve(s). The noise 02Legend hears is the damaged valve(s). They now tell 02Legend that they want to "adjust the valves" for $2,400. (Replacing a timing belt and tensioner correctly does not require any valve adjustment. I'm not aware that there is any valve lash which is adjustable on the 3UZ-FE. The hydraulic lifters compensate for that.) But the tech knows they need to tear down the upper engine and replace the bent valve(s), but they're not telling 02Legend that. Perhaps I just wrote what others are thinking as well, but none of us want to tell 02Legend this strong possibility.
.
There's also another set of timing marks(the Ts next to the cam pulleys and the dot on the lower timing cover past the timing scale on the lower timing belt cover) that's the "service position" which puts the pistons in a safe position while the timing belt is pulled - the cam and crank will need to be turned manually to align with the TDC marks(the I mark for the cams and the dimples on the crank sprocket and oil pump) - this link in the SC430 forum explains this: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc4...ion-notes.html. Toyota does this with all the VVT-i engines to set the crank at 50 degrees ATDC/BTDC, and I've had the rear cam "unwind" on a 3MZ-FE in a Sienna once the belt was removed. It's a CYA to keep the valves and pistons from kissing each other and not in a good way.
This might confuse an indie tech that doesn't do these everyday - I was about to tackle this for my parents, I felt confident but I decided to tell them to take it to the dealer. Most non-dealer or import specialist shops will get whatever timing belt kit O'Reilly, Advanced or Autozone has in stock - and while the belt will work in many cases, it might not be marked or fit like the OEM Mitsuboshi belt - the Aisin kits have the same belt sans the Toyota markings.
03-30-17, 07:07 PM
#93
Driver School Candidate
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Tallcaguy seems convinced that the timing belt being on backwards is at fault. I'd like to share some thoughts and my own very recent and funny experience with this.
Thoughts: many timing belts do not have factory marks at all. The belt I just replaced on my LS did not have any marks, so was it forwards or backwards? How could it have been installed with no marks? There is no backward or forward on belts like these because the technician is supposed to make the marks himself. This is the age old process of marking it out yourself. Watch the popular youtube video posted in the FAQ and you will see how it works. I'm not saying that 02legend's shop used that method for sure but I believe it's a pretty standard procedure.
My kinda funny story: I've replaced enough timing belts on enough cars that when I bought my LS 2 months ago, I planned to do it myself, not even knowing all of the details yet. I ended up replacing it "backwards" but I also used the make-your-own-marks method. The cam lines lined still lined up and everything lined up with my own marks.
I buttoned it all back up, went to start it and it cranked just fine but would not fire. I freaked out. I immediately started searching the web for answers. One of the places I found was this thread. "OH MY GOD, did I install that belt backwards?" "Why should that even matter?" "Did I somehow just destroy all my valves?" Imagine how freaked-out I was. I just bought the car and I immediately wrecked it?
I tore it all apart and reversed the belt. I also checked it again against my own marks from the first belt. It still lined up the same as it did before. I scratched my head and set the old belt down on the counter. And then I saw it...
My smartkey had not left it's place on the counter in days. That's right... the engine wouldn't fire because I did not have my key in the car when I tried to start it. The orientation of the belt meant nothing, I'm just a smartkey noob.
It cost me $63 of coolant and many hours of time to learn that ridiculous lesson but once it was back together and I had my key in my hand, it fired right up and runs great now.
So, this does not prove the shop did not cause any damage but it does prove that timing belts do not require a front/back orientation to work.
Thoughts: many timing belts do not have factory marks at all. The belt I just replaced on my LS did not have any marks, so was it forwards or backwards? How could it have been installed with no marks? There is no backward or forward on belts like these because the technician is supposed to make the marks himself. This is the age old process of marking it out yourself. Watch the popular youtube video posted in the FAQ and you will see how it works. I'm not saying that 02legend's shop used that method for sure but I believe it's a pretty standard procedure.
My kinda funny story: I've replaced enough timing belts on enough cars that when I bought my LS 2 months ago, I planned to do it myself, not even knowing all of the details yet. I ended up replacing it "backwards" but I also used the make-your-own-marks method. The cam lines lined still lined up and everything lined up with my own marks.
I buttoned it all back up, went to start it and it cranked just fine but would not fire. I freaked out. I immediately started searching the web for answers. One of the places I found was this thread. "OH MY GOD, did I install that belt backwards?" "Why should that even matter?" "Did I somehow just destroy all my valves?" Imagine how freaked-out I was. I just bought the car and I immediately wrecked it?
I tore it all apart and reversed the belt. I also checked it again against my own marks from the first belt. It still lined up the same as it did before. I scratched my head and set the old belt down on the counter. And then I saw it...
My smartkey had not left it's place on the counter in days. That's right... the engine wouldn't fire because I did not have my key in the car when I tried to start it. The orientation of the belt meant nothing, I'm just a smartkey noob.
It cost me $63 of coolant and many hours of time to learn that ridiculous lesson but once it was back together and I had my key in my hand, it fired right up and runs great now.
So, this does not prove the shop did not cause any damage but it does prove that timing belts do not require a front/back orientation to work.
03-30-17, 08:33 PM
#94
I appreciate every one's words and thoughts about the ordeal I am dealing with right now. To the extent of knowing the shop, I personally know the person who runs the shop (20+ years), he is not a technician at all. He handles all of the schedules, parts orders, etc. I have talked with and somewhat know the primary tech/mechanic, met him a few years ago. At the time of getting the work done on my car I did not know another tech was hired as the shop was becoming very busy. I don't know his background or capabilities. I assumed the primary tech was going to be doing the work. The shop does all basic repairs and duties, but does specialize in German cars. I did ask if they were capable of doing the work and I was assured it would be no problem. However, now my buddy said the shop will never touch a Lexus timing belt again.
I am very mechanically inclined and would have attempted this myself if I had a garage to work on the car in, as well as a backup car (looking for a beater now). I tend to do all of my own work unless it is something I don't have to the tools for or if I know it's going to take me a far longer time to complete than a shop as I have a very busy work schedule. I have only been home 3 days since mid February. I should have just waited when I was home long enough and just taken it to the dealer. It is at the dealer know having the passenger side valve cover taken off to inspect, I asked them to check the driver side as well (even though the noise is only on the passenger side).
I will wait until I hear from the dealer and work out the money aspect when I get back and get a detailed write up from the dealer and then go to my buddies shop and work something out with him. He already said to let him know what happens and he will work with me. I'm hoping he doesn't back down on his word. Unfortunately right now I am not scheduled to fly back until April 21st. I may modify my travel and fly back over a weekend.
I am very mechanically inclined and would have attempted this myself if I had a garage to work on the car in, as well as a backup car (looking for a beater now). I tend to do all of my own work unless it is something I don't have to the tools for or if I know it's going to take me a far longer time to complete than a shop as I have a very busy work schedule. I have only been home 3 days since mid February. I should have just waited when I was home long enough and just taken it to the dealer. It is at the dealer know having the passenger side valve cover taken off to inspect, I asked them to check the driver side as well (even though the noise is only on the passenger side).
I will wait until I hear from the dealer and work out the money aspect when I get back and get a detailed write up from the dealer and then go to my buddies shop and work something out with him. He already said to let him know what happens and he will work with me. I'm hoping he doesn't back down on his word. Unfortunately right now I am not scheduled to fly back until April 21st. I may modify my travel and fly back over a weekend.
03-30-17, 09:12 PM
#95
Tallcaguy seems convinced that the timing belt being on backwards is at fault. I'd like to share some thoughts and my own very recent and funny experience with this.
Thoughts: many timing belts do not have factory marks at all. The belt I just replaced on my LS did not have any marks, so was it forwards or backwards? How could it have been installed with no marks? There is no backward or forward on belts like these because the technician is supposed to make the marks himself. This is the age old process of marking it out yourself. Watch the popular youtube video posted in the FAQ and you will see how it works. I'm not saying that 02legend's shop used that method for sure but I believe it's a pretty standard procedure.
My kinda funny story: I've replaced enough timing belts on enough cars that when I bought my LS 2 months ago, I planned to do it myself, not even knowing all of the details yet. I ended up replacing it "backwards" but I also used the make-your-own-marks method. The cam lines lined still lined up and everything lined up with my own marks.
I buttoned it all back up, went to start it and it cranked just fine but would not fire. I freaked out. I immediately started searching the web for answers. One of the places I found was this thread. "OH MY GOD, did I install that belt backwards?" "Why should that even matter?" "Did I somehow just destroy all my valves?" Imagine how freaked-out I was. I just bought the car and I immediately wrecked it?
I tore it all apart and reversed the belt. I also checked it again against my own marks from the first belt. It still lined up the same as it did before. I scratched my head and set the old belt down on the counter. And then I saw it...
My smartkey had not left it's place on the counter in days. That's right... the engine wouldn't fire because I did not have my key in the car when I tried to start it. The orientation of the belt meant nothing, I'm just a smartkey noob.
It cost me $63 of coolant and many hours of time to learn that ridiculous lesson but once it was back together and I had my key in my hand, it fired right up and runs great now.
So, this does not prove the shop did not cause any damage but it does prove that timing belts do not require a front/back orientation to work.
Thoughts: many timing belts do not have factory marks at all. The belt I just replaced on my LS did not have any marks, so was it forwards or backwards? How could it have been installed with no marks? There is no backward or forward on belts like these because the technician is supposed to make the marks himself. This is the age old process of marking it out yourself. Watch the popular youtube video posted in the FAQ and you will see how it works. I'm not saying that 02legend's shop used that method for sure but I believe it's a pretty standard procedure.
My kinda funny story: I've replaced enough timing belts on enough cars that when I bought my LS 2 months ago, I planned to do it myself, not even knowing all of the details yet. I ended up replacing it "backwards" but I also used the make-your-own-marks method. The cam lines lined still lined up and everything lined up with my own marks.
I buttoned it all back up, went to start it and it cranked just fine but would not fire. I freaked out. I immediately started searching the web for answers. One of the places I found was this thread. "OH MY GOD, did I install that belt backwards?" "Why should that even matter?" "Did I somehow just destroy all my valves?" Imagine how freaked-out I was. I just bought the car and I immediately wrecked it?
I tore it all apart and reversed the belt. I also checked it again against my own marks from the first belt. It still lined up the same as it did before. I scratched my head and set the old belt down on the counter. And then I saw it...
My smartkey had not left it's place on the counter in days. That's right... the engine wouldn't fire because I did not have my key in the car when I tried to start it. The orientation of the belt meant nothing, I'm just a smartkey noob.
It cost me $63 of coolant and many hours of time to learn that ridiculous lesson but once it was back together and I had my key in my hand, it fired right up and runs great now.
So, this does not prove the shop did not cause any damage but it does prove that timing belts do not require a front/back orientation to work.
03-30-17, 11:16 PM
#96
Lexus Champion
The marks are an installation guide - that's it and that's all. Toyota even says to make marks if you need to pull the timing belt and reuse for any reason, like a head job or a engine rebuild. Many aftermarket belts don't have the markings like OEM - I did a belt on a friend's Subaru with a Gates kit and it had the marking for the crank at service position, but not the cam marks like the OEM one did. Might be an indication of a mechanic who doesn't pay attention to the small things but if a timing belt was asymmetrical then marks matter.
03-31-17, 06:29 AM
#97
Lexus Fanatic
Thread Starter
I appreciate every one's words and thoughts about the ordeal I am dealing with right now. To the extent of knowing the shop, I personally know the person who runs the shop (20+ years), he is not a technician at all. He handles all of the schedules, parts orders, etc. I have talked with and somewhat know the primary tech/mechanic, met him a few years ago. At the time of getting the work done on my car I did not know another tech was hired as the shop was becoming very busy. I don't know his background or capabilities. I assumed the primary tech was going to be doing the work. The shop does all basic repairs and duties, but does specialize in German cars. I did ask if they were capable of doing the work and I was assured it would be no problem. However, now my buddy said the shop will never touch a Lexus timing belt again.
I am very mechanically inclined and would have attempted this myself if I had a garage to work on the car in, as well as a backup car (looking for a beater now). I tend to do all of my own work unless it is something I don't have to the tools for or if I know it's going to take me a far longer time to complete than a shop as I have a very busy work schedule. I have only been home 3 days since mid February. I should have just waited when I was home long enough and just taken it to the dealer. It is at the dealer know having the passenger side valve cover taken off to inspect, I asked them to check the driver side as well (even though the noise is only on the passenger side).
I will wait until I hear from the dealer and work out the money aspect when I get back and get a detailed write up from the dealer and then go to my buddies shop and work something out with him. He already said to let him know what happens and he will work with me. I'm hoping he doesn't back down on his word. Unfortunately right now I am not scheduled to fly back until April 21st. I may modify my travel and fly back over a weekend.
I am very mechanically inclined and would have attempted this myself if I had a garage to work on the car in, as well as a backup car (looking for a beater now). I tend to do all of my own work unless it is something I don't have to the tools for or if I know it's going to take me a far longer time to complete than a shop as I have a very busy work schedule. I have only been home 3 days since mid February. I should have just waited when I was home long enough and just taken it to the dealer. It is at the dealer know having the passenger side valve cover taken off to inspect, I asked them to check the driver side as well (even though the noise is only on the passenger side).
I will wait until I hear from the dealer and work out the money aspect when I get back and get a detailed write up from the dealer and then go to my buddies shop and work something out with him. He already said to let him know what happens and he will work with me. I'm hoping he doesn't back down on his word. Unfortunately right now I am not scheduled to fly back until April 21st. I may modify my travel and fly back over a weekend.
My travel has been up a little this year, and I noticed that when I was in Toronto, I didn't really have too much time to think about the LS (although I do remember posting that I had set off the fire alarm in my hotel cooking steak lol). Your car will get sorted out, I tend to believe the original shop has to and will take responsibility--I mean I do tend to like things in writing and get them over with, but for the most part, people's word does stand for something. We all know in business, we lose some, often more than we would like. This shop lost on this job, and they will make good, that's the way I'd look at it.....
03-31-17, 09:51 AM
#98
The marks are an installation guide - that's it and that's all. Toyota even says to make marks if you need to pull the timing belt and reuse for any reason, like a head job or a engine rebuild. Many aftermarket belts don't have the markings like OEM - I did a belt on a friend's Subaru with a Gates kit and it had the marking for the crank at service position, but not the cam marks like the OEM one did. Might be an indication of a mechanic who doesn't pay attention to the small things but if a timing belt was asymmetrical then marks matter.
By the way, you DIY's are pretty good if you can do the TB. Watched my neighbor do his Tundra (similar V8). It's a lot of work. I had a 4 wheel drive SUV for 5 years and did all the work on it. Fixed the wiring, replaced the cylinder head, replaced the alternator multiple times, door locks, preventative maintenance, etc, etc. Bought an LS so I could take a break from wrenching. So far, so good.
03-31-17, 10:41 AM
#99
Lexus Champion
By the way, you DIY's are pretty good if you can do the TB. Watched my neighbor do his Tundra (similar V8). It's a lot of work. I had a 4 wheel drive SUV for 5 years and did all the work on it. Fixed the wiring, replaced the cylinder head, replaced the alternator multiple times, door locks, preventative maintenance, etc, etc. Bought an LS so I could take a break from wrenching. So far, so good.
Be glad it's not a Ford 4.0L V6 in the Explorer/Ranger or a VW/Audi that involves stripping down the front end or pulling the engine just to get access to the cam drive system.
03-31-17, 10:45 AM
#100
Lexus Fanatic
Thread Starter
I've done 5 timing belts so far, 4 Toyotas and 1 Subaru - the Subaru and LS400/Cressida ones were not too bad because RWD, but I stripped the crank threads on the Cressida and lost the crank bolt on the LS. The Camry and Sienna ones I did weren't as bad as I thought but FWD doesn't give you too much wiggle room and the Sienna was a VVT-i engine, and getting the rear cam lined up was a chore - the CEL light up on the first run, the rear/left cam was off by 2 degrees to set off an cam/crank correlation code. I told my parents to take their 430 into the dealer, wasn't cheap($1700 for 90K maintenance and water pump), but they got an ES350 loaner from it and I was able to go on a ride instead of wrench.
Be glad it's not a Ford 4.0L V6 in the Explorer/Ranger or a VW/Audi that involves stripping down the front end or pulling the engine just to get access to the cam drive system.
Be glad it's not a Ford 4.0L V6 in the Explorer/Ranger or a VW/Audi that involves stripping down the front end or pulling the engine just to get access to the cam drive system.
I have never had a car with a timing belt before, nor have I had a V8 until the LS430....every car from 4 cyl OHV to 6 cyl DOHC and in-between has had chains. Not sure which 2017's would have a belt, seems like an unnecessary extra maintenance item, but it is what it is for us....
Imagine a Audi S4 V8, usually if that needs work on the timing chains, the car is disposed of.....and that was a hot car in 2005....my uncle is ok with his A6's, sometimes he even has a combo of HID and non HID headlamps depending on his mood and what work he had to do...but he told me just last weekend, "You don't want an A8." Said the V8 is too compact and just not generally fun to work on....
edit: The 4 cyl OHV had gears, just remembered that as I had to ask my mom to borrow her credit card to order a set of gears. I replaced them myself as a teen, and wouldn't you know, the car wouldn't run properly. Turns out, a pin in the distributor had fallen out so the rotor would not stay fixed relative to where it should have been. I fixed that with a paper clip. The place where I ordered the gears, still exists today. Good for them
https://www.ipdusa.com/
Last edited by Johnhav430; 03-31-17 at 10:50 AM.
03-31-17, 11:26 AM
#101
Lexus Champion
I don't really remember the Cressida but remember I liked it...don't even know if that's a 80's or 90's car.....RWD right?
I have never had a car with a timing belt before, nor have I had a V8 until the LS430....every car from 4 cyl OHV to 6 cyl DOHC and in-between has had chains. Not sure which 2017's would have a belt, seems like an unnecessary extra maintenance item, but it is what it is for us....
Imagine a Audi S4 V8, usually if that needs work on the timing chains, the car is disposed of.....and that was a hot car in 2005....my uncle is ok with his A6's, sometimes he even has a combo of HID and non HID headlamps depending on his mood and what work he had to do...but he told me just last weekend, "You don't want an A8." Said the V8 is too compact and just not generally fun to work on....
edit: The 4 cyl OHV had gears, just remembered that as I had to ask my mom to borrow her credit card to order a set of gears. I replaced them myself as a teen, and wouldn't you know, the car wouldn't run properly. Turns out, a pin in the distributor had fallen out so the rotor would not stay fixed relative to where it should have been. I fixed that with a paper clip. The place where I ordered the gears, still exists today. Good for them
https://www.ipdusa.com/
I have never had a car with a timing belt before, nor have I had a V8 until the LS430....every car from 4 cyl OHV to 6 cyl DOHC and in-between has had chains. Not sure which 2017's would have a belt, seems like an unnecessary extra maintenance item, but it is what it is for us....
Imagine a Audi S4 V8, usually if that needs work on the timing chains, the car is disposed of.....and that was a hot car in 2005....my uncle is ok with his A6's, sometimes he even has a combo of HID and non HID headlamps depending on his mood and what work he had to do...but he told me just last weekend, "You don't want an A8." Said the V8 is too compact and just not generally fun to work on....
edit: The 4 cyl OHV had gears, just remembered that as I had to ask my mom to borrow her credit card to order a set of gears. I replaced them myself as a teen, and wouldn't you know, the car wouldn't run properly. Turns out, a pin in the distributor had fallen out so the rotor would not stay fixed relative to where it should have been. I fixed that with a paper clip. The place where I ordered the gears, still exists today. Good for them
https://www.ipdusa.com/
Ford's using an oil-bathed timing belt in the new 1.0L I3 EcoBoost in the Fiesta, like what Honda uses with their consumer-grade lawnmower engines. Honda and Subaru still use timing belts in their V6s, the WRX STI still uses the EJ-series engine which uses a timing belt still. GM, VW and Fiat still use them in some engines.
Mercedes V8s are also bad with timing chains - it's considered a maintenance item and the way to replace them is use a grinder to grind off an link and then to "roll" in the new chain while keeping the cams/crank timed - the plastic tensioner and guide rails as well as the cam oiling pipes and tensioner should be serviced as well.
04-03-17, 01:12 PM
#102
Just got a call from the dealer and am really starting to wonder if they are trying to take me for money now. I still haven't gotten a response about the initial fix of $500 that did nothing and how that was going to be applied to any future work. They just said that whoever did the work (tensioner) stripped out the holes on the oil pump and retapped it for larger bolts and now I need a new oil pump ($1500) parts and labor. I have attached two photos of what the dealer just sent to me. According to the first photo, the bolt on the left is the bolt that is supposed to be used for the tensioner. The one on the right is one of the bolts that was removed. The bottom photo is supposedly what was installed when the tensioner was removed today. They have stopped at this point and are awaiting my call. I am tempted to tell them to just put the car back together at this point. It seems like I am going down a rabbit hole. If I just quickly Google oil pump for my car (06), I'm seeing roughly $300+ for an oil pump. I did call back to verify the cost was to reflect the part and labor. With their hourly rate at $130, that's roughly 9 hours in labor, which does not make sense if they have removed almost everything already.
Last edited by 02Legend; 04-03-17 at 02:15 PM. Reason: Adjusted numbers
04-03-17, 02:41 PM
#103
and did your independent tell you they did this, or another surprise. this nightmare just keeps getting worse. what kind of reputation does the dealer have? honest or not? my local dealer is really good, great reputation and I trust them. expensive, yes but these cars did cost a lot when new. you seem headed to court for what the independent has done and a former friend for an adversary. sad
04-03-17, 02:48 PM
#104
and did your independent tell you they did this, or another surprise. this nightmare just keeps getting worse. what kind of reputation does the dealer have? honest or not? my local dealer is really good, great reputation and I trust them. expensive, yes but these cars did cost a lot when new. you seem headed to court for what the independent has done and a former friend for an adversary. sad
04-03-17, 03:40 PM
#105
Independent did not say anything in regards to this. My buddy is trying to get a hold of his tech, not understanding this as every time I call him he has to get a hold of his tech. However, my buddy is unaware of any of this as he said his tech would have told him (I honestly don't trust his tech). Now, this is the only time the tensioner has been removed and replaced, had all the detailed service records when I bought the car. When I initially took the car to the dealer the first time, they did point out bolts that were missing and hose clamps that were not put on correctly after my buddies shop did the work. I was standing right there when the dealer pulled the engine cover off and could clearly see what they were talking about. This is the third Lexus I have owned and when going to this specific dealership I have had no negative interactions or problems, in fact they helped me with a big issue I was facing with a Toyota dealer.