Alternator replacement 2005 LS 430
#46
Pole Position
With the shipping cost for a heavy alternator, even if Denso accepted alternator cores, you wouldn't net much, if any, $$. Suggest calling a few local auto parts stores and ask if they pay for cores only, without a purchase.
#47
Thanks for the original post chunkyda
I followed instructions to the tee and worked slowly but still was able to finish the job under 2 hours.
I went for Duralast rebuilt alternator from Autozone because I wanted it on the same day (plus the lifetime warranty which is easier to avail locally). Car is back on the road. I feel lucky that it had died in the garage rather than someone on the road.
I still haven't returned the core and thinking of rebuilding it myself as a spare. Are there any rebuild kits for OEM unit? How to find out what is wrong and needs to be replaced?
I followed instructions to the tee and worked slowly but still was able to finish the job under 2 hours.
I went for Duralast rebuilt alternator from Autozone because I wanted it on the same day (plus the lifetime warranty which is easier to avail locally). Car is back on the road. I feel lucky that it had died in the garage rather than someone on the road.
I still haven't returned the core and thinking of rebuilding it myself as a spare. Are there any rebuild kits for OEM unit? How to find out what is wrong and needs to be replaced?
#48
Thanks for the original post chunkyda
I followed instructions to the tee and worked slowly but still was able to finish the job under 2 hours.
I went for Duralast rebuilt alternator from Autozone because I wanted it on the same day (plus the lifetime warranty which is easier to avail locally). Car is back on the road. I feel lucky that it had died in the garage rather than someone on the road.
I still haven't returned the core and thinking of rebuilding it myself as a spare. Are there any rebuild kits for OEM unit? How to find out what is wrong and needs to be replaced?
I followed instructions to the tee and worked slowly but still was able to finish the job under 2 hours.
I went for Duralast rebuilt alternator from Autozone because I wanted it on the same day (plus the lifetime warranty which is easier to avail locally). Car is back on the road. I feel lucky that it had died in the garage rather than someone on the road.
I still haven't returned the core and thinking of rebuilding it myself as a spare. Are there any rebuild kits for OEM unit? How to find out what is wrong and needs to be replaced?
#49
Now starting voltage starts at 14.3 and idle is still dropping to 13.4 to 13.6 but when car is running on the road it is between 14.0 and 14.3
#50
Before replacement idle voltage started with 13.9 and then kept dropping to 13.4 and was 13.3 to 13.6 even when car was on road.
Now starting voltage starts at 14.3 and idle is still dropping to 13.4 to 13.6 but when car is running on the road it is between 14.0 and 14.3
Now starting voltage starts at 14.3 and idle is still dropping to 13.4 to 13.6 but when car is running on the road it is between 14.0 and 14.3
#51
Pole Position
I have to apologize but I have not read this entire thread. I have an original alternator from 2001. Your readings from your new alternator are identical to mine other than what the output is on the road as I am not able to check. How are you able to get your readings when driving on the highway?
#52
Pole Position
I have to apologize but I have not read this entire thread. I have an original alternator from 2001. Your readings from your new alternator are identical to mine other than what the output is on the road as I am not able to check. How are you able to get your readings when driving on the highway?
#53
Boca, suggest you check out the alternator output soon. Mileage isn't the only factor affecting alternators. This was my experience on my '01: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...001-ls430.html
Last edited by Bocatrip; 11-04-15 at 03:24 PM.
#55
Before replacement idle voltage started with 13.9 and then kept dropping to 13.4 and was 13.3 to 13.6 even when car was on road.
Now starting voltage starts at 14.3 and idle is still dropping to 13.4 to 13.6 but when car is running on the road it is between 14.0 and 14.3
Now starting voltage starts at 14.3 and idle is still dropping to 13.4 to 13.6 but when car is running on the road it is between 14.0 and 14.3
The previous readings were right after alternator change and they may be lower because battery must not be fully charges after alternator failure.
#56
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
The problem is measuring voltage is not the proper way to test an alternator. Voltage varies based on the load. Measuring amperage is what truly tells you if you have an issue. This is why electrical shops remove the alternator from a vehicle to test it properly. I'm sure RKW could elaborate on this as well.
#57
Pole Position
It's a pretty simple equation: volts x amps = watts. Volts is the force or pressure of the electrical current. Amps is the amount of electricity flowing. The LS OEM alternator is rated at 130 amps. The voltage varies depending upon the wattage demands (current draw) of the accessories, engine running and battery needs.
As an alternator ages, the maximum voltage output slowly declines. A reduced voltage output results in reduced wattage output. (Ex. A 1 volt drop in alternator output = 130 less wattage output.) A healthy alternator should be able to increase voltage as the wattage demands of the engine, accessories and battery call for it. Increased wattage demands are the highest just after the engine is started since the battery is drawn down by the starter motor. Since wattage demands vary, voltage will vary, so measuring voltage output under various conditions (to meet the wattage demands) is a measure of the health of the alternator. So, as the wattage demands of the vehicle increase, so should the alternator voltage output. This is why alternators are tested "under load" to determine if the voltage output will increase to meet the increased demands placed on the alternator. This also explains why alternator voltage output fluctuates, as the wattage demands vary.
A healthy battery should put out between 12.5 - 12.8 volts standing alone. A healthy alternator should deliver 13.8 volts or more. This doesn't mean your car won't start if the alternator output is below 13.7; it means the battery is not being charged sufficiently. Battery voltage output slowly drops over time; alternators voltage output slowly drops over usage (internal wear and heat).
See also: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...or-output.html
As an alternator ages, the maximum voltage output slowly declines. A reduced voltage output results in reduced wattage output. (Ex. A 1 volt drop in alternator output = 130 less wattage output.) A healthy alternator should be able to increase voltage as the wattage demands of the engine, accessories and battery call for it. Increased wattage demands are the highest just after the engine is started since the battery is drawn down by the starter motor. Since wattage demands vary, voltage will vary, so measuring voltage output under various conditions (to meet the wattage demands) is a measure of the health of the alternator. So, as the wattage demands of the vehicle increase, so should the alternator voltage output. This is why alternators are tested "under load" to determine if the voltage output will increase to meet the increased demands placed on the alternator. This also explains why alternator voltage output fluctuates, as the wattage demands vary.
A healthy battery should put out between 12.5 - 12.8 volts standing alone. A healthy alternator should deliver 13.8 volts or more. This doesn't mean your car won't start if the alternator output is below 13.7; it means the battery is not being charged sufficiently. Battery voltage output slowly drops over time; alternators voltage output slowly drops over usage (internal wear and heat).
See also: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...or-output.html
Last edited by Tom57; 11-06-15 at 11:46 AM.
#58
It's a pretty simple equation: volts x amps = watts. Volts is the force or pressure of the electrical current. Amps is the amount of electricity flowing. The LS OEM alternator is rated at 130 amps. The voltage varies depending upon the wattage demands (current draw) of the accessories, engine running and battery needs.
As an alternator ages, the maximum voltage output slowly declines. A reduced voltage output results in reduced wattage output. (Ex. A 1 volt drop in alternator output = 130 less wattage output.) A healthy alternator should be able to increase voltage as the wattage demands of the engine, accessories and battery call for it. Increased wattage demands are the highest just after the engine is started since the battery is drawn down by the starter motor. Since wattage demands vary, voltage will vary, so measuring voltage output under various conditions (to meet the wattage demands) is a measure of the health of the alternator. So, as the wattage demands of the vehicle increase, so should the alternator voltage output.
A healthy battery should put out between 12.5 - 12.8 volts standing alone. A healthy alternator should deliver 13.8 volts or more. This doesn't mean your car won't start if the alternator output is below 13.7; it means the battery is not being charged sufficiently. Battery voltage output slowly drops over time; alternators voltage output slowly drops over usage (internal wear and heat).
See also: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...or-output.html
As an alternator ages, the maximum voltage output slowly declines. A reduced voltage output results in reduced wattage output. (Ex. A 1 volt drop in alternator output = 130 less wattage output.) A healthy alternator should be able to increase voltage as the wattage demands of the engine, accessories and battery call for it. Increased wattage demands are the highest just after the engine is started since the battery is drawn down by the starter motor. Since wattage demands vary, voltage will vary, so measuring voltage output under various conditions (to meet the wattage demands) is a measure of the health of the alternator. So, as the wattage demands of the vehicle increase, so should the alternator voltage output.
A healthy battery should put out between 12.5 - 12.8 volts standing alone. A healthy alternator should deliver 13.8 volts or more. This doesn't mean your car won't start if the alternator output is below 13.7; it means the battery is not being charged sufficiently. Battery voltage output slowly drops over time; alternators voltage output slowly drops over usage (internal wear and heat).
See also: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...or-output.html
Last edited by Bocatrip; 11-06-15 at 11:19 AM.
#59
Pole Position
Bocatrip, Amazon is offering a competitive price for authentic Denso re-manufactured (#210-0508) alternators.
*Note: In '04 model year, some early production LS's had the Denso #210-0508 alternator, and later production had the Denso #210-0570.
*Note: In '04 model year, some early production LS's had the Denso #210-0508 alternator, and later production had the Denso #210-0570.
#60
Pole Position
Summary of Denso Reman. Alternator Part Numbers
2001 - 2003 > # 210-0508
2004 > Either # 210-0508 or # 210-0570. If it's a 3-pin connector, then 0508; if 4-pin, then 0570.
2005 - 2006 > # 210-0570.
Last edited by Tom57; 11-06-15 at 12:22 PM.