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I believe Koyo (42410-50010) is the OEM manufacturer. I have no problem with mine................... This might very well be the part you need. I can't swear to it. but I have an idea. Go for it... Good luck.
i would like to contribute to your topic. And also to thank you for a hig quality instruction. It worked well.
Guys, if you are stuck at one of the steps or do not know how to proceed (e.g. to remove the dust reflector), please review this as it will help you to complete the job:
1) Replacing rear wheel hub assembly on LS430 2001-2006 does not (!) require disassembly of ball joints, control arms, or axles. The technical service manual, however, recommends it. If you proceed with service manual info, the job will take 5-10 hours more to accomplish for both sides.
2) At the time of removing axle nut (which is torqued to 214 foot pounds), use Blaster lubricant to lubricate threads. Give it some time to work, as there is a risk of thread damage due to rust.
3) Do not apply parking brake when removing/installing brake rotors.
4) Place chokes for the front wheels before you lift rear.
5) Axle nut may be hard to unscrew. Use a long cheater bar and proceed slowly. Make sure you install the correct socket fully as it may damage the nut if the force is applied at a wrong angle.
6) Replace the axle nut
7) Dust deflector which surrounds the abs rotor and provides the hole for speed sensor is a part that is recommended to replace. However, if you haven’t done wheel hub job before the deflector will have a second life.
i would like to clarify some information about unpressing it. As RKW77080 mentioned, there are two holes that can be used to insert a thick screwdriver and pry the deflector off to the center of the car. While the speed sensor hole seems to play no role except for giving space for the sensor, the brake caliper hole contains threads that are subject to immediate damage if you start working with your screwdriver in it.
My advice will be to avoid using caliper holes for anything except for properly tightening caliper bolts.
8) There is a very simple way to unpress deflector without using screwdrivers. What you do is go to Home Depot and buy a simple pry tool. A good one will be a Vaughan crow pry bar. Then insert the 90 degree end at the bottom of the deflector ( you will have enough space there if you moved axle in advance using puller). Once you attached the bar from the bottom, use the leverage and pull the pry tool down from the other end using hammer, another pry bar, or another applicable tool. One or two pulls using this method will instantly unpress the deflector.
9) Use small metal sheets to reinstall deflector. You can put three of them to the left, right and what is really important to the upper part of deflector. By doing so, you will ensure your deflector doesn’t bend and event attaches to the hub.
In case if you see uneven distance in between deflector and abs rotor at two or more points, unpress deflector and follow the step 9 again.
Step 6 - Remove the 32mm axle nut. Important - you will need a 12-point 32mm socket.
Step 7 - Use a gear puller to push the axle into the wheel hub.
Step 8 - Using a large blade screw driver, pry the dust deflector away from the back of the wheel hub. You can access the back of the dust deflector through the speed sensor hole, and the brake caliper’s lower bolt hole.
Step 9 - Here’s a picture with the axle pushed back. You can see the dust deflector is obstructing access to the 4 wheel hub bolts. The dust deflector is pressed into the back of the wheel hub. You need to pry it off so you can access the bolts.
Will this method work for a 2008 LS460? I cannot remove the 4 - 17mm bolts due to the dust deflector being in the way.
I can confirm same diy works for an LS460. Thanks so much to OP. Adding tidbit for LS460 owners...the axle shaft and thread is an M26x1.5 and the axle nut which has a longer neck is Part number 90177-26001. The axle nut does not have a cotter pin...there is a slot where you divot the nut into the thread opening position.
The hardest part is banging off the axle and reinstalling the dust cover. I boogered the threads and purchased a special die to chase/cut the threads on the axle. Good luck!
it was bad, i had to remove the hub and hammer the bearing from inside.
Thats exactly what happened to mine. I just threaded the bolts in from the opposite side and put the puller on them and out she came. I lost all faith when the bastard seperated, but hey, life goes on and you deal with it.
I consolidated and printed these instructions for my independent shop to replace both of my rear bearing assemblies (feel free to use my attached PDF). Both rears exhibited a metal grinding sound only at low speeds (1-50km/h), no vibrations at all, and no noise or vibrations at highway speeds. I also recalibrated the parking brake on both sides to rule that out as the source of the noise.
The independent shop messed up reinstalling a speed sensor, using an incorrect bolt and causing the speed sensor to sit too far away from the reluctor, causing ABS to engage every time the car slowed from 20km/h to 5, since at low speeds, the other 3 wheels registered a speed and the one wheel registered a skid/zero-spin condition. They also didn't have the Toyota SST for reinstalling the dust cover, which they reused since it was in good condition, so they had to fashion some sort of hack. Still cheaper than paying dealership price for this work, and a lot less hassle than doing it myself.
I used 2 x Koyo 3DACF044DCFG from Amayama, $75USD / $101CAD each before shipping. OEM would have cost 4 times as much, each. The shop commented on the high quality of the Koyo part.
Went to do this repair today and the lower caliper bolt is insanely tight. I can feel it stripping out the knuckle.
The old owner totally f-ed up this up probably just ran it in with an impact.
Looks like Im in for a new knuckle...
Tightened it the best I can and I'll probably get the dealer to deal with it.
I had mine done a year ago and I remember my Indy having a fairly tough time getting the passenger side rear axle hub off. Now I've done both axle hubs on the passenger side front and rear. Sure hope the driver's side holds up! Between the Koyo axle hub and the labor it wasn't a cheap repair!
I had a couple drinks and calmed down. ended up ordering a used knuckle and new caliper bolts on ebay. there's no bushings in there so it should be fine regardless of age.
Anyone have that diagram which shows an exploded view of the components with the torque of each shown? I can't seem to find it on here.
I replaced the drivers side today and it was a piece of cake but a fiddley job as others have stated.
Also one tip for this job to avoid using a pry bar is to take the cap off the centre off the wheel.
You snug the axle nut on, install the wheel and lower to the ground.
Torquing to 214 ft lbs is easy when you are standing and can use your weight.
Then jack up the car, take the wheel off and put the dust cap back on with a new cotter pin and reinstall the wheel.
09-04-17, 09:14 PM
