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When i do my brakes next...i think i will have to change rotors a well. I have "heat spots" on both rotors. Every few inches are darker spots in a circular pattern. I dont think the pads were bedded in properly at the last job-not in my possession.
I have considered getting them re-surfaced but i have read some bad things about doing so within 10k miles. I think i am still leaning towards a ebay package with the oem toyota rotors and toyota pads for about 250 shipped. Second alternative was Brembo Blanks and Akebono pads (oem pad supplier for Toyota anyhow). I have not had experience with Napa pads but will keep in mind.
jmo, because I did "bed" my brakes on the BMW, meaning some repeated stops never coming to a full stop blah blah blah where brand new rotors turned blue and red from heat. It dawned on me, you don't do this with a brand new car, nor does the salesperson tell you to do so. then someone pointed out, you used brand new OE BMW rotors and pads. Did you happen to notice the hang tag in the brake pad boxes stating to go easy on the brakes for the first 1000 km? My conclusion and that of some others, is that bedding of brakes is for a track setup, and a way to shorten the life of your OE setup. my .02
^^ Im going to humbly say/diagree somebit. Bedding the pads in (whether oem replacements/track setup/new car) is a crucial step to allow the brakes to work/wear/function properly. What i was saying was The previous owner may not have done it right which has led to my problem about 10k miles later literally since the last documented brake job. Unless we are mechanics....for most of us this process does not come around often enough.
There is caution to be taken when just replacing pads and not rotors- Meaning at the minimum they should be turned if within spec. The rotors have also worn to the impression left by the last brake pad bed in process (whether right or wrong)...
Aside...im not calling you wrong. What Bmw do you drive?
Removed the Lexus battery and battery tray, cleaned out dirt & debris from tray and then sanded battery hold-down tabs to bare metal (corrosion removed paint). Dipped each end of battery hold down in POR-15 and allowed to dry until there were two solid coats. Cleaned up battery terminals and posts and used battery terminal protection chemical. The amount of dirt & grime in the space around the tray was substantial. Why is this important? There’s an electric harness under the battery tray and if corrosion eats into it I can’t imagine the cost or consequences.
Removed the Lexus battery and battery tray, cleaned out dirt & debris from tray and then sanded battery hold-down tabs to bare metal (corrosion removed paint). Dipped each end of battery hold down in POR-15 and allowed to dry until there were two solid coats. Cleaned up battery terminals and posts and used battery terminal protection chemical. The amount of dirt & grime in the space around the tray was substantial. Why is this important? There’s an electric harness under the battery tray and if corrosion eats into it I can’t imagine the cost or consequences.
Huge difference with the new brake setup. Brakes were always really poor on the car despite changing the pads 2 years ago. With the new rotors I don't have that deadspace in the break pedal I used to have. Should have swapped it way sooner.
Did transmission and differential fluid flushes. Very easy process by myself.
^^What fluid did you use? Oem or aftermarket like Amsoil? Did you measure the amount out? Were you experiencing slugging shifts/gear hang?
I today..
Swapped My passenger Seat-belt height adjustment switch with a good one.....this minor broken switch in my interior was buggin the issh out of me....It is a fairly fragile rocker style switch. 10 min job.
New battery and tried to restore the headlights on my 2002 LS430 and 2005 Camry. The lights and the Camry look good. May have to eventually replace the lights on the LS430.
I ordered the first of 2 timing belt kits through Rockauto.com yesterday. Going to do my 2005 next month since it's really past due (56,000 miles and 13 years old). I'll be doing the belt on my 2001 in June ... I also bought the Schlay harmonic balancer holding tool, which should make this job a breeze...
Re-foamed the OEM sub-woofer. Widened the sub opening instead of removing the hole back seat. I've never removed the seat but based on time and pictures widening the hole seems like it's 10x easier.
I used invisible glass with (ok a fool and his money are easily parted) an invisible glass handle that has a microfiber on it--and cleaned all the glass, but namely the windshield and rear glass. This seems to make it quite easy to put pressure on the windshield, while cleaning it. So far, it does seem to be streak free? I mean let's face it, at least for me, the only thing that ever worked was ammonia/water with a newspaper buff. But who has newspapers anymore? Windex is futile with paper towels...
edit ps I ordered two knock-off park assist sensors for $28, free shipping, then got another 20% off due to some eBay 20% off anything, up to $100 credit. I got some other stuff since the coupon was good to mix/match items from multiple sellers. I kept looking at the RH heated/dimming mirror glass for $186, thinking it would be $150 net, but I couldn't pull the trigger. It's not worth $150 to me, even if the list is $389 (crazy)....
02-21-18, 04:44 AM
