Mobil1 and oem filters on all my cars since '95 and never had one issue with leaks or engine failure. I change early, around 4500-5000 miles. I personally don't feel safe going 10k and it's not that expensive when DIY ($35) and saves time.

 

I change oil myself, it's very easy.

Oil: Whichever big-name ILSAC GF-5, API SN, 5W-30 synthetic that is on sale ($24 pretax) and in a 4.4 or 4.5L jug (since 2002 oil fill spec is 4.5L). In my area, those bottle sizes mean Castrol EDGE, Valvoline SynPower, and Mobil 1.

Dealerships recommend 5W-20 per TSB EG006-06, but I believe this is for their corporate average fuel economy (CAFE) ratings and not for engine protection. There is an incremental increase in fuel efficiency for all vehicles under that TSB (all UZ, GR, JZ, MZ, VZ engines), at a cost of less protection for your engine.

Oil Filter: Toyota/Denso 90915-20004. Several Toyota/Lexus vehicles have this filter installed at the factory and are then are specified to use the less effective 90915-YZZD3/YZZG1 afterwards.

Oil Filter Wrench: 14-edge 73mm wrench cap. You can get one on eBay or Amazon.

I believe that when changing the oil every 8000kms per maintenance spec, you don't have to worry about the insignificant differences between each major brand of synthetic oil. Conventional Toyota Genuine Motor Oil 5W-30 is probably perfectly fine as well. Just make sure the oil you use is 5W-30 and conforms to ILSAC GF-5 and API SN specs.

By the way, 10W-30 is specified in the owner's manual for climates that don't go below -18C / 0F.

 

The less protection part is completely untrue, thinner oils actually offer more protection, to understand why, please read Motor Oil 101

 

Napa platinum and eonos oil


Posted from ClubLexus.com App for Android

 

I use whatever full syn premium spec oil is on sale at Walmart - have been using Mobil 1 extended, Penzoil Platinum and ultra. For oil filters I have used Toyota OEM, WIX and lately Napa Platinum - again buying and stocking up when I see a sale. Changing oil and filter at 5k or apprx 6-9 months (lots of short trips) which ever comes first - we currently have 4 cars in the house (16 yo son just got 2010 Mazda 3) so I am changing oil every few months on one car or another.
When I change oil on a car I also check both engine and cabin air filters and clean (vacuum) or replace as necessary. And I check and clean both the MAF and throttle body (and vacuum out filter airbox) as necessary at same time. I also toss a bottle of techron or Gumout Redline Fuel System concentrated cleaner in the gas tank a week or two before oil change. The whole routine takes and hour to 90 min or so (taking my time), I find it very relaxing, and this routine keeps the cars running smooth as silk.

 

jabberwock glad your using the extended performance mobil 1 i have been trying to share the info with people for last couple of years its much better than the regular mobil 1 for 2 to 3$ a 5qt jug. safe driving to all

 

LsCowboy, can you comment on any extended life oil filters for the ls430?

 

.... I just drop it off at WestSide Lexus and let them do it lol.

 

It's kind of funny. Dealers tend to use mystery oil that comes in a big drum... Not too comforting. I plan on starting my own oil changes again. Going to be using mobile 1 and an extended life oil filter. Not sure which one yet but probably either Bosh or K&N.

 

believe it or not, although I am constantly researching oil and filters, my current favorite oil is Pennzoil Ultra (due to used oil analysis and new oil analysis results), but it is getting difficult to locate, and which grade to use is also a subject of great debate, both within Toyota engineering and at BobIsTheOilGuy.com - when you look at the NOACK volatility mass % loss, 1 hr @250°C and Boron content and several other factors, Pennzoil Ultra puts a whoopin on all Mobil 1 varieties

The reason there is debate, is that there are newer more modern oils (thinner) that get to vital engine parts faster, available now that were not available when your Lexus was new! - You did go and bone up on why thinner is better over at Motor Oil University, right?

Toyota is currently back-spec-ing the various models for much thinner oils, see chart below

and I know it sounds surprisinging, but the antidrainback valve may be the single most important feature of an oil filter in terms of preventing overall wear, a fact which makes my current number 1 choice for an oil filter for the LS400 & LS430 quite a shocker! - the Motorcraft FL-400s

This filter has caused some engines that were loud at startup with any other filter, to be quiet, prompting a reaction from me as George Takei would say: "Oh Myyyy!"

 

Does the list of oil filters you compiled for the LS400 also apply to the LS430?

 

yes, and they are not in any certain order

 

Wish i had my old LS to try this filter. It had a brief rattle at start up around 150k to 197k when real warm like 85 plus which did bother my a little as was a minor reason for trading it.. I imagine it was what the oil taking time to get up to the valves?

 

Did I miss the link to the list of filters?

 

here is the list of the world's most premium oil filters, in oversize, which I can expand if I have missed your favorite brand, they are in no particular order

Motorcraft --- FL-400S
WIX XP --- 51516XP
Fram Ultra --- XG3600
K&N --- HP-2009
Mobil 1 --- M1-209
Bosch Premium --- D3422
Purolator PureONE --- PL20195
NAPA Platinum --- PFL 41516
Amsoil --- EAO34
Royal Purple --- 20-400
Toyota (NipponDenso) --- 90915-20004 (made in Japan)
TRD (Toyota Racing Design) --- PTR43-00080 .....Note: this is not an oversize filter


PS - the K&N and Mobil 1 filters are the same filter internally, and with minute differences the Royal Purple and Toyota Racing Design (TRD) are as well, all 4 made on the same assembly line by Fram subsidiary FRAM Filtration (aka Champion)

the Amsoil and NAPA platinum are essentially the same internally as the Wix XP who manufacturers them, although Amsoil is transitioning to Champion (FRAM Filtration) for their manufacturing.