caverman

Did you replace your OEM sub with this one? If so, did it fit or did it have to be modified some? What were the steps to convert it to a 16 ohm speaker?

Bocatrip

Yes absolutely OEM audio anything on our LS430s are subpar to say the least. Getting them to work correctly and sound good by taking short cuts using aftermarkert speakers etc is another story. It's not an easy fix and many members have had issues over the long term. From the beginning when our cars where new the audiio systems were one of the weakest links in ownership. yes it is a disappointment. I have gotten by for 8 years be replacing speakers with OEM (subpar) speakers to keep my system going without blowing an amp and working. Yes, it's working but I'm careful not to blast the speakers and keep everything in check. For those who want to revamp the system with another one... good luck to you. It could be done if you would like to invest the money. For me....I love my LS430 and since it's an ancient car now... I have more important issues to keep it in good running condition. My sound system is working very well since I changed my Sub, and front speakers with OEM a number of years ago. For those that go the glue method or even aftermarket speaker replacement I have the feeling it
will be a temporary fix as Lexus likes to have total control over orginal equipment with no short cuts. Good luck to all. Bottom line is no car is perfect and I still love my trusty LS430!

rkw77080

Please take a look at the post below for some very insightful discussions...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...iled-pics.html

caverman

I'm going to try the liquid electrical tape and if that doesn't hold up then I'll be putting in an aftermarket Polk audio sub. The only thing really stopping me from going to the Polk sub is having to deal with getting to the sub in order to replace it. I don't get why Lexus had to make it so difficult.

Jabberwock

I replaced the OEM sub with the DVC 8 ohm per coil sub sourced from ebay.

The speaker can be wired as a 16 ohm speaker which is very simple to do - run a short length patch wire from VC 1 negative terminal to VC2 positive terminal. Then attach the positive speaker lead to the remaining positive VC terminal, and negative speaker lead to the other remaining VC terminal.

It fit pretty well - think I had to re-position the speaker mounting screw holes in the OEM mount and run the speaker wires out through the back trunk wall to the OEM connection under the seat but in general is was a good fit and a pretty easy replacement. Most time consuming is removing trim and seat parts but not difficult or complex at all. Had the new sub speaker in for almost a year with zero issues.

rkw77080

Getting to the subroofer is not all that difficult. To access it under the rear deck cover, you will need to remove the 3 nuts that hold the top of the seat-back in place - one each behind the two head rests, and one behind the arm rest (see circled in RED in drawing below). Pull the seat-back forward to create enough space to reach down and remove the 2 black plastic fasteners that hold the rear deck cover down. Once the plastic fasteners are off, you can stuff a couple of rolled-up towels under the rear deck cover to create enough space to unbolt and remove the subroofer.




Alternatively if you plan to access the subroofer frequently for removal, you can trim away portion of the rear deck cover under the speaker grill. In other words, enlarge the opening under the speaker grill. Use the indentation from the speaker grill as a guide and leave about 1/2" of material for the speaker grill to sit on. The larger opening will allow you to access the 4 mounting bolts/nuts and to remove the subroofer without disturbing the rear deck cover.

caverman

Thanks for the info. I'm still going to give the liquid tape a try but even if it works it's probably only a temporary fix. I'm betting I'll eventually have to just replace the sub and all of this is good info.