Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

To replace the filter you have to drop the pan which, a traditional drain and refill is just draining about 2 - 3 quarts. 6 quarts is a lot for simple drain and refill. If the pan was taken off, 5-6 quarts would be about normal. Toyota type IV is actually compatible with Dexron III but it's not recommended. The base between the two fluids are the same but the additives are different. You might considering having it redone with 100% the correct fluid but I am not convinced the noise is internal. Usually the symptoms of low fluid is poor shifting.

You should check the fluid after you have driven the car on the highway for about 20 min. You want to the transmission to be hot / full operating temp. The opposite of checking your oil. Make sure you are on very level ground.

ancdmd

Regarding my '02, I had my trans fluid completely drained and filled by very reputable Toyota/Lexus indie shop I use. Filled with Amsoil synthetic. No change in the noise.

I also removed the little panel from the bottom of the bellhousing and inspected the flywheel teeth, they are fine, and found no debris within the bellhousing. I have quadruple checked all heat shields and exhaust clamps, replaced the y-pipe with new clamps, and replaced all the rubber hangers to no avail.

sscheuri

a cracked exhaust clamp. Passenger side aft of the resonator. I pulled it off the car tonight. It was rubbing against the heat shield as it expanded and contracted.

I will test tomorrow when I start it up. I ordered a replacement clamp (2.25") through Amazon (stainless steel). Hopefully it is the right size.

Thanks for everyone's assistance. Appears that I don't have a full on exhaust gasket failure yet as this has been indicated as a common LS problem.

ancdmd

Glad you were able to find the source. I will scrutinize my exhaust again for the umpteenth time and see if I can find a crack somewhere in the resonator or something. I can't imagine this noise coming from anything else but the exhaust system.

sscheuri

I initially thought that the clamp was just loose (like the screw/bolt had given out or that it had worked its way off the pipe from vibration/heat), but once I started trying to loosen the bolt (which was completely seized), I realized the clamp had cracked apart fully. And the cracked ends were rubbing against the heatshield.

I will start with this clamp and likely it will cause some others to fail. I will replace as they break.

XJSFan

I was getting a weird running gear/servo type noise on and off, above 45 MPH, in my passenger dash behind the glove box. I finally realized after checking the A/C filter, that it was not staying in the up position when installed. You need to push it up when installing the white plastic cover to keep it in the up position(the cover slides under the filter to keep it up). If not, it tends to slide down and possibly come in contact with the fan.. I did this and the sound went away.

ls430lover

as an fyi relistened to your interior video, there are servos that go bad that make that noise inside the dash where your noise is coming from, the other video you posted seemed like a totally other issue there are two servos, i have one going bad that happens with the same noise that happens usually when its 60 to 75 degrees out not really hot with the ac on high more moderate temperatures trigger the servo. probably sensing humidity etc.
servos run 200 or around that each and u have to take the dash apart thats why i haven't had mine done i don't want rattles i don't know if this helps but was thinking of u and listened to the interior video again today at work

AndreasMet

Check the motor mounts. Mine did a similar noise and the techs could not figure it out. It was only when I removed the motor that it was obvious what was going on.

ancdmd

I had my mounts replaced. After replacing them the rattle noise did disappear for a few weeks but slowly returned. I am thinking with the new mounts it affected the exhaust system due to the motor sitting higher or something. If the noise is exhaust related, maybe this "adjustment" resulted in the source of the noise being subdued, but after a while it acclimated and starting rattling again.

I'm really thinking it might be in the resonator assembly somewhere. I've looked inside it and inspected the outside and it looks ok though, maybe I should take it off the car and see if I can inspect it in more detail.

nd010693

Hey guys,

As I mentioned in the other post, I believe this noise is coming from the butterfly valve in the throttle body.

Did you guys mess with it at all or disagree with this possibility?

ancdmd

How could it be the butterfly valve? The noise sounds like it's coming from under the car, like in the transmission area or rearward portion of the motor. I've removed the throttle body a couple times to clean it and didn't notice anything wrong with it, and the car runs great.

nd010693

Sorry, not sure why I didn't get an email for your reply. My noise started right after I cleaned the throttle body, so I figured that was the issue. I thought maybe I messed up the butterfly valve and now it is rattling back and forth. Noise could easily travel to sound like it is coming from elsewhere. I could have sworn my front right hub was bad but ended up being the rear. It's hard to tell exactly what direction noises come from. Only way to find out if it is the throttle body is to get a new one. $600 from Lexus of south Atlanta parts.

rkw77080

There's at least one other way to rule out the throttle body as your source of the clinking noise. Simply remove the plastic air intake tube to expose the butterfly valve, and then run the engine to see if you can hear the noise from it. Running the engine with un-filtered air for just a short time should not hurt anything. I seriously doubt the butterfly valve is in any way related to the clinking noise.

nd010693

That was my plan. I'm just waiting for summer! However, the noise isn't as loud in park.

ancdmd

Well this thread can be closed out, after all this time I've finally found the source of this insanity-inducing noise. The driveshaft adjusting nut was loose. This is a large nut that secures the splined connection between the front half and rear half of the two-piece driveshaft. It can slowly loosen over time and allow the male splined end of the rear/intermediate shaft to rattle inside the split female splined end of the front shaft. The nut can be loose but appear to be fine even if you can't turn it by hand. Good news is that it's a quick cheap fix. Bad news is IT'S THE MOST DIFFICULT DAMN PROBLEM ON A VEHICLE THAT I'VE EVER HAD TO DIAGNOSE! I need a drink.