LS - 3rd Gen (2001-2006) Discussion topics related to the flagship Lexus LS430

04-06 Sealed Transmission fluid change interval? (The Mother thread)

Old 03-22-08, 08:48 AM
  #16  
CG lover
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great post Teamplayer,,

thank you,,
Old 03-23-08, 11:40 PM
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BNR34
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Originally Posted by teamplayer
Yes, but for other reasons. LOL.

No problem fellers. Anything I can help with.
We sure appreciate it
Old 03-31-08, 01:29 PM
  #18  
BNR34
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Hi teamplayer,

Today I finally talked to someone from a dealer's service department that actually knows what he is talking about, and what he said completely agree with what you posted.

Thanks again
Old 03-31-08, 06:09 PM
  #19  
joe42276
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I did the drain/fill on my dad's LX470.. it uses the same WS fluid. I did it at 100k miles, and looks like it needed it. Shifting got much smoother, as well as shifting into D... P... and R..etc. I also dropped the ATF pan and replaced the filter unit (strainer). After doing all this, I plan to drain and fill again at 50k intervals (without changing filter). This way the fluid stays clean for sure.

The fill procedure was the same as mentioned above... using a fill hole and an overflow hole. Not too bad. (the LX doesn't have to be lifted to go under... and for our LS430, I use Rhino ramps to go under and service fluids).
Old 04-03-08, 12:52 PM
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Due to the very tedious filling procedure, I ended up letting one of my local Lexus dealer replacing the transmission fluid on my car for me. I like to share my experience and what I found out with you guys.

GRAND_LS 4, yes I still would never know if they actually change the fluid or not, but my service consultant was extremely knowledgeable, he told me they have done this fluid many times before, actually he done it himself since he used to be a tech. They are very willing and have no problem doing this service, it is a common job that they do. So I feel safe on trusting them on this job.

Everything teamplayer said was 100% correct, that guru I talked to at dealer service is 100% wrong, so I went to a different dealer.

This 04'+ 6-speeds tranny are not sealed, (quoting teamplayer) the fill plug is on the left (drivers) side of the trans, there is a plate held on with 2 bolts, removed that plates to access the refill hole/plug.

The recommended change interval on this WS fluid is 100k miles, I just did mine at 50k and will change it every 50k. According to joe42276, the WS fluid don't look so good at 100k miles, it is probably ok if you just want to keep the car for 150k~200k miles. I want this tranny to last 500k
Old 10-14-08, 10:06 PM
  #21  
AlexusAnja
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Default Where is the fill stick?

I just got an '04 and was looking into where the heck the transmission fluid stick was... this answered it. There is NONE !

So, say we spring a leak and fluid is running low low low... is there a light to indicate low transmission fluid, or we just wait until it slips and knocks or something?

"Remove the transmission to fill"... what a load of horse poop. Some times I wonder how these stealerships stay in business.

Thanks all.
Old 10-15-08, 06:20 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by teamplayer
The following bellowis the procedure I copied from the service manual:

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID
ADJUSTMENT
1. BEFORE TRANSMISSION FILL
_ This transmission requires Toyota Genuine ATF WS.
_ It is necessary to refill the transmission with the correct
amount of fluid.
_ The vehicle must remain level while adjusting fluid level.
2. TRANSMISSION PAN FILL
(a) Remove the two bolts and transmission case cover.
(b) Remove the refill plug and overflow plug.
(c) Fill the transmission through the refill hole until fluid begins
to trickle out of the overflow tube.
(d) Reinstall the overflow plug.
3. TRANSMISSION FILL
(a) Fill the transmission with the correct amount of fluid as
listed in the table below.
(b) Reinstall the refill plug to avoid fluid splash.
Performed Repair Fill Amount
Transmission pan and drain plug removal
1.3 liters (1.37 US qts, 1.14 Imp. qts)
Transmission valve body removal 3.9 liters (4.12 US qts, 3.43 Imp. qts)
Torque converter removal 5.3 liters (5.60 US qts, 4.66 Imp. qts)
Entire transmission assembly 5.3 liters (5.60 US qts, 4.66 Imp. qts)
HINT:
If you cannot add the listed amount of fluid, do the following:
(1) Install the refill plug.
(2) Allow the engine to idle with air conditioning OFF.
(3) Move the shift lever through entire gear range to circulate
fluid.
(4) Wait for 30 seconds with the engine idling.
(5) Stop the engine.
(6) Remove the refill plug and add fluid.
(7) Reinstall the refill plug.
4. FLUID CIRCULATION
(a) Allow the engine to idle with the air conditioning OFF.
(b) Move the shift lever through entire gear range to circulate
the fluid.
5. FLUID TEMPERATURE CHECK
NOTICE:
_ On vehicles equipped with air suspension, perform
step (c) if it necessary to jack up the vehicle while the
engine running.
_ The fluid temperature should be less than 30_C (86_F)
before beginning the fluid temperature check.
(a) With hand-held tester
(1) Connect the hand-held tester to the DLC3.
(2) Select the tester menus: OBD/MOBD, ENGINE,
DATA LIST and A/T.
(3) Check A/T OIL TEMP.
(4) Allow the engine to idle until the fluid temperature
reaches 46_C (115_F).
(b) Without hand-held tester (Using D shift indicator)
(1) Connect terminals between CG (4) and TC (13) of
the DLC3 using SST (09843-18040).
(2) Move the shift lever back and forth between N and
D every 1.5 seconds for six seconds.
(3) The D shift indicator on the combination meter
comes on for two seconds. This indicates that the
fluid temperature check mode has been started.
(4) The D shift indicator will come on again when the
fluid temperature reaches 46_C (115_F) and will
blink when it exceeds 56_C (130_F).
(5) Allow the engine to idle unit the fluid temperature
reaches 46_C (115_F).
(c) For vehicles with air suspension (Using D shift indicator)
(1) Connect terminals between CG (4), OPA (11) and
TC (13) of the DLC3 using SST (09843-18040).
Terminal OPA is connected to prevent air suspension
height adjustment from occurring when the vehicle
is lifted off the ground with the engine running.
(2) Move the shift lever back and forth between N and
D at 1.5 seconds interval for six seconds.
(3) The D shift indicator on the combination meter
comes on for two seconds. This indicates that the
fluid temperature check mode has been started.
(4) The D shift indicator comes on again when the fluid
temperature reaches 46_C (115_F) and will blink
when it exceeds 56_C (130_F).
(5) Allow the engine to idle until the fluid temperature
reaches 46_C (115_F).
6. FLUID LEVEL CHECK
NOTICE:
The fluid temperature must be between 46_C (115_F) and
56_C (130_F) to accurately check the fluid level.
(a) Remove the overflow plug with the engine idling.
(b) Check that the fluid comes out of the overflow tube.
_ If fluid does not come out, proceed to step 7
_ If fluid comes out, wait until the over-flow slows to
a trickle and proceed to step 8.
7. TRANSMISSION REFILL
(a) Install the overflow plug.
(b) Stop the engine.
(c) Remove the refill plug.
(d) Add 0.4 liters (0.42 US qts, 0.35 Imp. qts) of fluid.(e) Allow the engine to idle and wait for 10 seconds.
(f) Proceed to step 6.
8. COMPLETE
(a) Install the overflow plug with a new gasket.
(b) Stop the engine.
(c) Install the refill plug with a new gasket.
(d) Install the transmission case cover with the two bolts.
Torque:
20 Nm (205 kgfcm, 15 ftlbf) for overflow plug
39 Nm (400 kgfcm, 29 ftlbf) for refill plug
So you need 6.02 quarts of transmission fluid to do the entire job?
Old 04-04-10, 09:06 PM
  #23  
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Default Sealed Transmission Fluid: Change? (The Mother thread)

I have seen other threads which detail methods of changing the sealed transmission's fluid if I find out I need to change it at some point. I'm just looking for an update on opinions and insight into whether people have decided it should be changed and are doing it, or are content to accept that it "doesn't need changing" according to service schedule. Thanks in advance

Last edited by RA40; 06-13-13 at 09:55 PM. Reason: Prep for FAQ
Old 04-04-10, 09:15 PM
  #24  
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Steve, I just had mine changed. I have 59k on the odometer. I am taking a cross country trip in 2 weeks (and everyone is sick of me posting that)..lol.

Even knowing that I was taking this trip, the Lexus tech told me not to worry about it, and just change it at 100k. I insisted it be changed. They changed it, and he commented that it was "dirtier than what he expected."
Old 04-05-10, 07:56 AM
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How much was the service?
Old 04-05-10, 08:20 AM
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I just had mine changed ('04 LS430) a few weeks ago at 61K for the 60K service after considerable research (on this site) and debate with my mechanic. I bought the car used with no history at 50K miles last year. Didn't worry about it too much since it ran great. I did a couple of oil changes over the past year; one at the dealer who didn't check anything else so I didn't go back. An independent mechanic, LBR Automotive in Bellevue, WA, had been working on our '00 RX300 for a few years so I took it to them. They said they were very comfortable with the sealed transmission service, and recommended it. 60K service was $418 (before taxes) including oil change and filter, the transmission drain, air filter, and brake fluid change (I had changed the glovebox A/C filter myself recently) and four qts of Toyota WS fluid (p/n 00289 ATFWS) at $14.25/qt. They also noted that all four corners needed new pads, down to 1 mm, original pads I believe. so worn down that both the wear sensor seals were worn off and getting ready to send off the warning. Just needed all new pads and resurfacing of rotors and had the serpentine belt replaced, as well as complete alignment. Total tab incl tax was $1455. So far, runs fine (it ran great before the service, too).
Old 04-05-10, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by karasdad
... Total tab incl tax was $1455. So far, runs fine (it ran great before the service, too).
Isn't that an interesting point of view many of us have? We have a car that is running fine, drop nearly $1,500 for dealer preventative maintenance, get the car back running the same as when we dropped it off, and we're happy about it.
Old 04-05-10, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by caddyowner
Isn't that an interesting point of view many of us have? We have a car that is running fine, drop nearly $1,500 for dealer preventative maintenance, get the car back running the same as when we dropped it off, and we're happy about it.
Now, don't get me wrong.... If the money isn't an issue and you have no interest in doing it yourself... I completely understand and respect you. Most people have a lot of other things they would like to do than work on cars....that's cool....but....

I drive a lot for work.... to the tune of almost 40,000 miles per year. I've been doing this for over 15 years now.... I've put 500,000 miles on 3 vehicles... a Chrysler minivan and two Honda Pilots and I have done ALL of the maintenance on these vehicles myself. I purchased each of these vehicles new and drove them well over 150,000 miles (current 2008 Honda Pilot has 80,000 miles) before selling.....still in perfect operating condition....

I stopped going to the stealerships long ago. I get reimbursed for mileage so if I do the maintenance myself on Saturday, it is money in my pocket. I do the recommended maintenance by the schedule as necessary...nothing more...nothing less. In 15 years I have NEVER been stranded by the side of the road. I keep my vehicles clean and in perfect running order. And I NEVER go cheap on tires!!!!

I inspect and replace things when they need replacing (brakes etc..), but I don't go out of my way to find things. I believe in "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." but when I fix something I do it right. What has shocked me is how LITTLE maintenance is really required to keep a modern vehicle running in top condition. 15k, 30k, 45k, 60k, 75k, 90k services are a joke....There's nothing to them! Look at this, inspect that.... change the oil... It's ridiculous. The stealerships are raking in the cash. The only challenging services are the timing belts, but even those I have been able to do in a Saturday...

My wife drives our Lexus so it only has 48,000 miles. I expect it to last a long, long, long time and I will not make a stealer richer by bringing it in for expensive car washes.

My only suggestion.....don't feel that you have to do EVERY little thing the dealer recommends and you certainly shouldn't have to do MORE! All those fluffy maintenance items they recommend, rarely if ever save you from problems down the road.
Old 04-05-10, 10:14 AM
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You have a very good point about dealer recommended maintenance items that exceed what the manufacturer stipulates in the owners manual.
Old 04-08-10, 03:43 PM
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Thanks for the advice guys. I think on my 90K service down the road I might do it or wait till 100 or just over. It's just always concerned me because I like the idea of fresh fluids. Enjoy your trip DE!

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