C8V6C

Hey guys, I am going to start my aftermarket subwoofer and amp install on my day off.

I already had mostly everything from my other car, and since I have done the install on all my other cars myself, I feel pretty confident about it. I still have a few model specific questions to ask if you guys don't mind.

1) Any tips/tricks with running the power wire, from battery to rear? Looks like it is straightforward, and I have been reading the DIY for the electric rear seat removal. Anything I might get stuck on?

2) I figure I will have to remove the stock sub to vent air to the cabin. Since I am taking out the rear seats for the most part, it shouldn't be that much more work to remove the shelf and stock speaker right?

3) I use a fairly basic hi/lo converter to run RCA cables to my amp. Presuming I am using the stock wires going into the stock sub, which wire is which? I have been trying to find a writeup for wire colors with no luck.

4) And lastly, need the 12v wire for amp turn on and off. I know one member said to check the voltage to find the wire, and I do know how to do that, but if anyone has a tested and proven wire, it could save me a few minutes of guess work



Thanks for all your help!

daddykay24

For the power wire, there is a rubber groment on the fire wall behind the battery. You can snake your power line through there. And you will have to remove the stock sub to vent air because its totally sealed back there.

C8V6C

Thanks, any idea on the wire colors and taps?

daddykay24

If you are going to use a hi/lo convertor, you can tap any speaker line to get a signal including the sub woofer wire.

eggtart

check you amp specs. most amps these days have auto-sensing turn on. That is, they turn on automatically when voltage is sensed in the RCA's

C8V6C

I have a JL 500/1 and I do believe it has auto-on, but I read somewhere that you should always wire up 12v just to be safe for consistent power on.

Since I am not familiar with auto/on/offs, I always wired up the 12v. Old fashioned?

daddykay24

The JL 500 is auto on so you dont need the extra wire.

C8V6C

And just to confirm, you guys tap into the wires BEFORE the factory amp (between head unit - amp), not after right? (amp - factory sub)

Wish I knew the colors of the wires or could find a wiring diagram to wire up speaker left/right positive and negative for the hi/lo converter...will it make sense when I am in there?

kenshimoto

there should be a post about the wires color, romanTPA on here did a full how to ls430 mark levinson with everything with pics has a diagram of the wires i think. what kinda sub are you running if u dont mind me asking

C8V6C

2 JL 12W3s.....hits nice, but if the LS trunk is as quiet as i think it will be, i might have to upgrade to 2 JL 12W6 and a 1000/1

SQuester

Have you thought about a fourth order box for the subs? Minimal trunk rattle as it's ported through the rear deck, and the trunk won't be pressurized. Plus, no worries about anything in the trunk coming into contact with the subs.

IMHO it's the only way to go with an LS and other cars with tightly sealed trunks.

C8V6C

Its a good idea, i guess we will see how it goes.

I still am not sure which wire is which for my hi/lo converter...i will keep looking, or just pay someone to wire ot up lol

kenshimoto

my w7 makes my whole rear rattle like crazy...but it quiet down a bit with full sound damping, only 50mill tho but i got 80mill on the way.

glentamur

iTrader: (1)

What do u mean by "fourth order box"?

Is that a style of box? Please explain.
I am planning on doing this install and will do anything to avoid trunk rattle!!

Thanks

REV-01

iTrader: (13)

by reading your questions. the only thing you are confident is your ground wire. I would suggest have a professional to do it.