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LS430 Oxygen O2 Sensor Location and Part Numbers

 
Old 12-06-18, 06:00 AM
  #61  
jonathanz
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based all the info on this forums replaced all four sensors on my 2004 LS430. thank you
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Old 12-06-18, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jonathanz View Post
based all the info on this forums replaced all four sensors on my 2004 LS430. thank you
Is the drivers side as difficult as some say? I have to do mine tomorrow. First check engine light this car has thrown in the time I've owned it
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Old 12-07-18, 05:31 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Peacebay View Post
Is the drivers side as difficult as some say? I have to do mine tomorrow. First check engine light this car has thrown in the time I've owned it
yes, to reach inside carpet is hard, if you have small hand is easier but is do-able, just take your time.
my suggestion is remove BOTH front wheels for two upper sensors, more room for you.
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Old 12-07-18, 07:48 AM
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Maybe I just got lucky but I just finished up both front o2 sensors in about an hour. Prying the heat shield a bit away from the connector was all I needed to get a pick in there.

Bu comparison the front o2 sensors of my rusty ranger were a thousand times more difficult. If you have a clean LS and the sensors arenít seized in the manifold, Iíd put this at about a 4 out of 10 on the difficulty scale.
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Old 04-24-19, 06:59 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by BigBird63 View Post
P.S. I cleared codes and ran for a bit, before all the incompletes cleared and I could go pass my MD emissions test, I picked up a P0430 code - Cat Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2. I guess in the 6 months or so I've been driving around with the bad sensor before finally getting around to fixing it, the exhaust finally gave up. I'm at the muffler shop now and sure enough there a hole in the y-pipe under the heat shields. It all syncs up -- the new code, the increase in exhaust sound I noticed a few months back, the good info on that code I found in another thread here, the Kavanaugh hearings, etc.
I used this thread to replace bank2,sensor 1 on my 98 LS400.Reset codes.Cruised down mountain,cruised in town,slow light driving, and sure enough,up pops p0420.Hmmm,did i confuse the computer?

Reset codes and hopped on freeway doing 60-65 for about ten minutes,then drove hard up the mountain to get home.Figured after sensor was replaced I needed to heat things up? Got home....Cat monitor set itself as complete! YAY! Apparently per the internet a 10 minute drive at 60-65 is a generic way to set the cat monitor (wow,pegged that one!) after a p0420 reset if car is OK.Go figure!

So now i have 6 of 7 codes complete,and system evac inc.In Calif a 1996-1999 can have 1 incomplete readiness code,and 2000 and later can have system evac incomplete only and pass smog.Im heading in tomorrow to get that smog check.

BTW,for me this was a 2/10 scale of a job.Hardest part was getting floor jack and a safety stand out of garage.My sensor unclipping was a breeze with a tiny screwdriver and my 7/8 closed end wrench fit over the connector and slid down wires right to sensor.Came out with just normal wrench force.I have a clean no rust car so damn did I get lucky all around.

Great detailed thread,after reading it all I was ready and it went smooth as silk!

Last edited by spuds; 04-24-19 at 07:16 PM.
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Old 04-24-19, 09:52 PM
  #66  
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Default Very satisfying once completed, but it can be a rough journey...

I had to recently replace my Bank1 Sensor1, or, as I now call it, the Anti-Christ.
Thanks to all those that contributed to this thread. Here are my additional comments on the job, now that itís done.

I had trouble throwing enough light on the subject. Thereís not enough room for a conventional drop light, and I didnít have a third hand to hold a flashlight.
One of those small flexible-neck LED lights would have come in handy.
Here are the tools I used/fabricated:



I used the crowbar to bend the heat shield.
Coat hanger wire is too thin for this job, but thicker wire rods work fine (I used thick wire salvaged from an old tomato cage).
The straight rod was used to pull out the plug, rather than use pliers to pull it out Ė I didnít think there was enough room for pliers.
Using the extra-long drill bit, I drilled a hole in the old plug, then inserted the rod into the hole.
That allowed me to pull out the plug once the tab releases.
I never heard a ďclickĒ, as others have reported, so you might not want to wait for that click to pull on the plug as you try to push down on the tab.

As for removing the old sensor, I lucked out and didnít need much torque to remove it (14 year-old car, but only 61K California miles).
But the conventional slotted socket didnít do it for me- it extended out so far, that once I attached a ratchet I couldnít find any clearance to rotate it.
Fortunately, it's easy to remove that small black plastic shield/splash panel between the sensor and the wheel/tire.
That allowed me to use the crowís foot-style socket for both removing and installing.
I can see how removing the whole wheel might help, especially if the sensor is frozen, but I didnít have that option since my car was on ramps.

Now for something some of you might not agree with Ė I didnít push the new plug all the way into the socket.
If the replacement O2 sensor happens to be DOA (which you wonít know initially), the plug will be easier to remove later on if you donít click it in.
In fact, the VSC and check engine lights went off after about 10 miles of driving, so I know itís connected and working.

I might just leave it that way and see what happens.
It felt pretty snug going almost all the way in, so it might stay like that indefinitely, which would make the next replacement, if ever needed, much easier.
But if it somehow works its way loose, Iíll know that because the warning lights will come back on.
If it does, Iíll just click it back in, so, nothing really lost by trying this.
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Old 04-24-19, 10:05 PM
  #67  
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Sounds like 430 is a lot tougher than 400,i didnt have any clearance issues.But the general instructions here transferred very well to tackle the 400.I thank you all.
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