Johnhav430

Pretty straightforward, I found the #1 cyl to be a PITA, and the #8, and the #2 just a little.

The worst is undoing the electrical from the coil packs. If one looks closely, by pinching, one is trying to lift the opposite end off so it can clear a tab. Take a close look with one undone, it's basically flexing more than lifting. I tried to be extra careful and there was one, the #3, that didn't appear as if it was going to come off. Imagine, that's the hardest part of the job? lol

The next oddity was what came out were NGKs. I think a previous owner has already done the plugs, so likely my effort was a waste of time haha If my fuel economy went down (I doubt it) that would be an Alanis Morissette.

Got me thinking, does anyone have tons of extension sizes down to 1/2" gradiations? 3 sizes don't really fit all.... I found it best to stack 2 short ones, and I always use a locking extension so as to not lose the socket, but there were some cases where it was too long, and one a bit short.

My plug socket is an SK with a flexible joint, yet I always dreamed of a Snap On, but the SK is ok. It's a bit cheaply made for made in USA, but it worked. I rather have a u-joint than the ones people have recommended on amazon where it's a ball or something.

Fired her up and as expected no difference, but at least I know it's done.

Romanova

You really need to use needle nose pliers on the COP plugs, easiest way to get them off without the risk of damage. I don't remember any issues when I did mine, driver's side is a bit more challenging. I do have a full set of Snap On 3/8' extensions and that came in handy. Best way to buy Snap On is one at a time. I have SO sockets, extensions, ratchets, screw drivers, pliers, and a few other things.

Johnhav430

What I was thinking would be helpful is if an extension adjusted in 1/2" or less increments, then a person would be set! Or, maybe that's where specialized tools come in.

On the electrical connection, #1's electrical tape literally disintegrated upon touch, that's how brittle it was.

The issue with the connectors I would describe like this. Say you were on a seesaw. When you sat down, instead of the other side going up in the air, it stayed put, and you went down because the seesaw flexed. That's how I envision it. I think with pliers it could be you simply don't feel the resistance that one does with fingers, and, you've squeezed it a lot harder so even with the flex you are clearing the tab. That's my guess. But still I'd be afraid of breaking the plastic tab. I don't like the design but maybe they thought in the life of the car it may get 1, maybe 2 plug changes, so it's good enough.

Here's the #1 with the dipstick issue (that can be worked around). Wasn't it here that someone said they suspect dealers might skip 1/8 of the cyl because nobody will ever know? That's enough for me to DIY, not a bad job....perfect time to do the air filter too as it was about 23 mos old yes, WIX

my Snap On tools are mostly from pawn shops and eBay. where on eBay I suspect students buy tools with their discount, then flip it to resellers. The times I have gotten stuff it seemed other bidders fell asleep, not sure. Always liked how Snap On has a date code. I have nothing newer than 2017 or 2018. Some to the 1960's.

TominPT

I just did my plugs too and I also found that a pair of 3 inch extensions were all that was needed to get the plugs in and out.
The trick of using a 5/8 inch heater hose to install the new plugs in the well and hand tighten them (from the big plug change post) was pure gold.

Hklexus

Does the connector have to come off or can the whole coil pack with the connector still connected be flipped up and out of the way?

Johnhav430

Pretty sure that without removing the connector, there is not enough slack to get the coil packs out.

I saw an excellent youtube on the starter replacement, and the tech used a pick to undo some of the connections (may have been fuel injectors). That makes sense as he would be now lifting the plastic over the tab.

(p.s. I doubt I would attempt the starter--one big reason is if the replacement part is faulty [happened 3x with my Nissan but that one is easy]. The other is the number of things to undo incl. the fuel line. Although I hear the starter job is big money...)

Kansas

Finally did plugs at 118.5K? The normal replacement interval is 120K and that is only because it's, to quote your maintenance booklet, "Required under the terms of the Emission Control Warranty". My factory installed spark plugs still looked like new when they were replaced at 120K miles. There was no performance or fuel usage change after the new plugs.

Johnhav430

So are you saying I should have waited? Just was convenient yesterday, boy and mom went to see Toy Story 4

but it does seem for whatever reason a previous owner already did them. And the plugs that came out stopped being made in 2012, and they only had the car 37k, so who knows. Maybe a shop in FLA rooked them.

Kansas

I said what I did only to make clear that spark plug change interval is 120K miles for your car and that my original factory installed plugs in my LS were like new when I had them changed for the first time at the specified 120K interval.. I always follow the maintenance schedule even when it seems silly to change components that are obviously still in excellent condition.

I've seen many people change spark plugs very early thinking they needed to and then being surprised that their old plugs weren't at all worn. Doing unnecessary maintenance is to me like flushing money down the toilet.

It's unfortunate that newer Toyota/Lexus with direction injection require much more frequent spark plug changes - at least that's what the maintenance schedule says. It's every 40,000 miles for the LS500 and every 60,000 miles for the "regular" direct injection V6 in vehicles like the ES350. It will be interesting to see what the condition of the original spark plugs in a direct injection engine are in when they are changed but I don't know anybody who has put that many miles yet on a Toyota/Lexus direct injected engine.

I can't begin to count the number of times I've had to pull out the maintenance schedule to show service writers who were trying to up-sell unnecessary services to me. I once had a Lexus dealership service writer tell me that I was going to kill someone if I didn't have my brake pads replaced "right now" - that's Hendrick Lexus of Kansas City. I had just measured the pads and the service writer didn't even know what mine measured or what the minimum thickness specification was. Service writers can be under a lot of pressure to generate revenue.

ls430w140

Kansas, sorry for off-topic question, but how often would you recommend to change lifetime transmission oil in LS430?

Johnhav430

I did 3 drain/fills around 86k (spread out) as indie said 100% safe. I didn't realize how much it cost because the fluid is 2.5 qts aka 3 on top of the $80, for some reason $80 was in my mind. This should have left 19% old. I just did #4 at 118k, and the tech showed me the fluid was black. But you put it on a paper towel and you can see reddish. My hunch is this might not be necessary, but I would think ~ 100k makes sense, so cut that a little short to ensure when old fluid left behind it's still good. 1 drain/fill leaves like 55% old, and 3 seems to be the conventional wisdom. My #4 was 2.5 years after #3.

I am hesitant to DIY, but I DIY my wife's GM which has a dipstick. Started hers at 73k and did 2, and stopped since fluid was bright pink. Hers is Dexron VI synth and cheaper than Toyota WS. my .02

Kansas

This is your call. Personally, I follow or sometimes even exceed the maintenance recommendations for Special Operating Conditions (aka severe service conditions) when it comes to engine, transmission and differential fluids.

I do this for a number of reasons:

* These three components are the most expensive mechanical components in a vehicle to replace if they fail.
* We drive most vehicles from new to high mileages - a number to 180K to 225K miles.
* Almost all our vehicles eventually go to relatives or friends - I want them to have a trouble-free low cost experience.
* We tow with some of our vehicles although not heavy towing. Even our Prius has a trailer hitch.
* Some of our vehicles are rarely driven. One is currently averaging 2K to 3K per year.

I've retired from doing vehicle maintenance although I occasionally do vehicle projects that are mostly about improving safety.

Romanova

No feeling needed. Squeeze and full, all 8 came out easily and no chance of unseating the wires by doing it this way. Just need the right needle nose pliers (Snap On).

Legender

Confirming needle nose are the way to go for removing the wires from the coil pack. And if you don't have the heater hose you can actually use the coil pack itself to re-install the plug. I use an old tube from a Honda coil pack where I cut the coil pack off and just use the tube. Works great for me.
Congrats on doing the plugs. While it may not drive/perform better, at least you know what you've got under the hood.

Johnhav430

Thanks I agree with the pliers suggestions. For some reason I wanted to touch them, as if I know at what point they might break from being yanked or squeezed. You guys are basically saying from experience, no need, just grab with pliers (of course common sense prevails squeeze by feel to a reasonable point). There's a difference between what we want (touch by hand), and what actually works best from experience (use pliers they work fine no problems).

I will admit this--those who do it a lot have zero need for a torque wrench. I still used one. I actually got it in place for all 8. I tried to do it with just a 3/8" ratchet and honestly, could not feel at what point to stop lol

(I have the CDI 5-75 3/8" so technically accurate at 15 ft. lbs.)

I never use anti seize on modern plugs, so take them all the way in to their seats, by hand. We had a long thread on another forum, where a person stripped all 6 cyls., and insisted it was the torque wrenches fault. Because of all the backlash, he had it calibrated, and his wrench was accurate. I'm thinking if I were to ever see anti seize on a plug I pulled out, all bets are off, be very careful and do the next ones by hand only...but I digress