Super Hot Front Wheels
5 out of 10 times (after driving for just few miles - no excessive braking) both front wheels become excessively hot (rears are just warm to the touch). I've never used a thermometer, but it gets really hot that I can not touch it with the palm of my hand for no more than a split second without burning myself. Yes, I've taken it to the Lexus dealer (twice) and even had the repair manager touch the hot front wheels when I arrived at the dealer.
After inspections (twice) the dealer claims that there's nothing wrong with it. But stated that my front brake pads have only 30% left on it so it needs replacement soon - the car has only 26,000 miles.
It appears that I am riding on my brakes (I don't use left foot to apply brakes). Is there trick to retract the piston to prevent this problem.
2nd and 3rd questions. Is the OEM brake pads made by Akebono? What is the pros and cons of changing to EBG Red Stuff or Hawk brand? Is there an advantage of changing the brake oil to DOT 4? (street driving only).
After inspections (twice) the dealer claims that there's nothing wrong with it. But stated that my front brake pads have only 30% left on it so it needs replacement soon - the car has only 26,000 miles.
It appears that I am riding on my brakes (I don't use left foot to apply brakes). Is there trick to retract the piston to prevent this problem.
2nd and 3rd questions. Is the OEM brake pads made by Akebono? What is the pros and cons of changing to EBG Red Stuff or Hawk brand? Is there an advantage of changing the brake oil to DOT 4? (street driving only).
I would suggest find out what the issue is before you go for answer for you question 2 and 3. Are you using stock wheels or aftermarket as I ask this because it may be a rubbing issue causing friction? Are the "hotness" the same on both side of the front wheels? And if you can get your hands on one of these infrared thermometer, you can see how hot it is at a pull of the trigger. (those go for around $50 - $70 depending on brand and very useful all around).
Once you figure it out the heat issue, then go on to discussing the brake pads and what else.
Once you figure it out the heat issue, then go on to discussing the brake pads and what else.
5 out of 10 times (after driving for just few miles - no excessive braking) both front wheels become excessively hot (rears are just warm to the touch). I've never used a thermometer, but it gets really hot that I can not touch it with the palm of my hand for no more than a split second without burning myself. Yes, I've taken it to the Lexus dealer (twice) and even had the repair manager touch the hot front wheels when I arrived at the dealer.
After inspections (twice) the dealer claims that there's nothing wrong with it. But stated that my front brake pads have only 30% left on it so it needs replacement soon - the car has only 26,000 miles.
It appears that I am riding on my brakes (I don't use left foot to apply brakes). Is there trick to retract the piston to prevent this problem.
2nd and 3rd questions. Is the OEM brake pads made by Akebono? What is the pros and cons of changing to EBG Red Stuff or Hawk brand? Is there an advantage of changing the brake oil to DOT 4? (street driving only).
After inspections (twice) the dealer claims that there's nothing wrong with it. But stated that my front brake pads have only 30% left on it so it needs replacement soon - the car has only 26,000 miles.
It appears that I am riding on my brakes (I don't use left foot to apply brakes). Is there trick to retract the piston to prevent this problem.
2nd and 3rd questions. Is the OEM brake pads made by Akebono? What is the pros and cons of changing to EBG Red Stuff or Hawk brand? Is there an advantage of changing the brake oil to DOT 4? (street driving only).
For your 2nd and 3rd. Some are akebono and some arent.
The pros of changing to EBC or Hawk is better modulation and deceleration depending on which compound you chose. The cons are that they eat rotors for breakfast.
And you wont notice a single difference with Dot 4. The boiling points are different and would make a difference if you were consistanly braking heavy, repeatatly.
First Are the rims hot, or the tires ? I ask because some people refer to them differently.
For your 2nd and 3rd. Some are akebono and some arent.
The pros of changing to EBC or Hawk is better modulation and deceleration depending on which compound you chose. The cons are that they eat rotors for breakfast.
And you wont notice a single difference with Dot 4. The boiling points are different and would make a difference if you were consistanly braking heavy, repeatatly.
For your 2nd and 3rd. Some are akebono and some arent.
The pros of changing to EBC or Hawk is better modulation and deceleration depending on which compound you chose. The cons are that they eat rotors for breakfast.
And you wont notice a single difference with Dot 4. The boiling points are different and would make a difference if you were consistanly braking heavy, repeatatly.
Yes it's the rims (18" OEM Chromed rims). Only the front (R & L) gets equally hot from time to time. That's where I can't figure out - it doesn't happen all the time. Thanks for your tip on EBC & Hawk - if it eats up the rotors, I guess I'll stick to Akebono Ceramics and stay with DOT3.
Wheels do have a tendancy to build up some heat.
My wheels dont get all that hot by on my wifes car they definatly get pretty warm.
Yes, nothing is rubbing against it with no funny or serious smells - the only possible location that can cause heat from friction are the brake shoes. I need to investigate how I can retract the piston so the shoes won't rub against the rotor. Condition of the rotors and shoes seems to be okay, so I don't anticipate any complications but needing new pads at 26,000 miles seems excessive. My 1991 LS400 (purchased new) got over 60k and my wife's RX300 is over 60k on its original pads.
Yes, nothing is rubbing against it with no funny or serious smells - the only possible location that can cause heat from friction are the brake shoes. I need to investigate how I can retract the piston so the shoes won't rub against the rotor. Condition of the rotors and shoes seems to be okay, so I don't anticipate any complications but needing new pads at 26,000 miles seems excessive. My 1991 LS400 (purchased new) got over 60k and my wife's RX300 is over 60k on its original pads.
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Your car has disc brakes so they are reffered to as pads. Shoes are for drum brakes. With disc brake cars, the pistons automaticaly adjust. No need to retract them unless your replacing pads, because they will just go right back to where they need to be the first time you press the brakes. Did you put on the 26k yourself or did you buy the car used ? I could wear out a set of stock pads in under 10k if I wanted to. It depends on how you drive the car. My wifes first car, a nissan sentra had 98k before we put brakes on it.
It's the pads - I guess wasn't thinking and my fingers typed in shoes. Yes, I bought this car used w/25k on it - was hard to pass on it. Therefore, depending upon how the previous owner drove the car brakes can wear at any mileage. But what I can gather from the appearance of the car, it was not driven hard - unless it was driven with a foot on the brake pedal - although only the oil Barrons can now afford to do that to reduce GPM.
Got any pictures of the car ? are there any small pit marks in the rims. Its getting harder and harder to spot potential problems with used cars, as the stealerships are getting smarter at ways of hiding them. Not that its the case here.
Pit marks on the rim? Inside or outside? I never closely examined the inner rim - seemed nothing was out of ordinary (I looked at it when I got my tires changed couple days ago). Now outside is Chome with no pits.
I purchased the car from combined Mercedes/Infinity dealer - so I find it difficult to belive they will cast any voodoos especially when it's still under full Lexus Warranty.
I purchased the car from combined Mercedes/Infinity dealer - so I find it difficult to belive they will cast any voodoos especially when it's still under full Lexus Warranty.
Pit marks on the rim? Inside or outside? I never closely examined the inner rim - seemed nothing was out of ordinary (I looked at it when I got my tires changed couple days ago). Now outside is Chome with no pits.
I purchased the car from combined Mercedes/Infinity dealer - so I find it difficult to belive they will cast any voodoos especially when it's still under full Lexus Warranty.
I purchased the car from combined Mercedes/Infinity dealer - so I find it difficult to belive they will cast any voodoos especially when it's still under full Lexus Warranty.
I dont suspect any voodoo with your car. Bare with me im just on my soap box. Im just jaded from working at stealerships when I was younger.
To get top dollar from used cars new tires and brakes on, oil change and that eleviates some of the tell tale signs of how a car was taken care of. The engine compartments are sterilized with goo to eliminate signs of leaks.
Ok im done
It's the pads - I guess wasn't thinking and my fingers typed in shoes. Yes, I bought this car used w/25k on it - was hard to pass on it. Therefore, depending upon how the previous owner drove the car brakes can wear at any mileage. But what I can gather from the appearance of the car, it was not driven hard - unless it was driven with a foot on the brake pedal - although only the oil Barrons can now afford to do that to reduce GPM.







