sr20mofo

iTrader: (10)

anyone got a picture of which wires/colors to splice from the stock ML amp of an 04? for instance... remote, power, ground, and sub wires.

have these been verified to be the correct wires to tap for an aftermarket sub? the asterisk is still there and havent been updated yet.

*Left Rear Subwoofer Speaker Wire (+): Black/white
*Left Rear Subwoofer Speaker Wire (-): Yellow/Red
*Right Rear Subwoofer Speaker Wire (+): Red/White
*Right Rear Subwoofer Speaker Wire (-): White/Blue

StanVanDam

Excellent description. And just to elaborate since there is still some confusion on this topic:

"To measure the TRUE impedance of a speaker or cabinet requires a rather complex procedure involving signal generators, power amplifiers and high frequency AC voltmeters. However, with raw speakers and many cabinets, the ohmmeter function of a digital multimeter can help you identify what the impedance of the speaker should be. Generally, the reading given by an ohmmeter will be about 2/3 to 3/4 of the impedance of the speaker. So, a 4 ohm speaker will typically measure about 2.5 - 3 ohms, an 8 ohm speaker will typically read about 5-6 ohms, and a 16 ohm speaker will measure around 12 ohms"

The "official" Lexus response saying it is 12 ohms may not be correct - maybe they just got someone to directly measure it with an ohmmeter. Several people have measured the ML sub to be 12 ohms, which means it is actually a 16 ohm sub.

The 3 common ways to get 16 ohms are:
1) 1 x 16ohm coil, ie. factory sub
2) 2 x 8ohm coils in series
3) 4 x 4ohm coils in series

If your sub's true impedance is below 16 ohms (ie. below 12 ohms measured on an ohmmeter), you are running the amp at a higher current than the amp was designed for. The sub might sound better, but the amp may eventually burn out. Amps are often labeled with the minimum ohms you can safely connect.

All of that being said, I think the most effective and cheapest solution is to repair the speaker as cyclehead shows at https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...-levinson.html

My sub surround just recently started to separate from the enclosure (11 years, 7 months in service), so I bought the kit at http://www.simplyspeakers.com/toyota...8m-toyota.html and repaired per their video.

I also soundproofed against vibrations as follows:
1) cut out a foam rim for the sub to sit on, lightly glued to the underside of the sub frame so the foam would stay in place when bolting on
2) drilled out 4 small round furniture leg felt pads and bolted the sub through the felt pads
3) used a generous amount of the speaker repair glue to secure the 4 pegs on the subwoofer cover before reinstalling
4) shimmed the air vents on the rear tray so they hold tighter. Easier to do this before reinstalling the tray
5) added some B-Quiet Ultimate to the metal tray, also behind and under the rear seats

All of that worked perfectly fine and the sub sounds just like new. There is no need to buy a new sub when you can easily repair the old one.

BMW7_LS430

Finally got around removing the ML sub and replacing it with Rockford Fosgate Punch P1 150W 8 ohm sub.

Some lessons learned.

• I wasn't able to pull the back all the way down.
• Sub did not fit well in the original brackets. Metal around edges was hard so I was not able to cut it. I still managed to install it but the sub it about 0.5 inc higher than original and that make putting the grill in impossible.
• As mentioned in prior messages, wear long sleeve shirt. I was wearing one but still got a nick on back of my palm.
• I had repaired the original sub with glue but the paper was now really giving up. Reconing mught still word but replacement is better.

All in all, very happy with the change.

Bocatrip

Unfortunately, unless anything has changed in the last 3 or so years, no outfit wants to recone our subwoofer.

pmiller

Glad to see the thread still going after 8 plus years. It comical to read all the posts. I have a 2010 LS 460 with similar issues on the subwoofer...not enough thump in the trunk. I did the LOC, inline volume control, sub amp, and 10" Polk in a homemade ported enclosure. Sounds a WHOLE lot better. Having the inline volume control is awesome. I can adjust the bass to my personal tastes for each song. Good luck!!!!

mannye

I have an '05 and have actually been following this thread since it started! I recently started wanting to make the stereo better (ML) and thought I would start with the sub. It has been very difficult to find a 16 ohm sub at all, much less one that fits the hole we have. Isn't it bound to screw up the whole system to just throw any old 8 ohm sub in there?

pmiller

Too funny!!!
Yes, installing a mismatched ohm subwoofer will mess things up. It can overload the amp. Possibly causing it to crash requiring a new amp or rebuild. There isn't enough concrete information on the amp to know what it can handle. Maybe it can handle a lower ohm sub. I tried a 12 ohm sub because I was told that is what mine is. The speaker would not fit in the hole without some major modification. That is why I opted for the separate amp and enclosure. Yes, it takes up trunk space. But I still have room for 2 bags of soccer *****, computer bag, and maybe a few more things. Plenty of space for what I need to carry. I just couldn't go on with the lack of bass anymore. Check out my thread on what I did. I'm not sure how to place the link in this post. But, you should be able to search my threads and find it.

BMW7_LS430

Don't put in 4 or 2 ohm sub.
If you can get a dual coil 8 ohm sub and put coils in series that should work too.
If you put in 8 ohm sub then don't jack volume all the way up and you should be fine.
Don't think too much. Just enjoy the car!

Bocatrip

I don't think there is anyone here that can guarantee that if anything other than the OEM subwoofer is used that damage to the factory amp will not occur. Knowing the cost of the amp replacement, the owner takes that risk.

mannye

To be clear, I'm not just interested in changing the sub. I think the entire system needs to be changed because, as I said in another thread, aside from the soundstage for the driver and front passenger (I've never ridden in the back, so I don't know) which is very nicely done, the entire system is disappointing.

I am 47 years old (today is my birthday..yayyyyy) and I listen to all kinds of music, mostly jazz and classical. Sometimes I want to crank it up or do some heavy metal or even dubstep but I can't, because from The Planets by Holst to ::insert popular modern artist here:: to Steely Dan, if I want it loud, I better go home and listen to my home system. The ML system must have been designed to only play at moderate levels, and for old guys that don't have much hearing anymore.

jayclapp

Could it be that it's the younger guys that have blown out their hearing from years of IPods stuck in their ears at damaging levels (or attending too many rock concerts)? Just an old guy wondering.

ssdjoey

Im planning on swapping out my sub since its blown and was reading over this thread and read about using the jl w0,and a buddy was telling me about the kicker sub as well,I was also looking at the pioneer 8in shallow mount sub to any suggestions or opinions,I dont plan on blasting music but im tired of listening to treble since any amount of bass sounds like crap,thanks

Brewmyown

Change the sub and install a sub amp. It's a lot easier than you think. It just takes some time. If you're comfortable with working on cars, it's a fairly easy project. You can get a "decent" sub and amp for about $200. Make sure it's a free air sub. I installed a Kicker 40CWS84 with a Sound Ordnance Amp and it sounds great. Crutchfield has a special including the wiring kit. The sub was $79 and the amp was $109 with an 8 gauge wiring kit. $190 shipped to my door.

dapimpee

After market audio system is not all about how loud it is only , It's also about better sound quality. My aftermarket audio system can play jazz, rock, pops and whatever with much clarity definition than the ML one. and if you enjoy listen to music while driving then you will know exactly what I am talking about.
1 10jl w6 sub, pair of Focal 6.5 components front, pair of 6.5 Focal coaxial rear, 1000rms Memphis amp, 75x4 rms JL amp, Audio Control LC6i....

ssdjoey

this might be a dumb question but if you knew which wires that went into the amp were the power,ground,and remote could you use those wires for an aftermarket amp set up?