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I have been clearing code P0430 several times during the last few days. The message states, "Catalyst System Below Threshold, Bank 2". It also shows VSC. I have been running non-oxy gas for months now, if that might affect this. The weather has been extremely wet with heavy fog and temps hovering above the freezing point for days, if that is a factor. The car runs well, whether the dash warning lights are on or not. I have just filled back up from 1/4 tank to full, with premium unleaded instead of the non-oxy. I'm assuming the "Below threshold" means lean, but I'm not aware of cylinder misfires. I suppose an exhaust leak could have occurred, but I don't hear it.
Most commonly caused by a leak in or near where the Y-pipe joins the primary CATs.
Mine was a crack in the weld where the flange attaches to the Y-pipe.
This lets air into the exhaust so the downstream sensors detect too much oxygen and cause the error.
You won't hear any change in the sound of the exhaust but it's pretty obvious when you have her up on a ramp and idling.
Mine was fixed with a new Y-pipe.
Last edited by BigBoomer; Jan 2, 2025 at 03:00 AM.
I took a long drive yesterday. It was about 170 miles round trip. The code did not appear the entire way. Later I took a short drive, about 4 miles. It did not appear. On the return trip the code came up. The short drive is my daily routine x 2. This does seem to indicate an exhaust leak, since the highway drive would have been at a constant throttle, rpm and exhaust system pressure, while the short drive would be fluctuating and therefore possibly allow for ambient air to enter the exhaust stream from a leak.
One thing to think about here is your 170 m trip was only 1 event. Some of these codes require more than 1 event to trigger a code. In other words when start car each time is an event.
The "event" thing is something I was not aware of. It makes sense. I drive about 4 miles one way and park it for a while. Then a couple of hours later, I drive back. I do this twice a day and notice the code pops up on the second drive or return trip. The 170 mile trip was split into several starts, but basically 2 runs of about 1/2 and 1/2. I'm going to pay closer attention to this "2 event" deal from now on. Thanks for the heads up!
Most commonly caused by a leak in or near where the Y-pipe joins the primary CATs.
Mine was a crack in the weld where the flange attaches to the Y-pipe.
This lets air into the exhaust so the downstream sensors detect too much oxygen and cause the error.
You won't hear any change in the sound of the exhaust but it's pretty obvious when you have her up on a ramp and idling.
Mine was fixed with a new Y-pipe.
Did this 3 weeks ago, paid 200 at a local muffler shop. Code 0420 and 0430 cleared within 48 hours with no intervention.
Last edited by tealchief; Jan 4, 2025 at 12:53 PM.
Thanks. I'll get it up on my hoist soon. I have a 2002 LS as well. It's actually my brother's car now. It has a pretty good leak at the flange (corrosion). I'm wondering when that one will have this code. I did try to patch it up with some epoxy and mesh. Kind of a hack job, temp fix. Its tight to work in that area and I didn't want to get into it further at the time. Once I have my 2004 LS up on the hoist, I'll determine the situation and possibly even weld it up. It may be time for some cutting and splicing.
Alextv. Where did you get the info on the "Events". I would like to read up on that.
This was years ago and I can't remember where I read it but do remember it was correct for code produced that didn't happen right away. I think it was the evap problem then. I have the full manuals and could have read it there but not sure. I do remember on my Tundra the air pump that only works on start up to purge gases will force limp mode and when clear code I think it took 3 starts before code would come back and the forum was talking about that.
Thank you for the reply. I use a blue driver scan tool that utilized my cell phone for readout. It is small, inexpensive and works well. I have other scan tools, but I like this one for its size. I can easily leave it in the car, and it is hidden under the steering column. That is nice for not having to reach under the dash to connect it multiple times, since it does not interfere with normal vehicle functions while connected. That's a plus for chasing this problem, due to the multiple resets. It also has a mileage logging feature that allows me to enter the mileage at reset. I also have a Tundra. 2007 SC, SB, 5.7L, rear drive only. It came with the TRD exhaust, buckets, console and shifter but no towing features like trans temp & cooler, hitch or trailer brake. It is a "Sport Package" so has a more cosmetic rear bumper than the standard step one. I did install a class 3 hitch and brake. I haven't got around to the trans cooler and temp ga yet, although I do have the parts. I have only had since new in 2007. I didn't want to hurry
Thank you for the reply. I use a blue driver scan tool that utilized my cell phone for readout. It is small, inexpensive and works well. I have other scan tools, but I like this one for its size. I can easily leave it in the car, and it is hidden under the steering column. That is nice for not having to reach under the dash to connect it multiple times, since it does not interfere with normal vehicle functions while connected. That's a plus for chasing this problem, due to the multiple resets. It also has a mileage logging feature that allows me to enter the mileage at reset. I also have a Tundra. 2007 SC, SB, 5.7L, rear drive only. It came with the TRD exhaust, buckets, console and shifter but no towing features like trans temp & cooler, hitch or trailer brake. It is a "Sport Package" so has a more cosmetic rear bumper than the standard step one. I did install a class 3 hitch and brake. I haven't got around to the trans cooler and temp ga yet, although I do have the parts. I have only had since new in 2007. I didn't want to hurry
My Tundra 5.7 is 2008 and there was a class action lawsuit over air pump that forced Toyota to extend warranty I think 10yr 100 or 150k miles. Water gets in and rusts valve and only operates at startup and if not working will put into limp mode. Ridiculous. Has yours been replaced?
This is the first I have heard of this. I wonder if the 2007 model year was somehow not included. I'm going to check now. My truck only has 40 K on it, but I don't see low miles as something that would be less subject to corrosion. The age would be a greater factor, in my opinion. Thanks for the heads up!
This is the first I have heard of this. I wonder if the 2007 model year was somehow not included. I'm going to check now. My truck only has 40 K on it, but I don't see low miles as something that would be less subject to corrosion. The age would be a greater factor, in my opinion. Thanks for the heads up!
2007 was the start of it and that is what prompted the lawsuit. If it hasn't happened to yours it will. Mine is garaged and did it. You probably don't remember but Toyota notices were sent to all 2007 up about the warranty coverage increase. Time would have ended that for you. I heard people taking them apart and fixing and not sure if there is any way to bypass this ridiculous few second check. Saw warranty claim on mine and just under 3k for both so not cheap. Think they are right there at wheel well and that is how water gets in with wet air. First started in humid climates like Florida then found rain cause in other states like me in NC. Of course they would not fix unless code was there so when I cleared I had to wait several events for it to come back before carrying to dealer.