Thank you all for the advice! I found a good machine shop an hour and a half away, Texas Engine Machine, that can do the machining for a new guide and seat. They will also resurface both heads. So far that is all they will do for $650; I believe a full valve job would have been $1500-$2000. My plan for now is have them make sure the head is all good, put everything back together and pray it works. Most of the valve cap shims are with the correct valves, only a few got mixed up so I will have to switch them around until I find the right one except for the new valve, which I can have the machine shop do that if a new shim with some at home sanding does not work.

Since I am reusing all the old valves, is it ok to skip work like valve lapping and put everything back together? I can do the valve lapping myself if that is the only thing necessary. Or should I just pay the extra money and have the machine shop do the entire valve job for me? At this point just want to get the car back on the road, so if only putting everything back to where it was will work I am fine with that.

As for the cylinder with the bent valve, there was a small dent on the top of the piston (picture included) however I did not see any damage on the cylinder wall, which I will go back to make sure of when I clean the cylinders and block surface. Would something that small cause any issues?

 

Valve lapping is easy you can do it yourself, put a piece of vacuum line on the end of the valve and onto a bit driver on your drill. Valve in head lap away with your compound you'll get a perfect seal I actually prefer this to valve grinding. Unless the valves are pitted or have other damage of course.
What does this mean? Sand the shim down? Don't do that it will take forever for you to get a mirror finish back and the shim will never be flat.

Dent in the piston won't cause any issues assuming the ring lands are not cracked or bent.

 

Yeah that is what I meant, but I see how that may not be ideal. I have a closer machine shop I can probably go to and have them change the shim thickness as needed.

For the cylinder head resurfacing, will I need a thicker head gasket? So far I am hoping there isn't any warpage, which would mean the machine shop can take off a negligible amount from the surface. If there is warpage though, I read online that I will need a thicker head gasket since there is a difference in the compression ratio. If this is the case, do you know where I can find a thicker head gasket?

 

I've never seen a thicker head gasket for this engine or most any Toyota/Lexus engine. Don't know specs for acceptable warping on the 4.3 V8 but other Toyota engines I've dealt with were 0.05 mm for the block 0.10 mm for the cylinder head this is nearly zero. Anything outside of that and you're supposed to replace the block or heads if you machine a head out of spec you are raising compression and messing with camshaft timing, how much depends on material removed.

 

Wow!
I'm not second-guessing your post I'm just surprised the block tolerance is so low.
.05mm is barely under .002" (two-thousandths of an inch) .0019" to be exact. How is a tolerance so small measured on a block?

 

With a precision straight edge on a cleaned up and straight head/block you won't be able to slip in even the smallest feeler gauge. Also light won't leak through doing a flashlight test. I know the spec is just slightly above zero it also surprised me first time I saw the tolerance.

 

If the engine was running fine prior to the issue with the valve and guide, then it shouldn't take much to clean up the heads. Typically .005-.007 or less would clean up a head that hasn't been overheated. It's about .007 to drop the chamber a cc in a pent roof 4V head and that amount is inconsequential to any compression change. Stock head gaskets are perfectly fine to use when going back together with it. A high performance or race engine, these numbers are more critical along with many other things.

 

Thank you again to everyone for the help so far. Got the heads resurfaced and the valve guide and seat replaced at a machine shop. Also got most of my parts in and plan to finish this up by the new years day.

One issue I have now is cleaning the block. I took a pass at it today with some brakeclean and a red scotch brite pad, and there is a lot of debris falling into the oil and coolant passageways. Would that be an issue? It is mostly just dirt and left over head gasket material. If it would be an issue, is there a way for me to know which are oil and which are coolant passages? I can pour oil/water down each respective passageway and drain the fluid, I think a couple of passes would be able to get rid of most of the debris.

 

Don't clean the block except near the deck just enough to be able to put the engine together. Once assembled then clean.